Shorter shifting 'Hawk
12-19-2006, 05:59 PM
#1
Administrator
World Champion
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
Shorter shifting 'Hawk
For those of you wanting to get better shifting with shorter throws, try the following:
* Loosen the adjusters on the link and extend it out about 4-5 threads. This will move the shifter in the downward direction. Leave it loose.
* Now loosen and remove the shifter arm bolt and remove and replace the arm exactly ONE spline in the clockwise direction. Install and tighten the shifter arm bolt.
* Adjust the shift lever to your liking and tighten the two locknuts.
What this does is gives you less lever travel due to the increased angle of the shifter arm. It works great at the track and street with or without the clutch.
* Loosen the adjusters on the link and extend it out about 4-5 threads. This will move the shifter in the downward direction. Leave it loose.
* Now loosen and remove the shifter arm bolt and remove and replace the arm exactly ONE spline in the clockwise direction. Install and tighten the shifter arm bolt.
* Adjust the shift lever to your liking and tighten the two locknuts.
What this does is gives you less lever travel due to the increased angle of the shifter arm. It works great at the track and street with or without the clutch.
12-20-2006, 03:33 AM
#2
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast, Australia
Posts: 963
Man, I have had a couple of arguments about this!!
Non-believers telling me it can't work. It is hard to explain, until you see it work on a bike. My physics is not what it used to be. LOL
Non-believers telling me it can't work. It is hard to explain, until you see it work on a bike. My physics is not what it used to be. LOL
12-21-2006, 07:15 PM
#5
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast, Australia
Posts: 963
Tip no. 2 is to re-bush the pivot for the shifter. Lots of slop in there you can take out too.
I thought these bits on my bike were worn out when I got it, so I went to Honda and looked at a new bike and it was the same! Just cheap components. I am used to dirt bikes that have no likages at all, so it felt terrible to me.
These mods sort it out nicely and are cheap to do.
02-07-2007, 07:37 PM
#8
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 4,138
I did this mod while I was going through my bike. It looks like it will do a better job of clearing the toes of my riding boots. I always feel like such a duck with my toes stuck out instead of tucked in on the pegs.
02-08-2007, 11:19 AM
#9
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 158
For those of you wanting to get better shifting with shorter throws, try the following:
* Loosen the adjusters on the link and extend it out about 4-5 threads. This will move the shifter in the downward direction. Leave it loose.
* Now loosen and remove the shifter arm bolt and remove and replace the arm exactly ONE spline in the clockwise direction. Install and tighten the shifter arm bolt.
* Adjust the shift lever to your liking and tighten the two locknuts.
What this does is gives you less lever travel due to the increased angle of the shifter arm. It works great at the track and street with or without the clutch.
* Loosen the adjusters on the link and extend it out about 4-5 threads. This will move the shifter in the downward direction. Leave it loose.
* Now loosen and remove the shifter arm bolt and remove and replace the arm exactly ONE spline in the clockwise direction. Install and tighten the shifter arm bolt.
* Adjust the shift lever to your liking and tighten the two locknuts.
What this does is gives you less lever travel due to the increased angle of the shifter arm. It works great at the track and street with or without the clutch.
02-08-2007, 02:55 PM
#10
Administrator
World Champion
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
It's actually the adjustable shifting rod. It connects the shift lever to the arm attached to the shift shaft. There's (2) 10mm lock nuts on there. Loosen them and then turn the rod to adjust.
02-08-2007, 07:39 PM
#12
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
Works great, did it years ago after reading a post on RLZ.
To add on e more tip, you can also improve the shifting even more by adding the FactoryPro Shift Detent kits. Really makes the gears pop solid when shifting. The shift detent are is a piece of crap on the stock setip compared the the FactoryPro Roller bearing Shift Detent Arm.
Sorry, no pics of the stock and FactoryPro arms, did this mod four or five years ago.
To add on e more tip, you can also improve the shifting even more by adding the FactoryPro Shift Detent kits. Really makes the gears pop solid when shifting. The shift detent are is a piece of crap on the stock setip compared the the FactoryPro Roller bearing Shift Detent Arm.
Sorry, no pics of the stock and FactoryPro arms, did this mod four or five years ago.
11-29-2007, 04:57 AM
#15
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Most likely not, the shortening of the actual linkage here is a matter of a few mm's only... The main purpose isn't making the link shorter, it's changing the angle, wich changes the precision of the lever...
A better idea is as shayne suggested, I have tried it...
Tighten up the original lever with a shim on the lever axle to remove play, and possibly give it a new bushing if needed, then use heim joints...
A better idea is as shayne suggested, I have tried it...
Tighten up the original lever with a shim on the lever axle to remove play, and possibly give it a new bushing if needed, then use heim joints...
11-29-2007, 06:52 PM
#16
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,116
My tip here would be to install heim joints on the end of your shift rod while you are at it. The ball and cup joints that Honda use have a fair bit of play in them even from new. A heim joint like Yamaha use on the R1 is a LOT better. Your local engineering supply shop should be able to supply them with left & right hand threads. I can buy a pair of them here for $40 so should be even a bit cheaper for you. A pair of genuine Yamaha dust boots finishes it off nicely.
