Does the 1998 Super Hawk shift hard into second gear ?
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Squid
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 41
Does the 1998 Super Hawk shift hard into second gear ?
Hey guys I just bought a Super Hawk and it seems to shift hard into second gear is that common for this bike ?
Last edited by Rocket Rider; Aug 26, 2016 at 03:07 PM.
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Remove the shifter from the pivot pin and clean, lube reinstall, lube the two ball joints
Make sure the "change Arm" is tight on the shift shaft.
See if you get a better feel.
New shifter from DMr and a Factory Pro shift star and arm with detent is a good option as well.
Last edited by E.Marquez; Aug 26, 2016 at 05:06 PM.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Does it?
Clunk like dropping a hammer in the case. Mine does that in first or second.
I figured it was because Its a big older bike and neutral is in there.
But dont take me for it Ive had the bike under a month. A lot of my buddies bikes made noise going in first or second.
I figured it was because Its a big older bike and neutral is in there.
But dont take me for it Ive had the bike under a month. A lot of my buddies bikes made noise going in first or second.
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Neutral to first is a pretty good clunk 1st to 2nd much less so, pretty much a standard shift so long as you shift it with some authority this is not a $40,000 duc with an electronic shift you can't just ease it into gear or toe tap the shifter
Thread Starter
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Squid
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 41
Cool, maybe it's just because it's an older bike. I sold my 2012 Hayabusa so I'm sure that bike would shift different. I'm looking to eventually buy a BMW 1000RR but man I really like the way this SuperHawk handles in the Twistes and not to mention I picked it up for $2,500
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Thanks for the info! I got a fast story on that a maniac tried to ram me and I had to stop quick somehow bunged up the shifter. First was super hard. laid it down after another panic stop and shifts great! dunno why. Either way bad luck then some. just thought yall would get a laugh outta that.
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,312
From: Brookfield, WI
If you haven't done so, sync the carbs and then adjust the idle. If you don't know how to sync the carbs, look up the "Two Bottle" method. It's very cheap and rather simple to accomplish. Also, if you haven't already, you can download the service manual here in the Knowledge Base.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; Aug 28, 2016 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Forgot to ad service to manual
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,544
From: New South Wales Australia
To help with gear changes you can load up the gear lever shaft that your gear lever bolts to.
The one that comes out of the engine. Remove the gear lever rod from it , rotate it towards the rear of the engine , hold it in that position and refit the rod. Makes for a shorter more positive action and less chance of a clunk as the shifting is a lot more positive. Did that to my bike years ago and no problems.
The one that comes out of the engine. Remove the gear lever rod from it , rotate it towards the rear of the engine , hold it in that position and refit the rod. Makes for a shorter more positive action and less chance of a clunk as the shifting is a lot more positive. Did that to my bike years ago and no problems.
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
To help with gear changes you can load up the gear lever shaft that your gear lever bolts to.
The one that comes out of the engine. Remove the gear lever rod from it , rotate it towards the rear of the engine , hold it in that position and refit the rod. Makes for a shorter more positive action and less chance of a clunk as the shifting is a lot more positive. Did that to my bike years ago and no problems.
The one that comes out of the engine. Remove the gear lever rod from it , rotate it towards the rear of the engine , hold it in that position and refit the rod. Makes for a shorter more positive action and less chance of a clunk as the shifting is a lot more positive. Did that to my bike years ago and no problems.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ng-hawk-10161/
Doing the short shifter mod will make the lever movement shorter, but will increase the force needed to shift.
Less angle on arm = shorter travel = more force needed.
If you find that is not a distractor to you then it's a great Mod.
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