Still not running right
#2
So what Stg 1 is installed? What is a Stg 1? Is there a Stg 2 or 3?
It is a rather confusing term..... but yeah if it runs the way you describe, it is not set up correctly. This normally happens when someone that is used to tuning I4's tries to tune a V2 like they would an I4.
It is a rather confusing term..... but yeah if it runs the way you describe, it is not set up correctly. This normally happens when someone that is used to tuning I4's tries to tune a V2 like they would an I4.
#3
So if it has a "stage 1" I would imagine you are talking about a Jet kit? and If so, is there an aftermarket exaust system on it? If you answered yes to both of these questions: goto the search tab on the upper right-hand corner of your screen and type in : Carb Set-Up. 8541Hawk did a real nice write up on this and is worth the time to do it. The pain in the *** is the fine tuning.
#4
Well first of all, welcome to the forum Mikexup. I'll throw my 2cents worth in, by saying follow the KISS princible. You mentioned that you had the carbs cleaned, so maybe look at the rubber boots & make sure the carbs are seated correctly & not sucking air. Also possible the choke cables/needles could be broken or not installed correctly. Check vacuum hoses, etc. If not any of the above, then time to find out what jets & needle settings you have. I agree, if you've paid someone good money to do it for you, then I'd be havin a talk with him & either get your money back or have him do the job right. I also agree with what was said previously, V-twins are not like I4s. Good luck!
#5
Vacuum Line
First post, been doing a lot of reading though trying to educate myself on the Superhawk after buying a 98 a week and a half ago with very low mileage. Bike is pretty much pristine in looks, but would not idle at all when I bought it so had the carbs cleaned, oil changed, everything pretty much gone over before I even brought the bike home which was today. To get to the point, I'm still not satisfied with the way the bike runs off the bottom end even though I haven't taken it out on the road yet. It will idle ok but doesn't want to take the throttle off the bottom end without stumbling and the exhaust popping. Kind of upset that the guy would give the bike back to me with it running like this (he did say it ran ok when warmed up but that's not true) and he even admitted that it wasn't right off the bottom like it was too lean or something (the bike has a stage one installed). Open to suggestions that I can give him when I take it back if that's what I decide to do. I think I paid enough that the bike should run good, but if he doesn't have the expertise to get it there do I really want him messing with it anymore???
Oh, great forum, been enjoying all the reading.
Oh, great forum, been enjoying all the reading.
#6
You should be suspect of anything the previous owner claims since the real proof is a poorly running bike. If its a done deal move ahead and forget him & his claims. Decide if you want to wrench yourself or give it to someone. You can spend hours on here reading good info on how each of us figured out the same problems.
You should use the search and read your *** off. This way even if you pay someone (dont go to a stealership) qualified to do it you will understand what is being done.
I just did a motor swap and dismantled the carbs many times dialing it in. It runs amazing now so it can be done. For sure you need to check the carb boots (rubber that holds the carbs to the motor). They have to seal perfectly.
Re-post with more details about the bike (exhaust, carb set up, etc) and whether you plan to wrench yourself. IMHO the bike is pretty easy to work on & you can learn in steps. Each time you yank the tank, airbox and carbs it gets exponentially easier.
You should use the search and read your *** off. This way even if you pay someone (dont go to a stealership) qualified to do it you will understand what is being done.
I just did a motor swap and dismantled the carbs many times dialing it in. It runs amazing now so it can be done. For sure you need to check the carb boots (rubber that holds the carbs to the motor). They have to seal perfectly.
Re-post with more details about the bike (exhaust, carb set up, etc) and whether you plan to wrench yourself. IMHO the bike is pretty easy to work on & you can learn in steps. Each time you yank the tank, airbox and carbs it gets exponentially easier.
#7
The bike has the DynaJet Stage 1 jet kit in it, 75 and 80 main jets.
It has had a modification done to the stock exhaust, looks and sounds like they've done a good job on that.
I will check the PVLIR once I do more reading on that. Is there a easy way to to make sure I'm looking at the vacuum line when checking the petcock?
VTRsurfer: I'm kind of thinking along the same lines of wondering if he soaked the pilot jets because it feels like the stumbling comes right at the transition from going off the idle circuit, or maybe the needles need shimmed correctly.
