Problems after removing Evap and PAIR
#1
Problems after removing Evap and PAIR
Hi SH forums,
The PO removed the evap canister on my 'race' bike, so I decided to go ahead and remove the rest of the evap system and get rid of PAIR while im at it. When I put the bike back together, it only ran on one cylinder and 2 would kick in intermittently. Some would say it runs like '****'. Upon opening the bike back up, there was a puddle of gasoline in the airbox. The bike ran almost perfect before this. If it aint broke, dont fix it, but I broke it so now I have to fix it.
Evap removal notes:
When removing the evap stuff, I capped the two extra fittings on the sides of the carbs and the tube on the bottom of the front carb. I left both vent tubes at the top of the carbs open.
PAIR removal notes:
When removing PAIR, I flipped both reed valves and capped the fittings. I capped the vacuum line and tucked it aside to use for carb syncing later. I also capped the hole in the airbox.
Help requested:
Any ideas on what to check before putting it back together? I can provide more info as needed.
Thanks all,
Nathan
The PO removed the evap canister on my 'race' bike, so I decided to go ahead and remove the rest of the evap system and get rid of PAIR while im at it. When I put the bike back together, it only ran on one cylinder and 2 would kick in intermittently. Some would say it runs like '****'. Upon opening the bike back up, there was a puddle of gasoline in the airbox. The bike ran almost perfect before this. If it aint broke, dont fix it, but I broke it so now I have to fix it.
Evap removal notes:
When removing the evap stuff, I capped the two extra fittings on the sides of the carbs and the tube on the bottom of the front carb. I left both vent tubes at the top of the carbs open.
PAIR removal notes:
When removing PAIR, I flipped both reed valves and capped the fittings. I capped the vacuum line and tucked it aside to use for carb syncing later. I also capped the hole in the airbox.
Help requested:
Any ideas on what to check before putting it back together? I can provide more info as needed.
Thanks all,
Nathan
#3
I capped the vacuum line for the front cylinder. Left the rear one hooked up to the petcock. Does gas in the airbox mean the bike is running rich?
Note: Last night I added the evap stuff back but the idle acts a little weird now... lower than before.
Note: Last night I added the evap stuff back but the idle acts a little weird now... lower than before.
#4
Solved
I figured it out. Removing the evap stuff somehow changed the mixture, making the bike run too rich at low rpms and lowering the idle.
Solution: I lowered the needles and now im running the dynojet recommended settings for this setup (oem filter and pipes). I needed to raise the idle slightly and now the bike runs as good as before.
Hope this helps anybody with a similar problem in the future.
EDIT: NOT SOLVED
Solution: I lowered the needles and now im running the dynojet recommended settings for this setup (oem filter and pipes). I needed to raise the idle slightly and now the bike runs as good as before.
Hope this helps anybody with a similar problem in the future.
EDIT: NOT SOLVED
Last edited by nrowah; 01-02-2018 at 08:31 PM. Reason: turns out i didnt solve it yet
#5
Spoke too soon
I spoke way too soon. Bike is still boggy from starts and the choke doesnt act like it used to. Engine braking doesnt feel right as well.
I checked with carb cleaner and all the vacuum caps I used are leaking somehow. Anybody know a good way to cap vacuum fittings? This is a mess
I checked with carb cleaner and all the vacuum caps I used are leaking somehow. Anybody know a good way to cap vacuum fittings? This is a mess
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