No power!
05-24-2010, 06:42 PM
#1
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Location: Colorado
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No power!
Hey, Im a new member in search of some help. I just bought a 2003 Hawk with a dead battery. I push started it and rode it home. I tested the battery and it was dead so i went to batteries plus and got a new one. I hooked it up and there is still no power at all. I turn the ignition on and nothing works. no horn no lights Nothing. I checked all the fuses in the box and the seem fine. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks.
05-24-2010, 07:47 PM
#5
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I didnt charge the new battery. And I apologize Im still new to this. What does r/r stand for? I assume its a relay. And is the main fuse under the tail plastic or the front fairing? You guys are helping me out a ton. This is my first bike and it is torture just having it sit in the garage.
05-24-2010, 07:49 PM
#6
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Tail, two plastic screws on the bottom side, two metal screws by the taillight under the seat, two allen-head screws by the tank.
R/R stands for regulator/rectifier. If it's fried then your best option (IMO) is an R6 unit swap. Will require soldering or at the least heat-shrink connectors and some minor drilling/grinding of the stock holes on the new R/R.
R/R stands for regulator/rectifier. If it's fried then your best option (IMO) is an R6 unit swap. Will require soldering or at the least heat-shrink connectors and some minor drilling/grinding of the stock holes on the new R/R.
05-24-2010, 08:00 PM
#7
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if PW's RR was fried, and the battery was dead, he would not have been able to bump it or ride it home. see if your new battery will take a charge and try again, use a good charger like a Battery Tender, not a cheap one.
Last edited by residentg; 05-25-2010 at 04:01 AM.
05-24-2010, 08:05 PM
#8
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I push started it to get it home. I found the fuse which i will mess with tomorrow. It looks like there is an extra fuse. Why dont you recommend replacing the r/r with an oem unit?
05-24-2010, 09:13 PM
#10
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05-25-2010, 05:06 AM
#14
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Yes, there is a way to test it, but if you are not electronically minded, it'll be a pain in the rear end. Easiest thing to do is charge the battery. At rest, the battery should be at 12.4 to 12.8 volts in order to start the bike. I assume you've checked and replaced the main fuse if it was out. Start the bike and once running, check the voltage at the battery again. it should be reading at least low 13s if the Reg/Rec is working properly. You should check it at idle, and also at about 3000 RPM. It's basically just like checking a car battery and alternator. If everything is reading properly, you are good to go. If readings are low, I would recommend replacing the R/R. it'll cost less than 100 bucks and is most generally the cause of charging problems.
The newer models of Honda R/Rs for the SH have fins on them. Older ones are just a small box with no fins. The Yamaha R6 and R1 models are a bit larger, but have very good fins for heat disipation. If you do a search on the forum you'll find lots of information on them.
The newer models of Honda R/Rs for the SH have fins on them. Older ones are just a small box with no fins. The Yamaha R6 and R1 models are a bit larger, but have very good fins for heat disipation. If you do a search on the forum you'll find lots of information on them.
05-25-2010, 05:40 AM
#15
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Same place I got mine (thank you 8541 as you put that in another post) and it uses same bolt holes but yo uneed to get longer screws by about 1/4 inch. Also this R/R is plug and play so if you are not too mechanically saavy this would be your best option.
05-25-2010, 08:48 AM
#18
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Im sorry i spoke too soon. what i meant to say is that my buddy is bringing his multimeter over tonight and i will check the voltage. Then order a new Finned r/r if needed. A little bit of additional information, when I was riding the bike the gauges were turning off and on constantly. i dont know if just a blown fuse would cause this to happen or not. And is there a trick to getting that fuse out? I dont want to yank on it too hard. It looks like you have to disconnect a plug at the same time.
05-25-2010, 08:49 AM
#19
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05-25-2010, 09:07 AM
#20
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good point Lazn.
Shadow, as for the fuse, if your bike was running at all, the main fuse is not the problem. Most likely it was low voltage that was causing the bike to act up. Now the question is if it's just the battery, or the R/R.
...or it could be the stator, but have never had a problem with any of mine. That's why I always guess R/R first.
Shadow, as for the fuse, if your bike was running at all, the main fuse is not the problem. Most likely it was low voltage that was causing the bike to act up. Now the question is if it's just the battery, or the R/R.
...or it could be the stator, but have never had a problem with any of mine. That's why I always guess R/R first.
05-25-2010, 09:14 AM
#21
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well i will check the voltage tonight. It seems like everyone is having the same r/r problem. If the voltage is out of wack is there a way to differentiate if it is the stator or r/r. Or would you just recommend replacing the r/r?
05-25-2010, 09:27 AM
#22
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How to test your stator: http://www.tiny-media.org/motovoltage/tech.htm
05-25-2010, 02:27 PM
#24
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1. Go to Knowledge Base section and download workshop manual.
2. Read the section about testing and follow testing procedure. Do not short circuit (no pun intended) the procedure, it is logical and will give the correct outcome for part replacement.
3. Replace parts necessary.
4. Ride.
2. Read the section about testing and follow testing procedure. Do not short circuit (no pun intended) the procedure, it is logical and will give the correct outcome for part replacement.
3. Replace parts necessary.
4. Ride.
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