Tach fritzing
04-13-2015, 08:38 AM
#1
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Tach fritzing
So this is a strange cause and effect. I installed a brand new battery and in the next few days my tach has begun to not work intermittently. Then my digital thermometer.
These could be unrelated but could a slightly larger battery (YTX 14BS) do this? Seems unlikely or unrelated but has anyone had this happen before I start tracing wires?
Seems too coincidental to be a coincidence.
These could be unrelated but could a slightly larger battery (YTX 14BS) do this? Seems unlikely or unrelated but has anyone had this happen before I start tracing wires?
Seems too coincidental to be a coincidence.
04-13-2015, 09:27 AM
#3
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R/R is recently replaced and I have 2 voltage meters that are reading good charge rates. I will double check its connections now that you mention it and put an outside voltmeter to check.
04-13-2015, 10:01 AM
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Update: Voltage is 13.2 standing and 15.7-15.8 running measured across battery.
That sounds too high to me.
UPDATE 2 I swapped on my backup RR (also an R1 unit) and the running voltage went to 16.5-16.6.
BUT, the tach came back on so at least I can (sorta) rule out bad connnections.
The different volts could easily be due to me sanding the contacts when re-installing the ground.
That sounds too high to me.
UPDATE 2 I swapped on my backup RR (also an R1 unit) and the running voltage went to 16.5-16.6.
BUT, the tach came back on so at least I can (sorta) rule out bad connnections.
The different volts could easily be due to me sanding the contacts when re-installing the ground.
Last edited by smokinjoe73; 04-13-2015 at 10:22 AM.
04-13-2015, 04:59 PM
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Yeah, kind of like when I ask my wife where my glasses are when they are on my head.
I still think its just the clean ground wire that did it. Still want to do that free ground upgrade mod.
I still think its just the clean ground wire that did it. Still want to do that free ground upgrade mod.
Last edited by smokinjoe73; 04-13-2015 at 05:32 PM.
04-13-2015, 05:48 PM
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Update: Voltage is 13.2 standing and 15.7-15.8 running measured across battery.
That sounds too high to me.
UPDATE 2 I swapped on my backup RR (also an R1 unit) and the running voltage went to 16.5-16.6.
BUT, the tach came back on so at least I can (sorta) rule out bad connnections.
The different volts could easily be due to me sanding the contacts when re-installing the ground.
That sounds too high to me.
UPDATE 2 I swapped on my backup RR (also an R1 unit) and the running voltage went to 16.5-16.6.
BUT, the tach came back on so at least I can (sorta) rule out bad connnections.
The different volts could easily be due to me sanding the contacts when re-installing the ground.
See post 133.
Last edited by Wolverine; 04-13-2015 at 05:54 PM.
04-13-2015, 07:50 PM
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Well, sorta. That reading is with an actual multimeter.
I have 2 other voltmeters on the bike and they are reading around 14's. I am going to do some tinkering tomorrow to get a better sense.
I don't love the idea of a true 16volts, but don't think it is. Will try other meters I have.
I have 2 other voltmeters on the bike and they are reading around 14's. I am going to do some tinkering tomorrow to get a better sense.
I don't love the idea of a true 16volts, but don't think it is. Will try other meters I have.
04-15-2015, 07:29 PM
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Well, sorta. That reading is with an actual multimeter.
I have 2 other voltmeters on the bike and they are reading around 14's. I am going to do some tinkering tomorrow to get a better sense.
I don't love the idea of a true 16volts, but don't think it is. Will try other meters I have.
I have 2 other voltmeters on the bike and they are reading around 14's. I am going to do some tinkering tomorrow to get a better sense.
I don't love the idea of a true 16volts, but don't think it is. Will try other meters I have.
16+ volts is in the destroy 12VDC components range
You either have a bad R/R if you really are getting 16v DC, OR you have a bad meter
Last edited by E.Marquez; 04-17-2015 at 05:06 AM.
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