Question about pulse generators.
#1
Question about pulse generators.
First and foremost, thanks Mike for coming down and looking at my sick SH. You certainly pointed me in the right direction.
Now to my question, is the center pole on the pulse generator supposed to be grounded to the mounting tabs inside the case?
If it is then someone explain to me how this creates a pulse, please =)
Now to my question, is the center pole on the pulse generator supposed to be grounded to the mounting tabs inside the case?
If it is then someone explain to me how this creates a pulse, please =)
#4
Are you talking about the crank angle sensor / pulse generator?
It's just an electrode surrounded by plastic, right? It is not connected to ground. That would be a short.
Maybe I don't understand the question...
It's just an electrode surrounded by plastic, right? It is not connected to ground. That would be a short.
Maybe I don't understand the question...
#5
Pulse generator pictured and I have cont. from center pole to ground.
Logic tells me that this is a simple electromagnetic coil pickup, and therefore, when the center post passes over the 3/4 disk with the pickup points on it, it makes a current (.7v according to service manual) then gets sent to ecu/ICM, gets bumped up to 100+V, sent to coils, and it's spun up to sparking voltage.
But if the center pole is grounded (shorted) then the 0.7v would just get sent to ground instead of ecu/icm and stopping the entire process.
I'm just posting to double check my logic here because I've sunk too much money into this problem as is.
#6
It would make sense with the problem you are having.
Though we need Tweety to show up and tell us the answer......
I'll pull out my wiring diagram to see what I can find but I really don't think it should go to ground there.
Though we need Tweety to show up and tell us the answer......
I'll pull out my wiring diagram to see what I can find but I really don't think it should go to ground there.
#7
So that's as far as I got. Now he is just trying to prove the part good or bad before buying yet another replacement part.
#11
I see what you mean. It's probably a coil, in which case it will have continuity to ground.
to test it, you need to measure the peak output voltage, while cranking the engine.
On an RC51 the peak output voltage is 0.7V minimum. check your manual for the VTR. You'll need a high impedence digital multimeter (10Mohm/DCV).
to test it, you need to measure the peak output voltage, while cranking the engine.
On an RC51 the peak output voltage is 0.7V minimum. check your manual for the VTR. You'll need a high impedence digital multimeter (10Mohm/DCV).
#12
I see what you mean. It's probably a coil, in which case it will have continuity to ground.
to test it, you need to measure the peak output voltage, while cranking the engine.
On an RC51 the peak output voltage is 0.7V minimum. check your manual for the VTR. You'll need a high impedence digital multimeter (10Mohm/DCV).
to test it, you need to measure the peak output voltage, while cranking the engine.
On an RC51 the peak output voltage is 0.7V minimum. check your manual for the VTR. You'll need a high impedence digital multimeter (10Mohm/DCV).
So the way that I'm looking at it, is that the center pole is what is creating the charge, so if that is also grounded, that completes the circuit because the electricity will find the easiest way to ground, and that would be inherently, through the case it is mounted too.
And I built a peak voltage tester.... kinda (used a capacitor and diode), and I didn't register any spark despite having it set up correctly. I don't think that there's any other way to test it. Unless I could use a low voltage LED and just use that as a signal checker and not necessarily as a peak.
To recap what's been checked:
- Entire ignition wiring (according to wiring diagram: checked resistance and continuity)
- Switches
- Coils
- Sparkplugs
- ECU/ICM (thanks once again mike) I have 2 working sets
And I just looked at the connector side of the unit, and it appears that I don't have continuity between either of the wires in the connector or anywhere on the pickup post.
If you've removed every wrong answer, the only solution left is the right one.
It is an electric part, so it hypothetically could have just shat the bed. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen a fluke like that.
But Tweety, if you're out there, some input would be awesome =)
Last edited by bass4dude; 05-04-2011 at 05:28 PM. Reason: addt. info
#13
Ok, I'm awake now... Mike poked me with a stick...
I couldn't make heads or tails of it either at first glance, so since I'm swapping oil this afternoon, I'm going to measure mine... Be back in a few hours with more...
I couldn't make heads or tails of it either at first glance, so since I'm swapping oil this afternoon, I'm going to measure mine... Be back in a few hours with more...
#16
If not I might just order OEM somewhere online just to go with something known good with zero miles haha. Most longevity for the money =)
#17
Well, my working one isn't grounded to the pin... So that kind of starts the next line of questions... Can't really tell you more than that though, or at least nothing that hasn't already been said by the rest of you guys...
#18
Looks like I get to pull the dremel tool out and cut this puppy open to see what it looks like on the inside *insert maniacal laugh* BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
But thanks for all the input guys, I'm gonna order the parts today and hopefully we shall have joyous noise when I get the parts!
But thanks for all the input guys, I'm gonna order the parts today and hopefully we shall have joyous noise when I get the parts!
#19
Thanks for checking...... you know this electrical stuff is still all FM to me.... but I could find nothing else wrong with my basic troubleshooting skills.
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