Tip no. 2 is to re-bush the pivot for the shifter. Lots of slop in there you can take out too.
I thought these bits on my bike were worn out when I got it, so I went to Honda and looked at a new bike and it was the same! Just cheap components. I am used to dirt bikes that have no likages at all, so it felt terrible to me.
These mods sort it out nicely and are cheap to do.
Tip no. 2 is to re-bush the pivot for the shifter. Lots of slop in there you can take out too.
I thought these bits on my bike were worn out when I got it, so I went to Honda and looked at a new bike and it was the same! Just cheap components. I am used to dirt bikes that have no likages at all, so it felt terrible to me.
These mods sort it out nicely and are cheap to do.
How did you attach the new heim to the shift lever (the OEM is riveted)? I already lenghtened my lever for mty Vario adjustable pegs & did the linkage "adjustment". Real thin shim stock is required instead of re-bushing the lever pivot.
12-20-2007, 03:55 AM
#17
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Tightened things down adding a touch of thread locker to the nut. Ground the head off the fastener, and all excess off after the nut. Great fit, will never come loose. And if I ever want to replace a part of the system, it's as easy as replacing the fastener. ($0.35)
Last edited by E.Marquez; 01-11-2009 at 12:51 PM.
09-12-2008, 12:59 PM
#18
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: moncton nb canada
Posts: 1,269
i've been doing this to all my bikes for years. i usually change it by two splines. the throw isn't being shortened, just moved. it feels better because your upshifts are much more "sure".
i've never figured out why the bike manus put the levers so high. it's rediculous.
i've never figured out why the bike manus put the levers so high. it's rediculous.
Last edited by finepooch; 09-13-2008 at 07:03 AM.
09-20-2008, 09:29 PM
#20
do all that but make the gears backwards. to where you are shifting down to grab a higher gear instead of pulling up. it makes it a hell of alot better. this is how my race bike is set up. i just think it is easier to tap down then pulling it up. just my 2 cents anyways...
10-11-2009, 09:56 AM
#21
Member
Squid
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 38
My SH is the worst shifting bike 1st to 2nd gear that I have ever had. My CBR954RR was almost as bad but I found that pre-loading the shifter before the shift let it shift smoothly without any mods. I will do the mod in Spring but there is still a few weeks of nice riding weather here in Victoria. Sunny and 13 degrees right now!
11-06-2009, 04:23 PM
#23
Its A fire, Its A Storm!
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 36
Ok Adjusted the arm 1 turn clockwise and went for a test ride... Came back and did an adjustment on the rod to suit my Foot/boot and it is GREAT, very happy!! Cheers for the tip, Tony
11-06-2009, 09:30 PM
#24
Who are you?
SuperSport
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 731
Did the mod too, using my method *cough*, and it does seem to be a little better.
Just a tip, the throw is indeed shorter, however you need more force to make up for that. If you don't upshift hard enough, it will simply pop out of gear.
Just a tip, the throw is indeed shorter, however you need more force to make up for that. If you don't upshift hard enough, it will simply pop out of gear.
Last edited by Just_Nick; 12-24-2009 at 08:41 PM.
12-23-2011, 07:55 PM
#26
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
Did this on two SH's today and I must admit, noticeably different. It feels Great! Thanks Hawkrider! Also, for somereason I can't access your 996 site on my tablet or phone, any advice? I like to use the tab in the garage while working for instructions and pic reference.
08-25-2012, 12:48 PM
#28
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 582
For those of you wanting to get better shifting with shorter throws, try the following:
* Loosen the adjusters on the link and extend it out about 4-5 threads. This will move the shifter in the downward direction. Leave it loose.
* Now loosen and remove the shifter arm bolt and remove and replace the arm exactly ONE spline in the clockwise direction. Install and tighten the shifter arm bolt.
* Adjust the shift lever to your liking and tighten the two locknuts.
What this does is gives you less lever travel due to the increased angle of the shifter arm. It works great at the track and street with or without the clutch.
* Loosen the adjusters on the link and extend it out about 4-5 threads. This will move the shifter in the downward direction. Leave it loose.
* Now loosen and remove the shifter arm bolt and remove and replace the arm exactly ONE spline in the clockwise direction. Install and tighten the shifter arm bolt.
* Adjust the shift lever to your liking and tighten the two locknuts.
What this does is gives you less lever travel due to the increased angle of the shifter arm. It works great at the track and street with or without the clutch.
08-25-2012, 01:39 PM
#29
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Then you move the splined arm, and set the pedal to where you want it, and lock it...
08-25-2012, 04:11 PM
#30
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 582
Yes, you can adjust it without removing the shifter... You loosen the locknuts, and then spin the threaded rod... That makes it longer... So yeah, 4-5 goes for both ends, as both spin together... the whole point of it is to be able to adjust the shifter position...
Then you move the splined arm, and set the pedal to where you want it, and lock it...
Then you move the splined arm, and set the pedal to where you want it, and lock it...
