General Discussion Anything SuperHawk Related

Bike stands for quick lift

Old 11-05-2017, 02:21 AM
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Bike stands for quick lift

I'm looking for a set of stands for quick lifting of the bike. I'm currently using a set that is adequate, but I like the ones that have a particular rod or spot on the rear to grab on to as opposed to using one that allows for sliding of the swingarm.
I just found a picture of a stand using the mid section, not sure what exactly tho, the swingarm joint I think.

***Bonus question ha:
Quick question about alternator, If I'm needing to replace alternator bc bike keeps dying and draining battery, should I only need to replace the stator?


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Old 11-05-2017, 05:56 AM
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The stand in the photo os an ABBA stand. Yes it does lift from the swing arm.
Most likely the R/R is shot. If you have a multi meter, that can be confirmed.
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:16 AM
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Alternator? Do tell.
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:39 AM
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If you have the equipment and skill (only low level needed), you can make your own Abba copy. The copy uses engine mount points to lift. Here are the plans.
Here's the one I made. Works great, but is a little fiddly in use. Once up, it's very solid.



Plans
Home made ABBA type paddock stand dimensions and pics - VTR1000.ORG
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by xeris View Post
The stand in the photo os an ABBA stand. Yes it does lift from the swing arm.
Most likely the R/R is shot. If you have a multi meter, that can be confirmed.

Thx but what is the R/R, I have zero idea what you mean by that, nor what all that entails if it is the case.. I've been thru a few batteries.

and what do you think Wolverine means by that question? directed at who, you or me haha?
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Old 11-05-2017, 07:50 AM
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R/R is the Regulator Rectifier. It is located under the right hand side of the seat cowling. Their failure is a common problem with Super Hawks, and many other bikes. Use the search function on this site and you'll find more information than you probably want to know. I replaced mine a few years ago with a complete set up (FH020AA Mosfet Super Kit) from Roadstercycle.com. But, there are a myriad of suppliers out there in web world. It solved all my charging gremlins.
I think Wolverine might be Ha, Ha'ing you. If we can't laugh, we'll go insane.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:09 AM
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R/R is regulator/rectifier
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by whatthefnck View Post
Thx but what is the R/R, I have zero idea what you mean by that, nor what all that entails if it is the case.. I've been thru a few batteries.

and what do you think Wolverine means by that question? directed at who, you or me haha?
I wanted to hear details about the alternator on your Hawk.

Most bikes DO NOT have alternators. The startor and r/r are your charging system. Please do your research before diving in to a swap. It's kinda important that you are knowledgeable and get everything right for your and your bikes safety.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:13 PM
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In my experience, every other guy I talk to who simply had a bad RR took it to the shop and the immediately "replaced" the stator. I guess maybe they did or maybe not but RRs die way more frequently than stators. The nice thing for them is that most owners cant check to see if they actually did it.
I'd bet the farm (someone else's farm) that its just the RR. Do a quick search there is a ton of info on here on it.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:04 PM
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thx all you guys. can the r/r go bad from impact or collision? if the bike will fire up when usine starter fluid, would that also be a symptom of bad r/r? and I've had few times when out riding i'm stopped at a light and the bike dies. sometimes it'll fire back up, sometimes not. sometimes it'll start up with a push start, sometimes not. a lot of sometimes in there yes lol. but i'm learning so much from this site and you experienced guys, its great.
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Old 11-07-2017, 03:21 AM
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I've had few times when out riding i'm stopped at a light and the bike dies
Sounds like carb fart - raise the idle to 1200 to minmise the chance of it stalling.

Orginal OEM unfinned (self-cooking and battery and electric frying) R/R is a big weakness on early VTRs. If still fitted upgrade to a better later finned version that was fitted from 01-05, or even better still a MOSFET FH type R/R.



Check fuel is flowing and if you have spark - plus firstly check that the vacuum hose is securely attached to the right place on the petcock (horizontally and NOT downwards)

Last edited by Wicky; 11-07-2017 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicky View Post
Sounds like carb fart - raise the idle to 1200 to minmise the chance of it stalling.

Orginal OEM unfinned (self-cooking and battery and electric frying) R/R is a big weakness on early VTRs. If still fitted upgrade to a better later finned version that was fitted from 01-05, or even better still a MOSFET FH type R/R.



Check fuel is flowing and if you have spark - plus firstly check that the vacuum hose is securely attached to the right place on the petcock (horizontally and NOT downwards)
It says **** right on it, so it can't possibly be any good.
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