Weak rear brakes?
10-12-2009, 03:50 PM
#2
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That's probably a good thing. You should rely on your front brakes most of the time anyway. Yeah, you stop quicker using both brakes, and that's what I teach in MSF....blah, blah, blah....but I rarely use the rear on the street and never use it at the track. All you really need the rear brake to do is settle the rear in certain situations.
10-12-2009, 03:55 PM
#3
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Trust me you can lock the rear up... It takes a bit of effort or slippery surface... But it's possible...
But as Greg said... It's only supposed to be used to balance out the bike when clamping down on the front brakes...
If you can hold the rear brake and it holds the bike in a slight incline... Then it works as intended...
But as Greg said... It's only supposed to be used to balance out the bike when clamping down on the front brakes...
If you can hold the rear brake and it holds the bike in a slight incline... Then it works as intended...
10-12-2009, 04:39 PM
#4
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My bike just passed 34k, and I'm still sporting the original rear brake pads with some 80% of the pad material left. Hold the bike on an incline, and stop when I'm riding in the dirt and gravel sections just before getting to the house... otherwise, not so much.
10-12-2009, 10:02 PM
#7
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Your user name leads me to believe you may own a KTM dirt bike. My KTM has a VERY strong rear brake, so if you are used to this then the VTR will feel like it is not working at all.
Unlike a lot of road riders I use the rear brake a lot. Guess it is my dirt bike background. But as mentioned above, it has adequate stopping power, as it is really only used for cornering to assist the bike to turn and to settle the rear end.
Unlike a lot of road riders I use the rear brake a lot. Guess it is my dirt bike background. But as mentioned above, it has adequate stopping power, as it is really only used for cornering to assist the bike to turn and to settle the rear end.
10-13-2009, 01:19 AM
#9
jonesey
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I changed the rear master cylinder on my vtr for a brembo one from an r1, don't ask why i just did cos i could- a lot more power, and will lock the rear wheel on a dry road... it's an easy mod to do, just need to make the holes in the mount 1-2mm larger.
Chris.
Chris.
10-13-2009, 06:49 AM
#12
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Cool. I just wanted to make sure that was all it had. It takes a deliberate effort to get much power out of it.
Been riding it for two years like this so I "get" the front brake thing.
Yeah, started off on KTM's. Great times / good memories.
Once I crashed my buddies new CRF and broke the rear brake pedal. Initially I was a bit freaked, but found quickly that one could maintain a respectable pace with just the front binder and engine braking.
Maybe I'll try the brake line.
Been riding it for two years like this so I "get" the front brake thing.
Yeah, started off on KTM's. Great times / good memories.
Once I crashed my buddies new CRF and broke the rear brake pedal. Initially I was a bit freaked, but found quickly that one could maintain a respectable pace with just the front binder and engine braking.
Maybe I'll try the brake line.
10-13-2009, 06:55 AM
#13
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Location: Delmar NY
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My rear brake sucks too - could be all the chain lube I splash on it when oiling my chain 
Seriously, just put HH pads on front and back. Really REALLY feel them up front. (hear them too interesting Shhhhhhh sound) but the back only seems marginally better. Probably a good thing. In an emergency I don't want to accidentally lock up the rear.
Seriously, just put HH pads on front and back. Really REALLY feel them up front. (hear them too interesting Shhhhhhh sound) but the back only seems marginally better. Probably a good thing. In an emergency I don't want to accidentally lock up the rear.
10-13-2009, 07:56 AM
#14
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Rear Brake usage: Previously, never used it because of warnings of tipover/loss of control. Gradually learned to use rear approaching stop and while stopped to avoid creating hot spots on hot front brakes and to free up throttle hand. Then started using rear brake turning from stop to modulate throttle, to keep turn tight, and to stay in lane. Recently starting using the rear brake to help modulate fork dive if and when you need to suddenly get on the front brakes mid-turn and to keep the bike more controlled when entering and driving out of turn. SH rear brake works well enough for my purposes so far, but will upgrade because of more confidence with rear brakes usage.
I find that the rear brake is now an integral tool for faster, more controlled and smoother turning and regret not learning this skill years ago. With all the rear brake uses including wheelie height control, it may be wise to install a thumb brake to keep the right foot positioned for balance and leg control?