Wouldn't mind doing doing this myself I guess (the fine tuning part), have all winter now to play in the garage.
quote:
I agree with a previous post suggestion of going to "Carb set-up" by 8541Hawk and keep it simple. With the carb mods listed in my signature, and pilot screws 2 1/2 out, my bike runs like a raped ape.
I will definitely look at 8541Hawks "carb set-up" and also look at your carb mods in your signature.
Thanks for all the replies and information. Mike
It has had a modification done to the stock exhaust, looks and sounds like they've done a good job on that.
I will check the PVLIR once I do more reading on that. Is there a easy way to to make sure I'm looking at the vacuum line when checking the petcock?
VTRsurfer: I'm kind of thinking along the same lines of wondering if he soaked the pilot jets because it feels like the stumbling comes right at the transition from going off the idle circuit, or maybe the needles need shimmed correctly.
Wouldn't mind doing doing this myself I guess (the fine tuning part), have all winter now to play in the garage.
quote:
I agree with a previous post suggestion of going to "Carb set-up" by 8541Hawk and keep it simple. With the carb mods listed in my signature, and pilot screws 2 1/2 out, my bike runs like a raped ape.
I will definitely look at 8541Hawks "carb set-up" and also look at your carb mods in your signature.
Thanks for all the replies and information. Mike
Then it's a DynoJet Kit (sorry about giving you a hard time with the Stg 1 stuff.....it's just funny to me.... they sell 1 version of the kit, so.....)
With this set up you add a lift hole to each slide, which IMHO, is not what these carbs need.
Now some folks have gotten them to run well but I never really could.
One thing i have learned is you need to be extremely careful drilling tese holes to make sure you don't get them oversize, which will cause problems.
The carbs set up thread will not be of much help for you as it is more for the stock bits or the FactroyPro kit.
The one other thing is, where are you located at?
#8
With the reading I've done, with my bike being stock except for the stock exhaust can modification, stage one dynajet kit, this is what I'm gathering is the baseline to start with.
Mains: 175 front, 180 rear, Needles at 5, Pilot screws 2 1/2 turns out (just to make sure what are the stock pilot sizes?) Do these need to be replaced with a 48 size pilot.
Mains: 175 front, 180 rear, Needles at 5, Pilot screws 2 1/2 turns out (just to make sure what are the stock pilot sizes?) Do these need to be replaced with a 48 size pilot.
The two viable options to modify the stock pipes are to either bypass the last baffle in the chamber design by drilling holes, or outrigth remove it...
The first option is OK, increasing flow, and opening up the stock pipes to sound nice... The second more or less FUBAR's the carb setup... It impacts a lot more than you think... And combine that with a mechanic that treats the bike like a IL4 missing a pair of cylinders, and you get trouble...
A pair of slip-ons with a more or less straight through core makes more backpressure than the stock pipes do with the baffle removed... It's not a great idea... If that's what's done, expect to increase the jet's a bit more than average...
#9
With a '98 that has 1K miles, the first step would be to replace the CCT's.
Then go from there. Also, once again, where are you located? That info could help point you to someone who does know how to set one of these bikes up.
Then go from there. Also, once again, where are you located? That info could help point you to someone who does know how to set one of these bikes up.
#10
cct's
[QUOTE=8541Hawk;319333]With a '98 that has 1K miles, the first step would be to replace the CCT's.
Uh oh, I must have missed something. What's dangerous about cct's with 1000 miles on them regardless of age? Mine's a '02 with 4900 miles and original cct's.
Uh oh, I must have missed something. What's dangerous about cct's with 1000 miles on them regardless of age? Mine's a '02 with 4900 miles and original cct's.
#11
[QUOTE=zxbud;321057]
You'll probably be okay for the next 100 miles, then when you reach 5K the pin will be pulled on your CCTs then you'll need to wait and see how lucky you are
While waiting for the fuse in the CCT to go you can read this thread...
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ck-boom-26943/
You'll probably be okay for the next 100 miles, then when you reach 5K the pin will be pulled on your CCTs then you'll need to wait and see how lucky you are
While waiting for the fuse in the CCT to go you can read this thread...
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ck-boom-26943/
#12
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niteridder64
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03-21-2013 01:42 PM