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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:56 PM
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steering head bearings

So, a while back I discovered my steering head bearings needed to be replaced. So I upgraded the bearings to all ***** bearings, roller bearings. The difference is noticeable! So now I'm considering the shim for the rear shock after what I've read about that little improvement. Great information here on all things VTR, glad you're all here!
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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Rear shim makes huge difference. Make a couple so you can try different thicknesses.

You can use my patented cadcam design and laser cut system.
Attached Thumbnails steering head bearings-spacercut2.21-001.jpg  
Old May 1, 2014 | 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Rear shim makes huge difference. Make a couple so you can try different thicknesses.

You can use my patented cadcam design and laser cut system.
Thats some innovation going on right there.

But really you were doing that in your kitchen? Was the wife out?
Old May 1, 2014 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by NZSpokes
Thats some innovation going on right there.

But really you were doing that in your kitchen? Was the wife out?
I've used the oven to heat parts for assembly, wife wasn't too happy about that.
Old May 1, 2014 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Rear shim makes huge difference. Make a couple so you can try different thicknesses.

You can use my patented cadcam design and laser cut system.
I especially like the clamp on the channel locks to hold everything down!
Old May 1, 2014 | 08:35 AM
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Its NYC. Its either kitchen or busy street. Easier to plug in jigsaw in kitchen.

I was a full time racer when I met my wife so she's cool with all of it. (true love).

Last edited by smokinjoe73; May 1, 2014 at 08:42 AM.
Old May 1, 2014 | 08:38 AM
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I've had to drive through NYC a few times when I lived upstate, little brothers neurologist was out of NYC.. I don't think you could pay me enough to live there
Old May 1, 2014 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Rear shim makes huge difference. Make a couple so you can try different thicknesses.

You can use my patented cadcam design and laser cut system.
That is the most ghetto thing I have seen on this forum in quite some time.
Old May 1, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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Yeah but if I lived in the sticks it would be redneck instead of ghetto.
Old May 1, 2014 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Yeah but if I lived in the sticks it would be redneck instead of ghetto.


Argument won...
Old May 1, 2014 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorjerry
Argument won...
Could've been"Shadetree"...
Old May 1, 2014 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by twist
I upgraded the bearings to all ***** bearings, roller bearings. The difference is noticeable!
My OE's were shot when I did the AllBalls switch as well. Very noticeable difference! I'd say definitely do the shim mod, then save up for a fork re-spring. You thought the bearings made an improvement.
Old May 1, 2014 | 04:58 PM
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Same here, the new roller bearings move a lot more freely than the old bearings. Joe's setup is too high tech for me. I'll just put some bricks on the channel-locks to hold them in place.
Old May 1, 2014 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
My OE's were shot when I did the AllBalls switch as well. Very noticeable difference! I'd say definitely do the shim mod, then save up for a fork re-spring. You thought the bearings made an improvement.
I have the springs from Jamie, I think I want to do the re-valve too, should have done it when I did the springs.
Old May 1, 2014 | 05:04 PM
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I just finished the same mod today. I will test the Hawk tomorrow. I was shocked by the difference between the All ***** bearing and the stock bearing. Here is a pic
Attached Thumbnails steering head bearings-all-balls-bearing.jpg  
Old May 20, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Does anyone have a size for the taper roller head bearing? I intend to get it from my local bearing shop. to ship in all ***** bearings are too costly for me.
Old May 21, 2014 | 06:56 AM
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Be aware that those bottom triple bearings will really not want to come off.

Be sure to have some different flathead screwdrivers and chisels. And go with millions of tiny taps. (Assuming you are doing it by hand).

Heat the frame to get the new ones in and put the races in the freezer the night before.
Old May 22, 2014 | 06:31 AM
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Speaking as a tech for the past 11 years I would never make ay money doing it that way. First you need a rotatory tool of some sort. Air or electric doesn't matter. Use a cut off wheel attachment to cut into the inner race on stem, being careful not to cut into stem, as deep as possible. Then with lower triple set on a hard surface, use a chisel, in the slot, and hammer to crack the race the rest of the way. The race will slide right off. With experience it takes 5 min. Then save the race to help drive the new bearing on.
Old May 22, 2014 | 06:58 AM
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So you are saying cut and split the race off the lower triple?
Old May 22, 2014 | 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Ons'Ro
Speaking as a tech for the past 11 years I would never make ay money doing it that way. First you need a rotatory tool of some sort. Air or electric doesn't matter. Use a cut off wheel attachment to cut into the inner race on stem, being careful not to cut into stem, as deep as possible. Then with lower triple set on a hard surface, use a chisel, in the slot, and hammer to crack the race the rest of the way. The race will slide right off. With experience it takes 5 min. Then save the race to help drive the new bearing on.
+1
Old May 22, 2014 | 07:03 AM
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Yes
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