New Guy Intro
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Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 283
From: Dallas, TX
I got my Polaris brass choke parts in the mail today so I put on all my warm clothes and made beeline to the shop. I used a battery powered hand drill to make modifications to both parts taking extra care. Those things were $13 each so I didn't rush things. I now have a working choke set. Baby Steps.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 283
From: Dallas, TX
It's kind of a horror movie of motorcycle ownership. It will get better. It is already a shadow of its former self.
Back in the day I used to work at a BMW dealership. We used to see a few rod bearing failures in the old BMW air heads. It was caused by riders lugging the engines. The big twins wanted to spin but people would run them hard around town, getting into top gear at 30mph. Then they would screw it on and the rods would jerk the crank around. This is REALLY hard on a big engine.
Back in the day I used to work at a BMW dealership. We used to see a few rod bearing failures in the old BMW air heads. It was caused by riders lugging the engines. The big twins wanted to spin but people would run them hard around town, getting into top gear at 30mph. Then they would screw it on and the rods would jerk the crank around. This is REALLY hard on a big engine.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,806
From: Atlanta, GA
It's kind of a horror movie of motorcycle ownership. It will get better. It is already a shadow of its former self.
Back in the day I used to work at a BMW dealership. We used to see a few rod bearing failures in the old BMW air heads. It was caused by riders lugging the engines. The big twins wanted to spin but people would run them hard around town, getting into top gear at 30mph. Then they would screw it on and the rods would jerk the crank around. This is REALLY hard on a big engine.
Back in the day I used to work at a BMW dealership. We used to see a few rod bearing failures in the old BMW air heads. It was caused by riders lugging the engines. The big twins wanted to spin but people would run them hard around town, getting into top gear at 30mph. Then they would screw it on and the rods would jerk the crank around. This is REALLY hard on a big engine.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 283
From: Dallas, TX
It's getting there. The tear down has commenced in earnest. I have decided to remove as much from the engine before I drop it out of the frame both for ease of handling and because it all has to come out anyway. It is easier for me to strip it while it is still captive in the frame. All the parts are bagged and labeled.
I am having an issue with the flywheel. My rattle gun won't budge it. I only have 120 psi. I think I need 150 or better to get it off.
I am having an issue with the flywheel. My rattle gun won't budge it. I only have 120 psi. I think I need 150 or better to get it off.
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,481
From: Pittsburgh
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,510
Are you wanting to get into compressor and air line setup, or are you simply wanting an alternative method to get the bolt off?
On one of my old cars, before i had air tools, i had to get the crank pulley off, so i set up a breaker bar with a long piece of pipe on it angled down to touch the floor. One bunp of the starter and the bolt came loose... I'm not neccessarily recommending this method, just saying i've done it before.
What size compressor do you have (tank/hp)? What size air lines? Which fittings, which impact gun? All these things are a factor in how well the system will function.
I personally have an american made true 5hp compressor with 3/8 air lines and milton type V high flow fittings. I use a craftsman professional impact.
You would be amazed just how much difference it makes switching to the milton type v high flow fittings. If i remember right they have about 30% more airflow do to using a much thinner wall. It really helps with rotary tools too, like grinders/buffers.
James
On one of my old cars, before i had air tools, i had to get the crank pulley off, so i set up a breaker bar with a long piece of pipe on it angled down to touch the floor. One bunp of the starter and the bolt came loose... I'm not neccessarily recommending this method, just saying i've done it before.
What size compressor do you have (tank/hp)? What size air lines? Which fittings, which impact gun? All these things are a factor in how well the system will function.
I personally have an american made true 5hp compressor with 3/8 air lines and milton type V high flow fittings. I use a craftsman professional impact.
You would be amazed just how much difference it makes switching to the milton type v high flow fittings. If i remember right they have about 30% more airflow do to using a much thinner wall. It really helps with rotary tools too, like grinders/buffers.
James
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 283
From: Dallas, TX
Are you wanting to get into compressor and air line setup, or are you simply wanting an alternative method to get the bolt off?
On one of my old cars, before i had air tools, i had to get the crank pulley off, so i set up a breaker bar with a long piece of pipe on it angled down to touch the floor. One bunp of the starter and the bolt came loose... I'm not neccessarily recommending this method, just saying i've done it before.
What size compressor do you have (tank/hp)? What size air lines? Which fittings, which impact gun? All these things are a factor in how well the system will function.
I personally have an american made true 5hp compressor with 3/8 air lines and milton type V high flow fittings. I use a craftsman professional impact.
You would be amazed just how much difference it makes switching to the milton type v high flow fittings. If i remember right they have about 30% more airflow do to using a much thinner wall. It really helps with rotary tools too, like grinders/buffers.
James
On one of my old cars, before i had air tools, i had to get the crank pulley off, so i set up a breaker bar with a long piece of pipe on it angled down to touch the floor. One bunp of the starter and the bolt came loose... I'm not neccessarily recommending this method, just saying i've done it before.
What size compressor do you have (tank/hp)? What size air lines? Which fittings, which impact gun? All these things are a factor in how well the system will function.
I personally have an american made true 5hp compressor with 3/8 air lines and milton type V high flow fittings. I use a craftsman professional impact.
You would be amazed just how much difference it makes switching to the milton type v high flow fittings. If i remember right they have about 30% more airflow do to using a much thinner wall. It really helps with rotary tools too, like grinders/buffers.
James
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