very frustrated
04-23-2013, 08:44 PM
#1
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Squid
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: blairsville georgia
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very frustrated
Well I know everybidy has this problem and all but ill go ahead and see what you guys think and hope not confirm what I fear. I bout my superhawk for 200 bucks and a shotgun I had. Not a bad deal I know I'd all else fails I can part it out but everhthing the guy told me sounded like ccts and sure enough the front one was bad and I replaced both with manuals. Got em in retimed front and back both were off and then got it all back together. Now its makin and bad clank noise from the front and the back. Are they to tight or to loose. I tried messin with it a little but it was way past dark and I was livid, didn't wanna accidently break somethin else. I did take the exhaust off and I also removed both spark plugs ti check on them. Took me a while but figured out that the plugs were a 18mm wierd for me but my socket barely fit and I couldn't tighten the rear one all theway and I know it needs to be but this wouldn't cause the noise I'm hearing would it
04-24-2013, 12:44 AM
#2
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SuperBike
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Location: Essex, UK
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Did you check that the valves weren't bent? As for plugs get a Honda VTR toolkit that has a sparkplug spanner specifically for the bike or find and buy something like this > Draper 1x Expert 12mm Plug 3/8" Square Drive Hi-Torq 6 Point Spark Plug Socket | eBay
04-24-2013, 04:39 AM
#3
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MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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I've found the Craftsman 18mm deep socket is thin enough to get down in to turn a spark plug.
The problem when CCT's break is not that they're broken (they're not terribly expensive to replace). The problem is that usually they keep the timing chain from skipping, and when they're broken, they stop doing this. When the timing is off, other things inside your motor collide and cause much more damage. So once they're broken it's usually too late (and you end up with bent valves). To determine if this has happened, do a valve clearance check as wickey suggested... instructions are in the manual...
The problem when CCT's break is not that they're broken (they're not terribly expensive to replace). The problem is that usually they keep the timing chain from skipping, and when they're broken, they stop doing this. When the timing is off, other things inside your motor collide and cause much more damage. So once they're broken it's usually too late (and you end up with bent valves). To determine if this has happened, do a valve clearance check as wickey suggested... instructions are in the manual...
04-24-2013, 06:06 AM
#5
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Superstock
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 325
heads for our bikes come up pretty regularly on here and ebay, just gotta find the one you need and ****** it before someone else with CCT failure does 
i have seen them go from 100-300 a piece and sometimes you can get a deal on both
good luck, nothing more frustrating than inheriting issues
i have seen them go from 100-300 a piece and sometimes you can get a deal on both
good luck, nothing more frustrating than inheriting issues
04-24-2013, 06:24 AM
#6
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Squid
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Well I didmt think that it was the valves that were making the clank because its coming from the front and the back or at least it sounds so and it kinda sounds like a chain. But the tensioners are snug and I even tightened it with a wrench while running to listen for a difference but heard nothing.
04-24-2013, 07:04 AM
#8
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Location: Essex, UK
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But the tensioners are snug and I even tightened it with a wrench while running
http://www.kriegercamchaintensioners.com
It came to my attention that there are individuals who either post instruction or have even put up Youtube videos giving misinformation about cam chain adjustment. It appears some will tell you to tighten the adjustment until the idle of the engine starts to drop. Others may say to tighten the adjustment until there is a squeal! What do these people think is happening mechanically when the engine is dragged down by excessive friction and even something causing a squeal? The cams run in the machined bearing surface of a rather expensive head. There is a film of a few thousandths of an inch between the cam journal and the head - about the thickness of a hair or two. Break that film and you have metal to metal contact.
Do you think it makes sense to tighten the cam drive until there is so much drag as to cause the engine to bog or squeal? Chains are meant to run with as little slack as possible, but NOT under any actual tension. (For some of you who played with bicycles you may have overtightened bicycle chains before, remember how they worked, then how much better they worked when slightly loose?) These well meaning people are making a serious error in performing adjustments in the fashions mentioned. If they don't cause immediate damage of some sort they will promote premature wear on components due to unnecessary tightness of the cam drive line, all rather costly to deal with..
Do you think it makes sense to tighten the cam drive until there is so much drag as to cause the engine to bog or squeal? Chains are meant to run with as little slack as possible, but NOT under any actual tension. (For some of you who played with bicycles you may have overtightened bicycle chains before, remember how they worked, then how much better they worked when slightly loose?) These well meaning people are making a serious error in performing adjustments in the fashions mentioned. If they don't cause immediate damage of some sort they will promote premature wear on components due to unnecessary tightness of the cam drive line, all rather costly to deal with..
04-24-2013, 07:51 AM
#9
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Squid
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So the clank is possibly overtightening. When I hear finger tight I think turn it with your finger until it doesn't turn anymore then back it out a 1/4 turn. But the way that site describes is finger turn it until it barely puts pressure on it then back it out a little
04-24-2013, 06:45 PM
#11
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SuperBike
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Did you set the correct timing when installing the manual CCTs?
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...pe-ccts-11275/
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...pe-ccts-11275/
04-29-2013, 06:30 AM
#16
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Does not sound right.
Sounds like you over tightened to me..
Diagnosing sound issues over the internet is with any degree of correctness a crap shoot......And not much more than a WAG..
The suggestion.... Start from scratch..... Follow the service manual exactly.. check the timing. If it shows as correct, with both valve covers off, reset the MCCT tension.
EDIT: Ok wait.. I see now (meaning I took the time to read your first post) that you bought the bike with a bad CCT? Did you hear it run before you took the ACCT's out and installed MCCTs?
Did you check timing before taking the bike apart?
Sounds like you over tightened to me..
Diagnosing sound issues over the internet is with any degree of correctness a crap shoot......And not much more than a WAG..
The suggestion.... Start from scratch..... Follow the service manual exactly.. check the timing. If it shows as correct, with both valve covers off, reset the MCCT tension.
EDIT: Ok wait.. I see now (meaning I took the time to read your first post) that you bought the bike with a bad CCT? Did you hear it run before you took the ACCT's out and installed MCCTs?
Did you check timing before taking the bike apart?
Last edited by E.Marquez; 04-29-2013 at 06:33 AM. Reason: More info
04-29-2013, 06:42 AM
#17
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Squid
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Location: blairsville georgia
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Correct. I bought it with a bad cct in front. Replaced it with mcct checked timing and I think they were to loose. Rechecked timing and front and back cylinders were both a tooth off. Fixed that and started it now I'm here. I got a hell of a deal on the bike( paid $200) so I was really excepting whatever problems it will have. I figured at worst it'll need an engine for 400-700. If a whole new engine can be avoided great. I don't have money to dump into it but I can afford things slowly but surely
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