T in the vacuum line?
06-09-2010, 07:26 PM
#1
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Superstock
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 395
T in the vacuum line?
I have been wrestling with the carbs now for days and cant seem to solve this problem. I have tried numerous scenarios and in the end its the same
If i open the throttle smoothly and in a linear fashion its okay. If i flick the throttle quick like you would if you were showing the sound of a new set of cans or something, then it bogs before actually revving. I put a T in the vacuum line and capped it for synch purposes and my question is this; could the diameter of the T fitting be too small and causing a vacuum problem? I did the tps mod and tried 1 washer, 2 washers, slotted the mixture screws and tried 1.75, 2.00, 2.25, 2.50 and even three turns out. It made a difference just not for the problem. Im going to deals gap next friday for the first time and i need my hawk in top form
Any ideas? Checked all my connections and slide boots etc... No pvlir or anything.
If i open the throttle smoothly and in a linear fashion its okay. If i flick the throttle quick like you would if you were showing the sound of a new set of cans or something, then it bogs before actually revving. I put a T in the vacuum line and capped it for synch purposes and my question is this; could the diameter of the T fitting be too small and causing a vacuum problem? I did the tps mod and tried 1 washer, 2 washers, slotted the mixture screws and tried 1.75, 2.00, 2.25, 2.50 and even three turns out. It made a difference just not for the problem. Im going to deals gap next friday for the first time and i need my hawk in top form Any ideas? Checked all my connections and slide boots etc... No pvlir or anything.
06-09-2010, 08:05 PM
#2
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SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,051
the line you put a T into goes to the fuel petcock it should not cause any problem like you describe. if it did cause a problem it would be high rpm runs draining the carb bowls... and the petcock not opening enough to too keep them full.
mine has seen many of high speed runs and i don't have any issues having a T installed.
tim
mine has seen many of high speed runs and i don't have any issues having a T installed.
tim
06-09-2010, 08:43 PM
#3
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There's one other possibility I've seen before. One or both slides could be hanging up at the bottom. Take the airbox cover and filter out and very slowly lift each slide with your finger. They should be smooth, and they should slide shut smoothly on their own. If there is any extra friction on either slide then you'll have to find out where it's coming from, file/sand whatever is causing it, and maybe lubricate it with some silicone spray.
06-10-2010, 07:55 AM
#5
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Location: Western PA
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Dshakes, when you say you tried one,two washers are you refering to a needle shim? If so, that may be your problem. Did you sync the carbs afterwords? Also for the quick sync setup, did you plug the hose coming off the joint boost that you install on the front cylinder? I've left my unplugged and it ran like crap. It cracked and popped thru the exhaust just idling, when I realized it and plugged it, it ran fine.
06-10-2010, 02:04 PM
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
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Dshakes, when you say you tried one,two washers are you refering to a needle shim? If so, that may be your problem. Did you sync the carbs afterwords? Also for the quick sync setup, did you plug the hose coming off the joint boost that you install on the front cylinder? I've left my unplugged and it ran like crap. It cracked and popped thru the exhaust just idling, when I realized it and plugged it, it ran fine.
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