I changed out the CCTs today and the bike will not hold rpms. I will rev it up to 5000 rpm and hold the throttle and it will lose rpm and it sounds like the engine is under load when it does this. All my fuel and air lines are hooked up properly, I triple checked them. Could the CCT's be to tight?

 

I doubt that the ccts are too tight, but figure that at tdc compression they should be tightened by hand. As for further investigation, I would suggest checking timing. It is possible that if you weren't at tdc compression, your cam chain hopped timing. I had this happen to me when I was told by someone that it couldn't jump timing. It made a distinct ratcheting sound.

 

I'm 99.99% sure I was at TDC when I pulled the old ones. I zip tied the cam chain onto the cam sprocket before I pulled the old ones and there was no movement and when I pulled the front one there was no "click". When the pistons were TDC I tightened the tensioner by hand until I could turn it no more, then tightened a 1/4 turn with a wrench and tightened down the lock nut.

 

I'd try backing off that 1/4 and see what happens...

 

I tightened mine by hand then backed off 1/4 turn and haven't touched them since... done this on two motors. Losing RPM is not likely your tensioners though. Most likely a failing coil, provided you maintained your timing as you explained.

 

Also the choke **** will not stay out on its own now, I have to hold it out to start it and if I let it go its goes in to the half way point. But once the bike will run without choke it idles fine, a little lower rpm than before but it will still idle without the choke on.

 

There's an adjustment nut on the choke (under rubber) for tension.

 

Well, if you ziptied them, they probably didn't move. I would try loosening them, and then check to make sure that you have the spark plug wires seated all the way (assuming that you pulled these to remove the valve covers). keep trying!

 

If they are too tight you'd notice it by just turning the motor over with the starter. I was a bit agressive with tightening them down when I did mine... I noticed as soon as I spun the motor with the starter that it sounded like it was turning slower.... backed them off 1/4 turn each and have been happy ever since...

J.

 

I backed off the CCTs by half a turn each and the problem is still there. It cranks over at normal speed. I checked the plug boots and they are all the way on. Would an air shortage to the engine create these symptoms? I'm going to pull the tank and go into the air box to make sure nothing is there.

 

check your petcock hose connections. There is a pic in the knowledge base, the bottom fitting shoud NOT have anything connected to it - start there.

 

I only disconnected the one fuel line, I just unbolted the tank, unhooked the fuel line that goes to the throttle side and just flipped the tank upside down and set it on a chair. I checked all the other lines and non of them became disconnected.

I pulled the air filter and ran it and it did the same thing. I pulled the air box and can't find any disconnected lines. I'm starting to lean towards the timing on the front cylinder. It starts fine and doesn't miss at all when I rev it up but just seems like the engine is under alot of load and when I hold the throttle steady it just loses revs.

 

I don't know if this was part of the problem but I never hooked up the fuel tank wire connection to the harness when I ran it up, as far as I know that is only for the low fuel light so I didn't bother with it when I ran it up. Also I just did the superbike bar mod the other day as well but can't see any connection between that and the current problems.

I've been reading alot on VTR1000.org and it seems that these kind of problems occur when the timing is 180 degrees out, what are the chances that this has happened?

 

Did you rotate the engine 450 degrees after changing the rear and before removing the front CCT?

 

Yes I did, I rotated the engine 450 degrees counterclockwise to the FT mark before I pulled the front CCT.

 

recheck the hoses:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=22048

if that does not work, then recheck the valve timing. It is a pain, but what else could it be?

 

I've triple checked the hoses hoping to find one misconnected but no luck, looks like I will have to check the timing.

 

oh well, maybe this is a good time to check the valve clearances as well. Not all that hard to check them, a bit more involved if any shims need to be replaced.

 

Just a little lower after the bike is warm? How else does it run? all is fine throughout the rev range? A little lower? eg it used to be 1200rpm and now its 1000?
If you ziptied the chain to the sprocket then it did not move. If you hear no particularly odd noises when it is running, then your tension is probably close to being right (WAY oversimplified, but i assume you followed the adjustment recommendations)
raise the idle adjustment a bit and ride the bike. Any screw ups - timing or the fuel valve vacuum line are going to become apparent due to poor ridability under load.
Obviously the choke tensioner got a little loose, so tighten that a smidge.

 

The bike idles around 750 now, and it will stall if you take the choke off to soon, it did idle at 1100 before. When I rev it up it doesn't miss but as soon as I stop twisting the throttle and hold it steady the rpms start dropping like the engine is under alot of load.
The bike sounds exactly the same now as it did before the cct's, no valve train noise at all.

 

Just wondering if this could be a fuel issue? Would having the petcock upside down for 6 hours screws something up. It seems to backfire and stumble at 5000rpm. And it is not PVLIR! I made sure of that!

 

Sounds like you may have air in a fuel line...

 

Thanks to everyone who responded but as of right now I am certain is crisis averted. I reassembled the bike tonight, took it outside and let it idle for 20 min, revved it up to close to redline a couple time and it seem to be running well. I won't be %100 sure until I can drive it. (Waiting on SS lines due to superbike bar mod), But now my biggest problem is that the choke won't stay out on its own but that can be another night. Time to replace the air filter and plugs and drive it like I stole it!

 

My choke has never stayed out. What's up with that?

 

See post #7

 

That is not real good for the engine - gets real hot, no air flow to cool it. The thud-thud-thud stresses the cam chains too.

 

Not completely lubricated while idling on the sidestand as well... Avoid that long sessions...

 

I wasn't to worried about the heat, it was only about 40F here whnen I did it and the temp gauge only went up to the 1/4 mark. I would think that stop and go traffic on a warm day would be a lot harder on the engine than that

 

Probably, but then again the bike isn't leaned over then, and has oil pressure up, with an decent oil film in all needed places...