R1/R6 Regulator/Rectifier Swap - Page 5 - SuperHawk Forum


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Old 12-22-2011, 09:11 AM   #121  
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Saige, many thanks for your quick reply. That's a relief

My winter project includes manual CCT mod, the R/R mod, full service and I should be good to go.

Last edited by Sandyback; 12-22-2011 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:13 PM   #122  
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Updated post #1.
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:25 PM   #123  
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OK, I'm ready to do the swap, but I have a question: is there a way to tell pos & neg on the R1 RR and does it matter what order the yellow wires plug in? I know the pix show everything wired up but I'm wanting to be certain about wire placement so I don't inflict damage to my bike.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:46 PM   #124  
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Yellow wires don't matter. Positive toward the inside, negative toward the outside.
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:14 PM   #125  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberBeast View Post
Its been discussed but maybe its because your fitting a more modern unit R/R.

As far as i can see from a wiring diagram, the grey socket houses 3 connections for the pulse/pickup wires and the black socket houses 2 connections for the negative (+) and positive (-).

The diagram below will show which order the (+) and (-) fits.

this seems directly opposite of the connection used by Hawkrider
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/
This part was pricy and I don't want to blow it up or my battery and other parts. I want to be certain I'm connecting everything right!
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:20 PM   #126  
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OK, now I feel totally stoooopid. I posted before I saw your reply, 7more7.
Thanks for replying. It seems to reason that I would fit the wires same as oem connections, red to inside, but I want to be sure. BTW, what would be the result of reversing the power wires? (I have to plead confusion from my earlier encounter with a deer).
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:11 AM   #127  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twist View Post
OK, now I feel totally stoooopid. I posted before I saw your reply, 7more7.
Thanks for replying. It seems to reason that I would fit the wires same as oem connections, red to inside, but I want to be sure. BTW, what would be the result of reversing the power wires? (I have to plead confusion from my earlier encounter with a deer).
Well, first a whole lot of nothing, then when you get frustrated enough, and look at the main fuse, you will find that it's burnt... That's about it really... Then you change the fuse and start over with the wires in the right place...
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:26 AM   #128  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberBeast View Post
Its been discussed but maybe its because your fitting a more modern unit R/R.

As far as i can see from a wiring diagram, the grey socket houses 3 connections for the pulse/pickup wires and the black socket houses 2 connections for the negative (+) and positive (-).

The diagram below will show which order the (+) and (-) fits.

After viewing that ^, I see why you are confused. This is correct:
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Guess I should edit out that diagram to end confusion, yes?

Last edited by Wolverine; 10-21-2014 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:01 AM   #129  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine View Post
After viewing that ^, I see why you are confused. This is correct:



Guess I should edit out that diagram to end confusion, yes?

Actually, both are correct... Albeit the first one is confusing, it's still correct... One is looking at the R/R, the other at the plugs...

Have a look at the little image and note the notches on the connectors, and then look at the photo below...

If you move the two connectors in the opposite orientation, ie swap them over, you get a better representation, still correct, but less confusing, as it then becomes more obvious that it's the connectors we are looking at...
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:03 AM   #130  
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Or make it dummy proof... Black connector, positive wire on the end with double notches/cutouts... Negative wire on the end with a single notch/cutout...

Instead of "inside/outside" which only works if you look at the R/R, and not the wiring...
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:24 AM   #131  
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I think we need a clever acronym about wire color placement on the R/R. Or maybe a song.

Righty tighty, lefty loosy!
Stalactites hang tightly from the ceiling. Stalagmites MIGHT... but they don't.

^ Something along those lines.
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #132  
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No earth wire present?

I recently did this mod. Everytjing seems to be fine but my volt meter seems to be reading 15.1-15.6 volts when i check it after a ride with engine on? Is this normal? If not, in the thread it showz a green earth wire attatched to mounting bolt. I dont remember a any wire being attatchedto my stocker. Does the 03 have the earth wire as well? if so and its not attatched could this be my problem? Thanks for any info guys
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:42 PM   #133  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdavidc85 View Post
I recently did this mod. Everytjing seems to be fine but my volt meter seems to be reading 15.1-15.6 volts when i check it after a ride with engine on? Is this normal? If not, in the thread it showz a green earth wire attatched to mounting bolt. I dont remember a any wire being attatchedto my stocker. Does the 03 have the earth wire as well? if so and its not attatched could this be my problem? Thanks for any info guys
No, it's definetly not normal, that voltage is enough to slowly kill your battery, and rather quickly damage the electronics on the bike...

And yes, there should be a green wire that grounds to the frame close to the R/R on all years, but it's defiently not the entire problem...
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:51 PM   #134  
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So i can run my own ground to the frame then right? Also any idea as to what could be making the voltage high? A loose connection On one of the pulse wires ?
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:43 AM   #135  
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So if an ebay R1 RR is roughly $40 and the connectors are roughly $25 and that involves cutting wires etc. is there any reason why this wouldnt be a good option? I understand that is essentially an additionaly $30, but... it should be every bit as good right? 1998 Honda VTR1000 SuperHawkStreet Bike OEM Style Honda Rectifier-Regulator Aftermarket Parts

I am just trying to get a better understanding.

