kai ju

I just got a pm regarding my sales ad where I mention making my CCTs manual.
I guess I never posted that before so here is the explanation.

[QUOTE=bjorn toulouse]What are the manual adjust CCTs.
Are they originally for a different bike, or a replacement for the spring loaded units as fitted to the SuperHawk?

Part #?


I'm still using the stock, self adjusting CCTs but I've added a bolt and nut that permit me to lock the adjuster, if needed.
In place of the stock short bolt that covers the hole in the adjuster body I've installed a longer bolt that has been ground flat at the tip.
When screwed all the way in until it touches the CCTs internal screw and locks it in place. This prevents the internal mechanism from rotating. I used that method on the original tensioners that were backing off with the engine running.
I rode it that way for about 8000 miles without any problem.
On the rear tensioner you have to wrap the threads with a single layer of teflon tape to keep it from leaking and place a copper or aluminum washer under the nut, for the same reason.
The front tensioner doesn't care but I did it anyway.
If you go to post #47 in my original "the new guy....." thread you can see the bolt and nut in the second pic.
Mind you, if you keep the mechanism from rotating it also won't extend to adjust for wear but all you have to do is once in a while loosen the bolt while it's idling, retorque it and tighten the nut.
When I say retorque I mean no more than 4-5 ft/lbs. You just want to keep the internal screw from rotating.

Any questions, let me know.

Kai Ju

gboezio

Very neat, I will try this when I'll prep my bike for the season

JamieDaugherty

I've got mine locked down in a similar fashion. I use a set screw and nut to hold it in place. On both I have a sealing washer to keep the oil where it belongs. Seems to work ok, though I have no reason to believe mine are bad.

kai ju

Mine were bad and the cam chain was making a bunch of noise.
I figured I'd try it and the first attempt worked but leaked oil around the bolt on the rear cylinder, even with a copper gasket under the flanged nut.
Once I wrapped the bolt with Teflon tape it stopped leaking.
I eventually replaced the CCTs but I installed the nut and bolt combo, without touching the inner screw, just in case this one starts getting noisy.

Here is the pic of the front one, so you don't have to go look for it.

Kai Ju

JamieDaugherty

Something to keep in mind: the screw inside the tensioner does not go in-and-out, it just turns. If you put a screw in there without it bearing down on the device it won't be doing anything. Just an FYI.

lazn

I think that's why he ground it flat on the tip (I assume screwdriver like) to prevent it turning.

kai ju

Yes, very important point. That's also why the bolt you're going to screw in there has to be flat and square where it meets the screw or it won't be able to lock it down.

Kai Ju

steve29

From reading threads on this forum, I understand that the CCT are an area of concern for some years of the Hawk. Is 2000 among them? I heard they go with zero warning too. Anyone with insight? I appreciate it.

Tweety

It applies to all years, regardless of the amount of miles... And no they won't go with zero warning... But usually the warnings are hard to tell, and the end pretty abrubt, so unless you feel like gambling either replace the OEM Honda one's as a regular maintainance item or swap them for manual one's, preferably APE's... Either way the cost is negligable compared to the gain...

Look in the forums, beyond the list of daily topics on the frontpage... The topic has been discussed in depth several times over...

steve29

Thanks. I'll do that.

nath981

more info on this thread that could be helpful/

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...=cheap+cct+fix