Connecting Rod Torque
#1
Connecting Rod Torque
Hello and thanks for an awesome site. I've been soaking up all the good stuff for some time now.
I got my second SuperHawk earlier this summer as a project/basket case. It's been sitting for over 10 years and I'm the third person to get the bike and parts. But I will be the last as I plan on keeping this one for some time.
Since I had the motor out and torn down I had the bore honed as well as new rings and connecting rod bolts. The manual calls for replacing them every time. I've never done that before but I'm going to keep this one so what's another $20 bucks.
Anyway the torque specs call for 14 lb ft + 120 degress. Does that mean that I should get to 14 lb then go another 3/4 turn? I've never seen specs. like this so it just seems a little odd. If you have any info it would be much appreciated.
From the manual: TORQUE: 20N m (2.0 kgfm . 14 Ibft) +120'
FYI: I have a second engine in nice condition that I tore down. I will have parts online soon but if you need anything shoot me an email. Thanks.
Doug
I got my second SuperHawk earlier this summer as a project/basket case. It's been sitting for over 10 years and I'm the third person to get the bike and parts. But I will be the last as I plan on keeping this one for some time.
Since I had the motor out and torn down I had the bore honed as well as new rings and connecting rod bolts. The manual calls for replacing them every time. I've never done that before but I'm going to keep this one so what's another $20 bucks.
Anyway the torque specs call for 14 lb ft + 120 degress. Does that mean that I should get to 14 lb then go another 3/4 turn? I've never seen specs. like this so it just seems a little odd. If you have any info it would be much appreciated.
From the manual: TORQUE: 20N m (2.0 kgfm . 14 Ibft) +120'
FYI: I have a second engine in nice condition that I tore down. I will have parts online soon but if you need anything shoot me an email. Thanks.
Doug
#4
14 ft-lbs basically tightens it to the point of contact between mating surfaces. 120 degrees then applies the proper bolt stretch. It take the bolt to the yield point - defined as the point where, if you release the tension, the bolt no longer returns to it's original length.
Be sure to apply grease to the threads and underside of the bolt head. This is true for all of the crankcase bolts, as well. With these bolts, you are relying on proper bolt tension from an applied torque, so it is critical to lubricate them.
Be sure to apply grease to the threads and underside of the bolt head. This is true for all of the crankcase bolts, as well. With these bolts, you are relying on proper bolt tension from an applied torque, so it is critical to lubricate them.
#5
how about a ford v6. I did a set of head gaskets and the updated torque spec, which had been x ftlbs + 90 degrees, was updated to 180 degrees. We had 2 people on the breaker bar to get it to even turn. Scary as hell. Must have been somewhere about 200 ftlbs.
#6
14 ft-lbs basically tightens it to the point of contact between mating surfaces. 120 degrees then applies the proper bolt stretch. It take the bolt to the yield point - defined as the point where, if you release the tension, the bolt no longer returns to it's original length.
Be sure to apply grease to the threads and underside of the bolt head. This is true for all of the crankcase bolts, as well. With these bolts, you are relying on proper bolt tension from an applied torque, so it is critical to lubricate them.
Be sure to apply grease to the threads and underside of the bolt head. This is true for all of the crankcase bolts, as well. With these bolts, you are relying on proper bolt tension from an applied torque, so it is critical to lubricate them.
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08-28-2011 12:29 PM