nick_packer

Ok, now I went to take it apart and I found out that it says SH633-12. Which according to Tweets, it's a SHINDENGEN # SH633-12 (MV4)

Which is supposed to be a good one. I looked at the plug and it didn't appear to be melted or burnt.

Is it still possible for it to fried? I'm going to have my Stator checked tomorrow to see if that could be the problem, but I've been told it's less likely.

What's the chance of the stator being bad? I've already bought a new R/R that is the upgraded one, but not the MOSFET type.

Is there anything I should check? What else could cause my bike to lose charge on a new battery?

Please help, this is so frustrating and I just want my bike back

nuhawk

In your climate and the possibility that you have been caught out in the rain, there is a connection under the seat in the wiring harness that is prone to failure. If you pop the seat off it is just behind the tank under a little rubber flap. The connectors in mine were fried. I soldered them back together and shrink wrapped them - all good.

Tweety

Well... To answer your question, I'm going to confuse you a little more first... I love doing that...

The SH-*** whatever is "good" but not great, and it's not a MOSFET...

But the main thing here isn't what type R/R you already have or will replace with...

Fixing the R/R is like fixing the bilge pump on a leaking ship... It's going to keep you from sinking temporarily, but it's not fixing the problem... I might be an oddball, I'd suggest plugging the big friggin hole in the side of the ship...

The reason people keep having problems with their batteries isn't because of the R/R... It's because of the wiring... The wiring is a bit to thin for it's purpose, and once there is corrosion, it gets worse... Then the R/R starts feeling under the weather, and starts killing off batteries... And if you ignore the warnings, it goes poof, and possibly kills more stuff...

So instead of just "fixing the R/R"... Fix the wiring instead... A multimeter set to read ohm's, a copper or plastic brush, some electric cleaner, and some spray on vaseline and lots of elbow grease...

The stator is very, very, very unlikely to be the problem... If the stator fails, you are stranded, period... No if's or butts, just plain dead bike...

With the upgraded R/R, clean and corrosion free contacts and groundpoints that has been sealed from the elements, and a full charge on the new battery, you should be good to go for another 2-3 years...

nick_packer

I had the mechanic here take a look at the connector to my rectifier, and I knew the top 3 wires were coming from the stator, so I had him check that, and he said it was charging fine. Checked the battery, showed it was charging, the rectifier was a little warm from my ride to work this morning. The plug isn't fried, so we took some electrical goop and put it on the plug to ensure good connection and tightened down my battery posts just incase it was a cause from a bad ground.

It just seems screwy. What spots should I be looking for corrosion if all my wires are mostly already plastic coated? Certain spots to check?

I appreciate all the help I'm getting!!!! Thanks!!

Tweety

It means in simple terms, since that seems to be what you are asking for, taking the ohm meter... Putting one end on the negative battery wire, and then walking the other around every connector or exposed piece of metal you can find...

It should read either 0 ohm, or - ie not connected... Only those two options are valid... Any others means you got something to fix... Then do the same on the hot side... 0 ohm, or nothing...

Look at the schematic, it shows 5 or 6 six groundpoints, they are actual groundpoints, in the approximate position of where they are on the schematic... Those and all connectors are the culprits...

nick_packer

Well come to find out, after having it get a little warm after a burnout before replacing the back tire today, the mechanic rechecked the voltage and such and said that I need to replace.... guess..... my R/R..... so luckily I have one on order, and I hope it fixes it!!! Ugh. Hopes are high!!

Thanks Tweets.

lazn

Ya, the R/R often fails such that only after it gets hot does it fully malfunction.

nick_packer

Alright. Now I am really irritated. More than irritated.

I got my part at work tuesday, put it on, and it fried itself today on the way home from work. So I think I drove my bike a total of 4 times and went possibly 30 miles. The ride today right about when it fried, I was beating on it, revving high and what not.

This is what I have:
Honda VTR1000 Esport Regulator Rectifier - Super Duty - ESR587 by Electro Sport

Stupid thing... I was cruising at about 70 and all of a sudden, the bike is off. Like, off. No power, nothing. I haven't tested anything, but when I stopped, I could smell burnt plastic and such. Luckily I had a screw driver and an allen wrench to take off my seat cowl to look at the R/R. Sure enough, the RED WIRE is what is fried. I do believe that's the positive side of the battery?

Now, I do plan on calling the company and asking them why, how, and now what, and at the same time, I would like to spread the word for some more help from you all. I'm stuck driving my 96' Lincoln Continental with terrible mpg. (Just fyi, it's for sale, $2800 with less than 100k miles)

So the real question is, what now? Do I return this one and cough up an extra $50 to buy the MOSFET kit off eBay ($125)? or just ask for a replacement? or do the R1 conversion?

Damn it all.....

Tweety

The simple truth is, and R/R does not blow up on it's own... There is always something else wrong that makes it blow up... In your case it seems it's rather severe at the pace it's killing of the replacements...

You remember what I said about the sinking ship and the bilge pump? You just fried your second bilge pump trying to keep up with the water...

You can choose whichever of the three options, it's not going to make any difference in the long run, just a matter of how long it takes for the new R/R to implode... (Yes you can destroy a MOSFET R/R, it just takes more effort...)

I have said it before, and I'll say it again... Fix the problem not the symptom... Start by going through the entire wiring harness with an ohm meter and fixing any corroded parts, then seal with vaseline... Make sure the grounding to the new R/R is good, and measure the stator as per these instructions... http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ng-diagram.pdf

Since it might seem "complicated" for someone not used to electronics, the simple "how-to" is this... Take the poles off the battery, put the ohm meter on the negative battery connector and put the other end on any metal part on the bike... Then the same with any wire you can find... And I do mean any and all wires... All of them end somewhere in a connector...

Once that's done, you will have a working electrical system... Unfortunately this is not a pick and choose menu, where you can skip the boring parts, since it comes back to bite you... Albeit it was faster this time than I had guessed...

mykrowsy

wow. i just saw this now. nd to think i missed half a summer of riding because of it!
thanks again!

Wisepenny

Wolverine

You're a couple years late...

VTR1000F

Better late than whenever.

Jack Flash

Be nice, it's his first post. He'll figure it out...maybe.

VTR1000F

That was pretty harsh from a Canadian.

Jack Flash

Yes, we are mean up here. But then again, maybe if you'd shovel snow five times a day your patience would grow a little thin.