Hawkrider

How-To Remove The PAIR Emissions Equipment




This procedure requires a level of mechanical ability and you may screw it up. I take no responsibility for the effectiveness of this procedure and by doing it you assume all responsibility for the consequences. Now, on with the show...




Now why on earth would you want to start tearing emissions controls off your bike? Well for one, if you have aftermarket exhaust, you will get a rather annoying (to some, cool to others) popping sound on deceleration. The other reason is that you hate the extra 0.872 lb. on your bike. Well, I won't go into that now. There's a third reason, too. It *could* make the bike run hotter due to the extra "combustion" taking place. I think that's near impossible because the combustion occurs in the header, but some believe they have positive proof that it runs cooler. As they say, YMMV. Happy wrenching!







The Pulse secondary AIR injection system takes air from the airbox, via a vacuum-operated control valve, and injects it through the two PAIR check valves (located on each valve cover) into the hot exhaust gas. The oxygen in the air allows any unburnt fuel to ignite (which it will because it's still hot as hell). The control valve opens on deceleration, when vacuum is at its highest. The PAIR check valves are reed-type valves and only allow flow into the heads. There is a "reed stopper" which prevents the metal reed from opening too far and thus permanently bending. It's a relatively simple system.

1. Remove the seat and tank (and PLEASE mark the vacuum/vent/fuel lines to the tank so you can remember which way to reinstall them!!!)
2. Remove the rubber hoses going to each PAIR valve.
3. Remove the two bolts holding each PAIR valve in place.
4. Remove the PAIR valves.
5. You will see a small screw holding the reed stopper and reed in place. Remove the screw, flip the reed stopper to hold the reed shut, and replace the screw..
6. Put everything back together (3.6 ft-lb on the PAIR valve bolts)

Now, if you're one of those guys/gals who is happy being fat (me), and really doesn't care to diet (me), but still wants to lose every .05 ounces of weight off the bike because it'll make you .00001 seconds quicker in the quarter mile, but you can still feel the increased acceleration by the "seat of the pants", plus it makes the bike handle sooooo much better (not me, but I did it anyway ), follow the next few steps to remove the rest of the PAIR plumbing.

1. Go to auto parts store and buy an assortment of small rubber vacuum caps and the larger ~3/4" dia. "coolant block-off caps". I found mine at Advance.
2. Remove the seat and tank.
3. Remove the airbox cover and airbox lower. Note that you must remove the air funnels. The longer one is on the rear.
4. Disconnect all the hoses one by one that attach to the airbox, engine, and carbs.
5. Replace each one with an appropriately sized rubber cap as you go. IIRC, there is one screw holding the control valve to the airbox.
6. Yank the whole thing as one assembly.
7. You will now be able to go faster and lean further than ever before now that all that excess weight is gone!
8. Put everything back together.

I hope this has been helpful and informative to all those do-it-yourselfers out there. Oh yeah, I take no responsibility whatsoever if you screw this up or drop little screws into your carb throats.

Scooberhawk

This step is holding me up. Do you really have a screw, or is it a little nut? I ride an '05, so I wonder if mine could be different. I've got this 6- or 8-mm nut, that is surrounded by what I assume is the reed stopper (black, plastic-y..), with the reed in the middle recessed 3/16" or so. I'm glad I was gentle with the reed, because it was fairly flimsy.

Anyway, is this an '05 thing, or am I taking off the wrong cover (took off the rear one too; same image), or would you have other insight to offer?


Note: when I wrote "surrounded by.. ..reed stopper," it's because there is no room for the nut to turn because of the cover (reed stopper) completely surrounding the nut; i.e. I doubt I could apply enough force to turn the nut now, much less grind through the cover. .. I took a picture..

Hawkrider

This is what you're looking for....

Scooberhawk

Yes! That is exactly what I needed. I didn't realize the PAIR valve was completely surrounded by the rubber gasket, and had to be pulled out somehow. I was confused when the rubber wouldn't pull off. I didn't want to rip it. Anyway, I ended up sticking a utensil in the reed hole to pry the valve off. Super easy; go figure. Thanks again, Greg!

trinity012