Hey everyone,

Last weekend I recently pulled the trigger on a VTR1000F. The price was excellent, the overall condition was good, and I took it home. Beautiful bike, and I can't wait to get riding it this season after learning for the last two years on a 1982 Yamaha Maxim 400.

Besides the standard fare of needing new tires for an Ontario certification, I've realized that not only have the turn signals / rear fender been heavily modified and deleted, but now I'm having wonky electrical gremlins that I wouldn't even begin to know where to diagnose. I'm used to the brutal simplicity of the Yamaha.

I knew I was going to need to replace the front left turn signal in some capacity as it wasn't working. After the ride home, I now have only 1/4 turn indicators working, with one of the cheap rear indicator caps actually falling off mid-ride.

I've done basic mechanical work but electrical is an entirely new dimension for me. I tried to take some readings with a voltmeter, and for some reason there's no current flow to the right front turn signal when I push the indicator for it. But when I indicate for the left front turn signal, it reads a full 12v. I had working rear tail indicators, but they've since gone out, and I'm not sure if that's from having to boost the bike (the battery wasn't holding charge) or if I've made something worse with my fidgeting.

I'll quit rambling - I need some help. I've attached the pictures below for reference.

Besides offering some electrical insight on where I could begin searching for my electrical gremlins, can anyone tell me what tail tidy modification was done, and what I can do to fix this rear taillight disaster so that it will pass an inspection?Any recommendations for front indicator swaps that will pass a safety inspection would be appreciated as well. I was told that cheap little side-mounted plastic things won't pass.

Album link: https://imgur.com/a/ms4T1ia

Thanks a ton!

 

Looks very heavilly hacked around

Standard bike has black plastic undertay (that hangs within the rear subrame) with mounting points for standard sticky outy stalked indicators / blinkers

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/hon...__2400/2/11510

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/hon...__2500/2/11510

Depends if you want to bodge on top of bodge or try and return closer to OEM - if latter option source what's required secondhand from eBay?

Have you tried taking bulbs out and cleaning them (or replacing) and connectors - along with cleaning and regregreasing with dielectric grease the switchgear. (be carfeful as diddly job to dismantle / reassemble)

Relatively unhacked around rear underneath bodywork

 

Hey Wicky, thanks for responding so quickly. That picture is really helpful.

A couple questions to follow up - I was really confused as to how much was swapped out with the fender because it has a keyslot underneath to pop the seat off. I've scouted out a few replacement rear fenders on ebay, but they don't come with a key / keyslot by the look of it. You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the fender from underneath by any chance would you?

I'm going to take the rear fairing off tonight and have a closer look at what's going on with the hackjob. We'll see if it's even possible to take back to OEM, which would be my goal. There's a huge duct-tape covered box on the inner fender that I assumed was a fusebox - If I'm right I guess it was relocated as it's where those two large plastic channel looking things are on yours.

I really appreciate the help so far.

 

The lock cylinder to release the seat is mounted in the stock, plastic under tray/fender. I imagine it was moved to your aftermarket under tray where you see it now. From what I've seen, aftermarket under trays come with a hole in which to mount the lock cylinder.

 

I may have missed it in your post but I didn’t see you specifically what the issues were? So if you can describe the electrical Gramlin issues you’re having doing that and perhaps I can point you to a starting area

Hopefully you have a multimeter or can borrow one as that’s pretty much a requirement to do electrical diagnostic work

 

I really appreciate all the feedback already! I'll be back with more pictures when I get a chance. The bike's stored in a friend's garage for the time being.

I appreciate the confirmation about the rear fender. I've ordered a used OEM piece from Japan which will probably show up sometime between the next three weeks and never.

The electrical gremlins are a bit hard to explain because I'm pretty ignorant regarding the whole subject. I'll hold off on that side of things until I get a chance to properly comb over the bike with a multimeter and some over the shoulder help. Hopefully tomorrow or Friday.

I'll start with the easier stuff first. The OEM rear fender I've purchased won't be coming with any rear turn signals. I'll pour through the forum to see if I can collect some ideas on good aftermarket replacements, but if anyone has any good recommendations for easily-adapted rear blinkers that'll fit onto an OEM fender mount, that would be amazing.

I've seen threads about three-wire to two-wire conversions for that sort of thing and I'd rather avoid that if possible. Any thoughts?

Thanks guys!

 

The 2/3 wire conversion is typically done to other than stock front blinkers that allow for running lights. The stock blinkers, both front and rear only allow use as blinkers only.

CBR1K rear blinkers fit with a little work (don't remember what year). The shape and lens color is much more attractive than stock. The wire connectors on the CBR1K blinkers are different than what stock is, but yours are probably hacked already.
Take a look here.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-doesnt-26231/

Get yourself a color copy of the wiring diagram, then try to put all back to stock as possible. Chasing around someone's poorly done hack job is a waste of time.

 

Not in the US at least, front marker lights stock are 3 wire and light anytime bike is on (5 watts), then light BRIGHTER when turn signal is used (21 watts)
The Stock light bulb upfront for all models is a dual filament 21/ 5 watt bulb.. Best I can see, all VTR models use this bulb so Id be surprised if all models are not 3 wire and made to use the marker / turn signal option unless a region does not allow for front marker lights
Its common to use only the turn signal hot and ground wire (so 2 of 3 wires) with aftermarket front lights as they are made for turn signal only, not marker.
a very simple mod using a diodes can turn a turn signal only light into a marker/ turn signal capable light ( so all 3 OEM wires and the lights 2 wires)

 

Thanks for the correction. It has been so long since I changed mine for some after market ones I forgot. I did the 2/3 wire on the lights in the mirrors and it all blended together. The brain doesn't work that well any more.