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VTR running lean/ not running

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Old 02-01-2011, 02:26 PM
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VTR running lean/ not running

I am new to this forum so to start with hello everybody. I picked up a 98 VTR 1000 for $800 and am planning to use it as a track bike. It wouldnt start when i got it so i pulled the carbs and found that they were pretty dirty i guess from old gas sitting in them. I cleaned the jets and replaced all the orings seals and the mounting insulators. It fired up immediately with no choke and ran fine for about ten minutes. Then it turned itself off. Now it will start innitially when its cold and run for a smooth for a few minutes then shut off. I can get it to fire again if i hold the choke out but it wont stay on and it dies immediately if i give it any throttle. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:03 PM
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replace the pilot jets
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:10 PM
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It rather sounds like runnig RICH at idle than lean. If setup properly these bikes should be hard to start cold without choke. What is your idle jet? How many turns out on the idle mixture screw? A usual setup is about 2-2,5 turns out. You said you cleaned the jets but did you clean the fuel passages? Dying when opening the throttle could mean a clogged main jet or maybe a passage (if the problem is in the carbs of course....).
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Type T
It rather sounds like runnig RICH at idle than lean. If setup properly these bikes should be hard to start cold without choke. What is your idle jet? How many turns out on the idle mixture screw? A usual setup is about 2-2,5 turns out. You said you cleaned the jets but did you clean the fuel passages? Dying when opening the throttle could mean a clogged main jet or maybe a passage (if the problem is in the carbs of course....).
I may try resetting the mixture screw though i never messed with the adjustment on it when i pulled the carbs. I did clean the passages unless i missed something that came out after i put the carbs back together.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:21 PM
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First, the main jets are not the problem..... if you managed to clog a 175 or larger main, there is a lot of dirt in the carbs......

Second if you didn't remove the mixture screws, then you left dirt in the carbs. So it sounds like some of it broke loose and re clogged the pilots or the emulsion tubes.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
First, the main jets are not the problem..... if you managed to clog a 175 or larger main, there is a lot of dirt in the carbs......

Second if you didn't remove the mixture screws, then you left dirt in the carbs. So it sounds like some of it broke loose and re clogged the pilots or the emulsion tubes.
Yeah i didnt figure it was the main jets. When i cleaned them most of the trash was in the slow jets. One of the reasons i didnt pull the pilots was because i wasnt sure how to remove them. is there a special tool needed
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:44 PM
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It's just Honda "D" shaped driver. If you don't have one or can't make one the most common thing to do is use a dremel and cut some straight slots in them so you can use a standard screw driver to adjust and\or remove them.
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:35 PM
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might try to find one somewhere. it did look like it needed a special tool. This is the first Honda ive messed with and the first set of carbs ive had to dig into. Been lucky with the fuel system side of bikes in the past
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
It's just Honda "D" shaped driver. If you don't have one or can't make one the most common thing to do is use a dremel and cut some straight slots in them so you can use a standard screw driver to adjust and\or remove them.
i see why you would want to make your own tool. i went to the local honda dealer and asked about it. $300!!! i didnt get it. they showed me a motion pro tool that fit vtr's for about $80. thats doable
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:02 PM
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If you slot them you can use this tool to adjust them on the bike:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0119/
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Old 02-02-2011, 02:00 PM
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If you are planning on replacing the jets anyway, buy the Factory Pro kit. It comes with the little D tool.

Also, make sure that you hooked up the hoses correctly on the tank. The littlest hose goes on the nipple pointing towards the front of the bike, NOT on the one pointing down. Dont ask me how I know!

G
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Old 02-02-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vtrgeoff
If you are planning on replacing the jets anyway, buy the Factory Pro kit. It comes with the little D tool.

Also, make sure that you hooked up the hoses correctly on the tank. The littlest hose goes on the nipple pointing towards the front of the bike, NOT on the one pointing down. Dont ask me how I know!

G
I have to disagree with you here. Just about any jet kit is a waste of $$ with this bike. You will get better results by shimming the stock needles .040" and installing a set of #48 pilots, which will set you back around $10.

But if you have to install a kit, the FactoryPro kit does get better reviews.
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:03 PM
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You are entitled to your opinion.

I used the Factory Pro Stage 1 kit. I ended up using the Factory Pro needle with the clip in the middle slot, up 1 size on the front main and 2 sizes on the rear. Mixture scews out 2.75 turns. Stock (45) pilots. Stock air filter. 120 miles to rlod

I tried the 48 pilots and the bike went like a scared rabbit under aggressive riding, but I got real tired of only getting 70 miles on a tank of gas. And the bike was a pig in traffic.

As always YMMV.

G
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vtrgeoff
You are entitled to your opinion.

I used the Factory Pro Stage 1 kit. I ended up using the Factory Pro needle with the clip in the middle slot, up 1 size on the front main and 2 sizes on the rear. Mixture scews out 2.75 turns. Stock (45) pilots. Stock air filter. 120 miles to rlod

I tried the 48 pilots and the bike went like a scared rabbit under aggressive riding, but I got real tired of only getting 70 miles on a tank of gas. And the bike was a pig in traffic.

As always YMMV.

G

Well it's just information that I pass along..... the set up was arrived at by Dan Kyle after back to back dyno runs with this set up, DynoJet & FactoryPro kits. So run what you like but I'll stick to any and all information I receive from Dan and yes YMMV.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by vtrgeoff
You are entitled to your opinion.

I used the Factory Pro Stage 1 kit. I ended up using the Factory Pro needle with the clip in the middle slot, up 1 size on the front main and 2 sizes on the rear. Mixture scews out 2.75 turns. Stock (45) pilots. Stock air filter. 120 miles to rlod

I tried the 48 pilots and the bike went like a scared rabbit under aggressive riding, but I got real tired of only getting 70 miles on a tank of gas. And the bike was a pig in traffic.

As always YMMV.

G
Actually, you are supposed to set the bike up for the pilot jet that's right for your particular bike/riding/altitude whatever... And increasing the pilots to #48 does not automatically mean less fuel mileage...

Oh, a sidenote on your post, I guess you know, but the way you wrote it might be misleading... Mixing needles and jets from different manufacturers are a bad idea... If you use FP jets, use their needles... If you use stock jets, use the stock needle... And if you use DJ jets, you get the picture...
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:37 PM
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gonna try some of this stuff this weekend ill update next week
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:32 PM
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The update is im an idiot. I will blame it on the flu ive had. I started from the top. I disconnected the fuel lines from the petcock and cranked it. Nothing. So i pulled the line off the back of the petcock< which was hooked up right> and put a vacuum guage on it. Nothing. Upon further review i discovered that i had hooked the drain to the petcock and the vacuum to the drain. Once it was all properly connected the bike started while choked the settled down nicely after the choke was let off. The throttle responded nice and all is well. I still plan on fine tuning the carbs some but im much better off than i was. Thanks for the advice
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