shims
#2
It's not too hard. Get some .040" thick washers for a #10 fastener at your local hardware store. They should fit under the head of the stock needle. This will move them out away from the jet which will richen up the mixture over the rev range it controls. That range is the midrange and off-on throttle portions only.
#6
Brass is nice, but stainless steel works too. Don't use plain ol' steel though.
#8
IIRC shimming from .26 to .60 is about the range needed depending on your particular bike.
Mine carbs are still stock with aftermarket exhaust and is just a bit lean in the midrange (slight rpm hunting at ~4000 rpm and constant throttle, but not much)
Mine carbs are still stock with aftermarket exhaust and is just a bit lean in the midrange (slight rpm hunting at ~4000 rpm and constant throttle, but not much)
#12
#13
#14
#16
#17
That's from PAIR.. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=9875
#19
relative to the carbs, I drilled the largest holes i could around the outer ring of the pipe rear leaving only small amt of metal holding it between holes. Sounds good but not obnoxious.
put .40" shims on needles(remove the little OEM washer).
turned the carbs over far enough to back out the air mix screws with a modified tweezers just far enough to slot them with a dremel and set them at 2 1/4 turns out with a screw driver.
cut paper filter out with a cutting wheel and put foam filter treated with filter oil and sealed with filter grease(KN)
no jet kit.
plug wire resistors removed. PAIR removed
runs good, no popping on decel as before/
haven't sync'd the carbs yet but will eventually/
You can look at color of plugs and pipe ends and tell quickly if you're too rich.
thanks, nathan
#21
make sure you set the TPS between 450-500ohm while you're in there.
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