Thanks

Craig
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:14 AM   #136  
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Nope, definitely not as good. Even the older r6 regulator isn't the best option now because it's a shunt based one as well (just with huge fins). There doesn't exist a plug and play option that is optimal. It's about the technology inside of the unit. This thread will help understand more:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:26 PM   #137  
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Thanks for the info- i went with the r1 rr and the connector kit from eager beaver or whatever that site is. and.. i saved some monies as well- now- i just have to sit and wait for everything to show up- and stare at my superhawk - stranded in the garage.

Craig
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:40 PM   #138  
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Question: the diagram above should be the same for the 04-05 zx10 regulator/rectifier i picked up, correct? Part number FH010BA.

It is low profile with cooling fins, and has a 3 pin gray connector, and a 2 pin black connector.

Thanks!
James
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Old 09-24-2014, 02:02 PM   #139  
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Another question. I did the r1 swap. How hot do these r/r get lets say... on a 30 min ride? Like really hot to the touch?

Just curious. Want to make sure I am not going to catch on fire
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:14 PM   #140  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberBeast View Post
Its been discussed but maybe its because your fitting a more modern unit R/R.

As far as i can see from a wiring diagram, the grey socket houses 3 connections for the pulse/pickup wires and the black socket houses 2 connections for the negative (+) and positive (-).

The diagram below will show which order the (+) and (-) fits.

I dont think this diagram is correct, by looking at the pictures it looks like the green goes where the red dot is on this post..
Attached Thumbnails
R1/R6 Regulator/Rectifier Swap-fh012aawiring1.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:53 AM   #141  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonjonsocal View Post
I dont think this diagram is correct, by looking at the pictures it looks like the green goes where the red dot is on this post..
It is actually correct jonjon as stated in an earlier post somewhere. Imagine unplugging the socket and looking "up in" it.

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Note position of red wire and green in the black plug.

Last edited by Wolverine; 10-21-2014 at 07:26 AM.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:57 PM   #142  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine View Post
It is actually correct jonjon as stated in an earlier post somewhere. Imagine unplugging the socket and looking "up in" it.


Note position of red wire and green in the black plug.
So the green wire (while plugged in) is on the outside of the r/r... Right? Also are they supposed to get some what hot pretty quick? Thanks i just did mine.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:51 PM   #143  
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Do you think a fh022ba would fit the 'storm? It'd be coming from a later mt10/r1
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Old 05-29-2018, 03:01 PM   #144  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigborer View Post
Do you think a fh022ba would fit the 'storm? It'd be coming from a later mt10/r1
It has a funky plug, no idea where bouts can source one other then cutting the connector from a wiring harness.

Its not an RR I have data on, so im not sure what the control circuit is, or wither it is thyristors, diodes, and MOS FETs, no idea what the rated capacity is, or if it is switched or shunt design.

Also don't know if they are prone to failure, or known to be robust when used on a VTR. so its a big if over all....

FH020AA / FH012AA is common, cheap used, and decent priced new, known to work well on this bike and known to be trouble free over all on all bikes it came on..they just are not known to fail... There is a lot written on the install of one making it pain free to do.

Folks have installed all manner of RRs on this bike, some work, some fail... BUT the FH022BA is an unknown, so
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Old 05-29-2018, 03:35 PM   #145  
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Thanks!
In this case, I'd stick with the FH020AA / FH012AA.
The only advantage of FH022BA would have been it coming off a newer/lower mileage bike.
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:40 AM   #146  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigborer View Post
.
The only advantage of FH022BA would have been it coming off a newer/lower mileage bike.
Ive bought and used dozens of take off FH020AA / FH012AA. RR's Tested them all before use and all fine, tested after install or sale, all fine, and not a single one has been reported back as failed in a lot of years now. So long as it test and works fine on install, the install is done correctly I think there is no issue with a used FH020AA / FH012AA. Quality of the install is key
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:49 AM   #147  
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Quote:
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Quality of the install is key
I agree 1000%
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:26 AM   #148  
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How long do you think this job should take? Taking off the rear cowl, fitting the the "new" rectifier, cutting and soldering, mounting everything back up?
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:26 AM   #149  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigborer View Post
How long do you think this job should take? Taking off the rear cowl, fitting the the "new" rectifier, cutting and soldering, mounting everything back up?
I'm expecting it to take me about an hour. This is taking my time and making sure I get it right. This will be the first time for me to "dig into" mine, so it may take longer as I am very curious when taking things apart. I will be able to let you know exactly next week, as I am installing one that I ordered from E.Marquez.

Then there's the MCCTs......
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Old 07-21-2018, 04:17 PM   #150  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigborer View Post
How long do you think this job should take? Taking off the rear cowl, fitting the the "new" rectifier, cutting and soldering, mounting everything back up?
Completely depends on how efficient you are with your time. Don't rush it, get it right the first time.
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