So, to be clear... This part will fix a potential broken plastic choke part, but does not neccesarily take care of the original problem posted above... correct?

I do appreciate you adding things to my winter project list though

James

 

Well, sorta. Like I said the choke cable is finicky so a crack or an issues with the cables (kink etc) will constantly cause a rich condition. You should at least check the parts but in my days with this bike, they always fail in some maybe non-obvious ways.

Even bumping it installing the carbs can mess it up so then what do you do? Abort the job and take the bus?

Its cheap easy insurance.

As you do it you will get a chance to clean and lube the plungers to also maybe solve the above issue (whatever the real cause).

 

Got it. Thanks.

James

 

How many of you guys think my first post could be repated to having #48 pilots installed?

James

 

Maybe but I think not. I had similar issues with 45s installed and saw no difference with 48s.

 

So... I was hoping that syncing my carbs would help this issue, but it has not. My bike will not run at all during cold startup. It runs for about 15 seconds with enrichener **** all the way out, then idle drops down to nothing, shutting the bike off. I tried slowly pushing the enrichener **** in as it dies, but that helps it die faster.

The only way i can get the bike to restart is by giving it gas while hitting the start button. Even then i have to babysit it, revving it up over and over again until it reads about 110 degrees...

If someone could please help me with this i would be very greatful. My setup is in my sig.

James

 

Did you have this problem before you installed those brass choke fittings?

 

Yes.

I have not tried Seafoam yet, but i am skeptical as I blew the carb passages out when i had the carbs off...

James

 

You verified the choke cable is not broken and the choke is doing what it is supposed to do in the carbs? To me, it possibly sounds like one carb is being choked and not the other, or both are being choked, but only slightly. Just my thoughts.

 

When i had the cable off the carbs i pulled the **** in and out and verified both needles are moving, yes.

James

 

Sorry if I missed it but did you remove and clean the carbs? That is what you really need to do. Just disassemble them one at a time to not mix stuff up.

As you are doing this check very closely the choke tubes for cracks.

 

I blew the carbs out with carb cleaner when i had them off. Nozzle spray through the little tube right into all the jets and orifices. I also cleaned the bowls.

No way i have cracking as i installed the brass choke nuts

James

 

Did you remove each jet, slow speed, etc to clean the tiny holes or did you leave everything in place. In my experience you are never going to get them clean in place. you need to physicaly clean the orafaces and remove every jet.

I would also drain the tank dry (shake it upside down etc) and start with fresh gas. That would remove a variable.

I also resorted to running filters which can only help greatly.

 

Yes, did that. I'm very familiar with jets because i've had a lot of dirtbikes, got a lot of experience cleaning mains, pilots, etc.

The bike runs and idles fine when warm. Actually once it hits about 110 degrees it runs on its own fine (with enrichener **** in).

I doubt its a gas tank issue. It's been doing this for some time. I ride it about 50 miles a week minimum.

James

 

I can report similar issue to what James describes even with brand new pilot jets. I do not think dirty pilot jets are the main issue but perhaps dirty ones would contribute as my cold running issue is not quite as bad he describes here.

 

Yeah, I had that issue but after removing an carefully cleaning and soaking each jet in carb cleaner, the bike started cold with no choke at all til it got really cold (below 40F).

Have you done anything to the fuel mixture screws?

 

Very hard to say what is going on without seeing the bike.
Sounds like it is rich down low for some reason but again without seeing it very hard to tell.

Does the choke pull out easily or is it kind of hard to pull out?

If it is hard check the cable routing and also the tube where it splits from 1 into 2. Make sure the rubber caps are pushed all the way onto the tube.

Also how old is your air filter?

 

Choke is hard to pull out, but when i pull it out it stays out because i have the little nt pretty tight.

Checked the 2-1 cable and the boots are fine, plugged in well.

Also note one of the choke cable boots is ripped by the new brass nut.

Edit: Air Filter - honestly i havent changed it since i got the bike from my dad a couple years ago. It looks clean, i check it often, but i havent changed it... Hmmm, that could be an easy fix...

Edit #2: A new air filter is $43!!!!! Yikes!!!

James

 

On mine, if the choke is hard to pull out it means either one or both of the needles are hanging up and the reason it is hard to pull is that the springs are already a bit compressed when you start to pull it out.

Try to re-seat the enrichment needles and make sure they slide freely and seat all the way down when you install them.

 

Ok i will try that thanks!!!!

James

 

I removed the seat today, popped the two cotter pins on the front of the gas tank, and propped it up to work on the choke cables...

I pulled the rear one off and checked it, seemed okay. I followed the cable routing to the rear carb and noticed i had routed the cable in a pretty tight loop around the FRONT of the rear cylinder, then routed up to the rear carb on the left side of the bike... I changed that so now the cable is routed around the right side of the rear cylinder, coming to the rear carb from over the top of the carb. See pics to make sense of what i am saying...

The cable is still hard to pull, but it could be how tight i have the knurled nut by the mounting bracket... I will also check the front cable later this week, remove it and make sure it looks good.

I will also order an air filter tonight on Amazon Prime ($21 Emgo), plus there is a full tank of gas mixed with seafoam... I'm attempting to try all the suggestions here

James

 

Pic 2

 

Pic 3

 

Pic 4

 

Pic 5

 

Seems to work a little better after changing the choke cable routing. I have a new air filter on the way, but it's not installed at this point.

I wish i had caught it in time before it shut off, and pushed the **** in a bit, it may have stayed running.

This is actually the best it's done in a long time It was about 67 degrees out when this video was made.

http://youtu.be/wzM2sCjrejU

Feedback? Thoughts?

James

 

Here is how my choke cables are routed. Just for reference.

EDIT: Seems we posted at the same time. I will check out your video.

Hmmm...about your video James, seems it is private.

 

Try it now.

My cable routing now looks the same. It didn't before...

James

 

It sounds as it should with the choke pulled right when you start it. Buy, it starts to die pretty darn quick. It now very well could be a combination of a shitty air filter and gummed up carbs.

 

Changed the air filter yesterday.

Will try and start it cold on Sunday and give a full report.

James