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-   -   Tach fritzing (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/tach-fritzing-33088/)

smokinjoe73 04-13-2015 08:38 AM

Tach fritzing
 
So this is a strange cause and effect. I installed a brand new battery and in the next few days my tach has begun to not work intermittently. Then my digital thermometer.

These could be unrelated but could a slightly larger battery (YTX 14BS) do this? Seems unlikely or unrelated but has anyone had this happen before I start tracing wires?

Seems too coincidental to be a coincidence.

thetophatflash 04-13-2015 09:00 AM

How's your R/R?

smokinjoe73 04-13-2015 09:27 AM

R/R is recently replaced and I have 2 voltage meters that are reading good charge rates. I will double check its connections now that you mention it and put an outside voltmeter to check.

smokinjoe73 04-13-2015 10:01 AM

Update: Voltage is 13.2 standing and 15.7-15.8 running measured across battery.

That sounds too high to me.

UPDATE 2 I swapped on my backup RR (also an R1 unit) and the running voltage went to 16.5-16.6.

BUT, the tach came back on so at least I can (sorta) rule out bad connnections.

The different volts could easily be due to me sanding the contacts when re-installing the ground.

smokinjoe73 04-13-2015 04:02 PM

Well, this is a one sided post but the latest finding is that all is normal with the new RR.

One more proof that it pays to keep a regulator rectifier in stock just in case.

thetophatflash 04-13-2015 04:53 PM

Glad to help out. lol

smokinjoe73 04-13-2015 04:59 PM

Yeah, kind of like when I ask my wife where my glasses are when they are on my head.

I still think its just the clean ground wire that did it. Still want to do that free ground upgrade mod.

Wolverine 04-13-2015 05:48 PM


Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 (Post 384841)
Update: Voltage is 13.2 standing and 15.7-15.8 running measured across battery.

That sounds too high to me.

UPDATE 2 I swapped on my backup RR (also an R1 unit) and the running voltage went to 16.5-16.6.

BUT, the tach came back on so at least I can (sorta) rule out bad connnections.

The different volts could easily be due to me sanding the contacts when re-installing the ground.

Soooo, you're leaving it as is @ 16+?

See post 133.

smokinjoe73 04-13-2015 07:50 PM

Well, sorta. That reading is with an actual multimeter.

I have 2 other voltmeters on the bike and they are reading around 14's. I am going to do some tinkering tomorrow to get a better sense.

I don't love the idea of a true 16volts, but don't think it is. Will try other meters I have.

E.Marquez 04-15-2015 07:29 PM


Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 (Post 384865)
Well, sorta. That reading is with an actual multimeter.

I have 2 other voltmeters on the bike and they are reading around 14's. I am going to do some tinkering tomorrow to get a better sense.

I don't love the idea of a true 16volts, but don't think it is. Will try other meters I have.

Try a quality known good meter (tested against a known source voltage.)
16+ volts is in the destroy 12VDC components range

You either have a bad R/R if you really are getting 16v DC, OR you have a bad meter


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