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Bought a 2004...have a look

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Old 11-01-2011, 09:33 AM
  #31  
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Also. Looking at your picture. You could do with some fresh brake fluid!
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:40 AM
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Well if you do get stuck there are a couple people in the bay area that are kind of good at getting them to run well......
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:01 PM
  #33  
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Yep...did all that. Made my own carb sync too.
See my post in the Tech area.
Shes runs great!

I may adjust the pilot's 1/4 turn in -with all the California stuff removed and capped she may be rich -only a tad though. With PAIR removed and blocked sometimes I will get a pop once in a while on deceleration from a high rpm.
Would coming in 1/8 to a 1/4 on the pilot screws take care of this?
The manual says 2 1/2 turns out on 49 state bikes and 3 turns out on CA bikes.

She's so close it's hard for me to know. The previous owner installed a jet kit and he doesn't know what he used. So, I called the shop where it was done and they can't remember which one it was. They think dynojet.

I will pull the plugs tomorrow.

Where can I get that tool?

+1 on the brake fluid change . I am waiting for Galfer lines though.

EDIT:

INITIAL OPENING of Pilot screw:
2 3/4 turns for 49 State
3 turns for Ca models.

Ya. I am just a tad rich after capping the purve control valve intake to the carbs- from the the carbon can. The bike is used to sucking a little air and fuel vapor into a small carb. port while running.
It's very close though. Will know when I pull plugs.

Last edited by Matt_Hawk; 11-02-2011 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:37 PM
  #34  
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Mixture screw adjustment. Really the only easy way to make mixture screw adjustments is to remove the carbs some what? ieull from carb boots, tilt to one side and make adjustment. Once you have done it a few times (like you will on owning this bike) you can do it very quickly.
I will say one thing, most people tend to jet these bikes to rich! not to lean.

I would pull the carbs and see whats inside first?

Also don't forget to adjust TPS!
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:41 PM
  #35  
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After installing 48 pilot jets (my main jets are stock, with stock needles shimmed .020"), I initially adjusted the pilot screws 2 3/4 out. It ran fine at sea level, but wouldn't idle above 2000 feet. So I set them at 2 1/2 out, and it runs perfectly up to 6000 feet, with very occasional carb farts and idle stalls at sea level.

A carb disassembly and cleaning about once a year helps a lot as well, even with good gas.

A Craftsman 18mm spark plug socket fits into the plug recess great. My Snap-on, which I've had for 30 years, is a tight fit.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:49 PM
  #36  
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Thanks...but I am not about to touch my carbs just yet without thoroughly understanding them.

There are 3circuits:

1) Idle
2) Pilot
3) Mains

I would like to know how the needles and shims and holes in the slides and pilot and main jets all work in relation to one another.

I am wondering if I can just buy the tool and not have to take the carbs out to adjust mixture?

There's a lot to go wrong if I start to monkey with it- while its so close to a perfect tune.

Time to do some more research on the forums.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:55 PM
  #37  
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Like I said....there are people in your area that actually do understand how a carb really works.....

So what part of the bay area are you located in?
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Old 11-02-2011, 10:02 PM
  #38  
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Pretty far South in San Luis Obispo area.

Ah..this is what I may need:
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/MO...TOOL-WITH-BITS

It has that d shaped bit for these Keihins.

EDIT:

Ah..The power of the internet.
This is a great article on carbs.
http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm

and Keihin:
http://www.keihin-us.com/am/_media/pdf/slide_valve.pdf

Does it ring true on our 48mm Keihins?

Last edited by Matt_Hawk; 11-02-2011 at 10:52 PM.
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