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Pulling the Alternator flywheel

Old 09-23-2006, 04:23 PM
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Pulling the Alternator flywheel

Has anyone done it on the SH?
I need to purchase the flywheel holder, and puller and I was wondering if anyone could recomend where to buy the tools.
Thanks
-Mickey
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Old 09-23-2006, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mick-e
Has anyone done it on the SH?
I need to purchase the flywheel holder, and puller and I was wondering if anyone could recomend where to buy the tools.
Thanks
-Mickey
Try http://www.motionpro.com/ I do not see one listed on the web site,, but do know they have more tools then what they list.
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Old 09-28-2006, 04:25 AM
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It is an interference fit, so watch it when you pull it off. They can come off with a bang and take ten years off your life span!!
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Old 09-30-2006, 12:43 AM
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The puller's not very expensive from Honda. Maybe $35. then you'll have it in our toolbox. Works on other engines too. I use a dead-blow hammer. A couple gentle knocks and it's loose. You can use a shop rag to jam the primary drive gears (on the other side of the engine), but it's not really necessary on the flywheel. there's enough inertia and friction there to loosen it with just a dead blow.
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Old 09-30-2006, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RCVTR
The puller's not very expensive from Honda. Maybe $35. then you'll have it in our toolbox. Works on other engines too. I use a dead-blow hammer. A couple gentle knocks and it's loose. You can use a shop rag to jam the primary drive gears (on the other side of the engine), but it's not really necessary on the flywheel. there's enough inertia and friction there to loosen it with just a dead blow.
Part Number: 07933-3290001
Description PULLER DYNAMO
Price $7.16
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Old 09-30-2006, 11:16 AM
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Wow, that's way cheaper than I remembered. Lost in a pile of engine part purchases.

You will need to pull the right cover off and jam the primary gears to remove the bolt. The torque on it is quite high. Make sure you retorque it properly. Very important on a taper fit.
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Old 09-30-2006, 02:17 PM
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Hey RC, why not just put it in gear and hit it with an air rattle gun? That is what I did and the nut came off easily with no undue load on the gearbox. That would be much easier than removing the clutch cover.

It has been a long time since I removed mine, am I forgetting something?
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Old 09-30-2006, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by shayne
Hey RC, why not just put it in gear and hit it with an air rattle gun? That is what I did and the nut came off easily with no undue load on the gearbox. That would be much easier than removing the clutch cover.

It has been a long time since I removed mine, am I forgetting something?
Skip the trans in gear. Using a good air gun, that nut will come off every time.. And if you ask a dozen older techs ,,, and they don't lie to you... You'll find they do it the same way...
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Old 09-30-2006, 04:51 PM
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Sounds good. That's how I take the clutch off.
I personally like the idea of using a torque wrench to reinstall though. And you'll have to prevent the engine from turning to do that. I'm sure lots of techs don't worry about it and just gun it tight.
I was doing the whole motor when I did mine.
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Old 09-30-2006, 09:05 PM
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Yeah, torquing it back up again was a bit of a mission. I had it in gear for that. I didn't need to do that to remove it with the rattle gun.
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Old 10-02-2006, 01:21 PM
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Well, using a rattle gun is how I get the flywheel off my EX500 racer, but I tried it on this and it didn't work. I do have a 1/2 drive gun that I could try, but I need a 1/2 drive socket.
That's probably worht a try.
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Old 10-16-2006, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mick-e View Post
Well, using a rattle gun is how I get the flywheel off my EX500 racer, but I tried it on this and it didn't work. I do have a 1/2 drive gun that I could try, but I need a 1/2 drive socket.
That's probably worht a try.
make that a 3/4" drive, and it came right off.
Now I need to get the damn flywheel off.

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Old 11-05-2006, 03:35 PM
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After I bought the $7 Honda tool the flywheel came right off.
When I pulled the starter wheel off the back of the flywheel the sprag clutch literally fell off in pieces.
I'm attaching a photo of the assembled pieces.
After putting in a new sprag clutch, and bolting everything back on the bike started right up.
I live in the city, and this bike is my daily commuter so it's hard to say how many times I've started the engine but I bet it's a lot more than most bikes with 60,000+ miles.
So to those of you with high mileage bikes if you start to hear a "crunchy" sound when you hit the starter button it's time to change the sprag clutch.
-Mickey

now it's time to swap those carbs, but that's for another thread!
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