Radiator Fan question
07-05-2009, 02:55 PM
#1
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Radiator Fan question
I pulled a rock out of my fan that had jammed it. i replaced the fan fuse as it was blown.
now i have a question. the fan still does not come on at any temp. i can freely spin the fan by hand. should i be able to? is this a clutch engaged fan and spins free when not engaged or is this a fan that should not spin when not powered?
now i have a question. the fan still does not come on at any temp. i can freely spin the fan by hand. should i be able to? is this a clutch engaged fan and spins free when not engaged or is this a fan that should not spin when not powered?
07-05-2009, 03:48 PM
#2
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Couple things might have happened. The motor spun the shaft or if the shaft didn't spin it might have killed the motor. Either way it's got to come out. It's a PITA if you do it with the cowling in place but it can be done.
07-05-2009, 03:54 PM
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ok. so the fan should not free hand spin like it is now once the jamming item has been removed?
07-05-2009, 04:01 PM
#4
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Not sure if the fan should spin freely, but I am willing to bet the electric motor is shoot. Electric motors need to run in order to keep themselves from over heating, and with a rock jammed the engine was trying to spin but couldn't.
07-05-2009, 04:19 PM
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07-05-2009, 04:22 PM
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1 more question. for us old school year 98 temp gauge hawk owners..at what portion should the fan kick in. i mean it should come on before the red line on the temp gauge right?
07-05-2009, 04:38 PM
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Mine comes on when the needle points straight ahead or up. This is also about the time my inner thighs feel like they're being prepared for dinner. Parts of the nursery hit 113.5F this afternoon. It's only July, it will be nice in August. I was out on my Superhawk today. It was hot in traffic and I was back at 1300 - the real heat set in after I was back. Hot weather underwear and good mesh really help beat the heat.
07-05-2009, 04:42 PM
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Mine comes on when the needle points straight ahead or up. This is also about the time my inner thighs feel like they're being prepared for dinner. Parts of the nursery hit 113.5F this afternoon. It's only July, it will be nice in August. I was out on my Superhawk today. It was hot in traffic and I was back at 1300 - the real heat set in after I was back. Hot weather underwear and good mesh really help beat the heat.
lol and hot weather underwear? wtf is that? they have a place to slide in a frozen gel pack or some thing?
07-05-2009, 05:17 PM
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ok that makes two of you then. enough for me to pull it all apart then. just didnt want to pull it apart and find out it comes on like at the red. mine has been up over 3/4ths on the gauge like right under red and nothing happens.
i will pull it and put power to it since that is a great suggestion and first place to start before moving on to other areas of the bike. thank you all for the suggestions and the info on how yours performs.
50
i will pull it and put power to it since that is a great suggestion and first place to start before moving on to other areas of the bike. thank you all for the suggestions and the info on how yours performs.
50
07-05-2009, 05:26 PM
#12
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Its pretty straight forward, its a light armature DC motor with very little mechanical resistance. If it blew the fan circuit fuse, its very possible the small-guage windings have burned open somewhere in the motor.
07-05-2009, 05:32 PM
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Thank you CB i always appreciate your insight into things sparky. you always have good insight into these areas. i love to know how things work so thank you for the mental image of the fan internals.
07-05-2009, 05:34 PM
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ahh hey CB curiosity on my part but..if the winding internally are small and they burn at and around the same time as the stock 10 amp fuse.. would it be wise to drop down to say maybe a 5 amp if this does happen to be true that the windings did in fact burn?
07-05-2009, 05:43 PM
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Well, that would only verify anything if the windings were still a closed circuit.
If the windings have burned open, it will have zero current draw, and wouldnt even blow a .5 amp fuse.
But I see the logic.
If the windings have burned open, it will have zero current draw, and wouldnt even blow a .5 amp fuse.
But I see the logic.
07-05-2009, 06:11 PM
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ohh no i meant in the future for a new fan. what fuse size in your opinion would absolutely blow before any fan damage would occur to the windings?
07-05-2009, 06:19 PM
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The engineers had the rating right, 10 amps is fine.
A physically blocked fan is going to be trouble no matter what.
Going to a 5 amp fuse in case of more rocks, would be a solution, but you increase the chance of blowing the fuse in normal (non rock) conditions.
I dont think the benfit there would outweigh the safety of normal fan operation.
A physically blocked fan is going to be trouble no matter what.
Going to a 5 amp fuse in case of more rocks, would be a solution, but you increase the chance of blowing the fuse in normal (non rock) conditions.
I dont think the benfit there would outweigh the safety of normal fan operation.
07-05-2009, 06:23 PM
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The engineers had the rating right, 10 amps is fine.
A physically blocked fan is going to be trouble no matter what.
Going to a 5 amp fuse in case of more rocks, would be a solution, but you increase the chance of blowing the fuse in normal (non rock) conditions.
I dont think the benfit there would outweigh the safety of normal fan operation.
A physically blocked fan is going to be trouble no matter what.
Going to a 5 amp fuse in case of more rocks, would be a solution, but you increase the chance of blowing the fuse in normal (non rock) conditions.
I dont think the benfit there would outweigh the safety of normal fan operation.
07-05-2009, 10:25 PM
#20
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The fuse should blow before the motor burns up. That's the whole point of it being there. Check to make sure the fuse hasn't blown again, and that you have good continuity across the fuse you put in.
07-07-2009, 03:25 PM
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i pulled off the fairing's removed the fan and housing and took it down to have it tested. fan works.
i go home check the fuse to see if it has blown again and it had not, so i swap the 10 amp starter fuse and the 10 amp fan fuse(because i know the bike starts so that fuse is good for sure) and reassemble. i also notice the wire on the radiator sensor was stressed to the max and cracked open at the rubber boot housing. i turned it over and routed it for a little bit of slack.
i kick the bike over and watch it warm. and like clock work she kicks on at just above the 1/2 way line. so either i had a loose/dirty connection or a gremlin in the fan. either way problem solved for now.
Thank you all for the help and suggestions. and i am glad it was minor. but i have to say the fairing removal is a real pain in the ***. well not the take off but the putting it back. uhhhggg so much easier if i had a second set of hands for it. i am missing some of trim clips underneath the light that pin it together and give stability, and it was very floppy.
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