10-13-2009, 01:24 PM
#15
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10-13-2009, 02:27 PM
#16
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With over 180,000 miles of street riding, I've never worn out a set of rear brake linings/pads. I do make a point of using the rear brake at least once per ride (use it or lose it factor). Otherwise I only use it during emergency stops or when a yellow light catches me.
And if you're on the front brakes hard, you don't want to put too much pressure on the rear with the rear end unweighted, or you will lock it up and could go down.
And if you're on the front brakes hard, you don't want to put too much pressure on the rear with the rear end unweighted, or you will lock it up and could go down.
10-13-2009, 02:32 PM
#17
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I've locked the rear brake before on a panic stop and dragged the rear wheel for about 40 feet.
I don't think it's correct to say a rear brake shouldn't be capable of locking up. The rotor size, piston size, line pressure, and lever ratio all determine how much braking torque it has.
A weak brake might lock up at speeds up to 25 mph. A more powerful brake might be capable of locking up at speeds up to 50 mph. But at every speed above 25, that more powerful rear brake will decrease your stopping distances if used wisely. And above 50, you can grab at it all you want.
You can actually hold a constant pressure on your rear brake while slowing, and it'll slow you down fine until you get below a certain speed, it may lockup. It's counterintuitive.
I don't think it's correct to say a rear brake shouldn't be capable of locking up. The rotor size, piston size, line pressure, and lever ratio all determine how much braking torque it has.
A weak brake might lock up at speeds up to 25 mph. A more powerful brake might be capable of locking up at speeds up to 50 mph. But at every speed above 25, that more powerful rear brake will decrease your stopping distances if used wisely. And above 50, you can grab at it all you want.
You can actually hold a constant pressure on your rear brake while slowing, and it'll slow you down fine until you get below a certain speed, it may lockup. It's counterintuitive.
10-13-2009, 02:33 PM
#19
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I've locked the rear brake before on a panic stop and dragged the rear wheel for about 40 feet.
I don't think it's correct to say a rear brake shouldn't be capable of locking up. The rotor size, piston size, line pressure, and lever ratio all determine how much braking torque it has.
A weak brake might lock up at speeds up to 25 mph. A more powerful brake might be capable of locking up at speeds up to 50 mph. But at every speed above 25, that more powerful rear brake will decrease your stopping distances if used wisely. And above 50, you can grab at it all you want.
You can actually hold a constant pressure on your rear brake while slowing, and it'll slow you down fine until you get below a certain speed, it may lockup. It's counterintuitive.
I don't think it's correct to say a rear brake shouldn't be capable of locking up. The rotor size, piston size, line pressure, and lever ratio all determine how much braking torque it has.
A weak brake might lock up at speeds up to 25 mph. A more powerful brake might be capable of locking up at speeds up to 50 mph. But at every speed above 25, that more powerful rear brake will decrease your stopping distances if used wisely. And above 50, you can grab at it all you want.
You can actually hold a constant pressure on your rear brake while slowing, and it'll slow you down fine until you get below a certain speed, it may lockup. It's counterintuitive.
10-13-2009, 02:44 PM
#20
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during normal city driving i use the rear brake in combination with the front....i also use the rear brake to determine how much traction the surface has....how quickly or with how much force it locks up the rear tire tells me how much traction is available...during spirited rides....no, like people said, to settle a bike before a corner or mid corner corrections....but with the VTRs engine breaking just letting go of the gas slightly will slow it down a lot....
that lack of engine breaking freaks me out on my zx7r....WHY ARENT U STOPPING!?! oh right, no engine brake...duuh
that lack of engine breaking freaks me out on my zx7r....WHY ARENT U STOPPING!?! oh right, no engine brake...duuh
10-13-2009, 04:59 PM
#21
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I actually replaced my rear pads with SBS low-friction pads. While I do use the rear, I do so to settle the suspension or when front traction could be compromised on low grip surfaces. I tried the EBC HH rear pads and immediately replaced them (if anyone wants them) because they made locking up the rear waaay too easy!
10-13-2009, 05:38 PM
#22
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I actually replaced my rear pads with SBS low-friction pads. While I do use the rear, I do so to settle the suspension or when front traction could be compromised on low grip surfaces. I tried the EBC HH rear pads and immediately replaced them (if anyone wants them) because they made locking up the rear waaay too easy!
10-13-2009, 09:35 PM
#23
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10-14-2009, 08:56 AM
#24
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The spectator crowd increased about 10 fold from '71 to '72. There were people standing on top of houses and buildings everywhere. Fun times.
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