need regulator rectifier help please
06-02-2011, 08:04 AM
#1
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Squid
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Location: Pewuakee, WI
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need regulator rectifier help please
So awhile back, I replaced my overheated regulator rectifier. the plastic clip that was on the wiring harness to plug into the regulator melted, so i pulled all the wires out and put quick disconnnects on the ends of all the wire harness ends. now i had my bike in for service not too long ago, and we had a bit of a disagreement on what they were going to charge me for labor, and long story short, i pulled my bike out of their shop and all the parts were handed to me in a ziploc bag. problem is, now i don't know where to hook these wires up to the regulator rectifier. what i was hoping is that someone on here has a picture of their superhawk regulator and knows where those wires need to be connected. I'll show you mine if you show me yours?
06-02-2011, 08:59 AM
#2
Jack of all Master of non
Superstock
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Jacksonville,fl
Posts: 297
i have done some reserch on this issue and have found a great mod to get rid of the POS honda rectifier.
Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification
if mine ever goes out this is what i am going to do with it. mine is aftermarket right now but dont know which one it is. and since you dont have a harness already this mod will be easy for you to do and never have to worry about it again.
Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification
if mine ever goes out this is what i am going to do with it. mine is aftermarket right now but dont know which one it is. and since you dont have a harness already this mod will be easy for you to do and never have to worry about it again.
06-02-2011, 09:09 AM
#4
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SuperSport
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Location: Baltimore, Maryland
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If you search for regulator replacement you should be able to find half a dozen threads that will spell out what the wires are for and where they go...if I had time right now I'd dig through my pictures
good luck
good luck
06-02-2011, 01:00 PM
#6
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Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification
THIS IS BEST THING I COULD FIND AND IT IS A DANG GOOD IDEA..
THIS IS BEST THING I COULD FIND AND IT IS A DANG GOOD IDEA..
06-02-2011, 01:53 PM
#8
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You can see the wires going into the stock r/r on the first pic in that site...
Looks like top three are yellow (from stator). Red on the left and green on the right.
Here's something to look over and a reason to maybe upgrade r/r's
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
Looks like top three are yellow (from stator). Red on the left and green on the right.
Here's something to look over and a reason to maybe upgrade r/r's
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
06-03-2011, 03:07 AM
#9
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Location: Skurup, Sweden
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Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification
THIS IS BEST THING I COULD FIND AND IT IS A DANG GOOD IDEA..
THIS IS BEST THING I COULD FIND AND IT IS A DANG GOOD IDEA..
06-03-2011, 03:09 AM
#10
Out of my mind, back in 5
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06-03-2011, 04:09 AM
#11
Jack of all Master of non
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sorry i was not yelling my caps lock was on already and didnt turn it off.
+1 (tweety) that is why i sugested the upgrade mod for the R/R i would not use another one if mine fails. and a melted plug is for sure a good sugestion that the R/R you have is not good at all!
+1 (tweety) that is why i sugested the upgrade mod for the R/R i would not use another one if mine fails. and a melted plug is for sure a good sugestion that the R/R you have is not good at all!
06-03-2011, 12:50 PM
#12
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Well, then we agree on some of it... But to clarify, doing the swap to an older model R1 R/R like in the link you posted isn't the best available upgrade... It's a lot better than stock, but not nearly as good as going all the way to an Mosfet based R/R...
06-25-2011, 04:00 PM
#13
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Squid
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thanks for the tips. i bought a new R/R a few years ago from i think "Ricks Motorsport Electrics" - which is still working. at the time of the OEM failure, the harness melted, but I was able at that time to swap the wires like for like. However, when the stealership disconnected the wiring, to diagnose the trouble which turned out to be the CDI (or some other unit that works in harmony with the CDI), they didn't leave any indication as to which yellow wire went to which pin. If i had done it, i would have labled each as 1,2,3, etc.
Last edited by mykrowsy; 06-25-2011 at 04:04 PM.
06-26-2011, 05:38 AM
#14
Out of my mind, back in 5
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thanks for the tips. i bought a new R/R a few years ago from i think "Ricks Motorsport Electrics" - which is still working. at the time of the OEM failure, the harness melted, but I was able at that time to swap the wires like for like. However, when the stealership disconnected the wiring, to diagnose the trouble which turned out to be the CDI (or some other unit that works in harmony with the CDI), they didn't leave any indication as to which yellow wire went to which pin. If i had done it, i would have labled each as 1,2,3, etc.
07-01-2011, 10:02 AM
#15
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Squid
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Coldwater, MI
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Try this one out: Will run you $95
Honda VTR1000 Esport Regulator Rectifier - Super Duty - ESR587 by Electro Sport
or for a complete MOSFET upgrade look on eBay for a UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE REGULATOR & UPGRADE KIT MOSFET by SHINDENGEN: Will run you $125
UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE REGULATOR & UPGRADE KIT MOSFET | eBay
Honda VTR1000 Esport Regulator Rectifier - Super Duty - ESR587 by Electro Sport
or for a complete MOSFET upgrade look on eBay for a UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE REGULATOR & UPGRADE KIT MOSFET by SHINDENGEN: Will run you $125
UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE REGULATOR & UPGRADE KIT MOSFET | eBay
07-01-2011, 10:13 AM
#16
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Squid
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Coldwater, MI
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I just ran into some trouble with my bike. Bought a new battery because the first one died (I think because of the R/R now), then this new one died within 2 days. Had to push start it. Got it running, figured I would get on the highway for a bit to charge the battery, had my lights and instruments all go off on me but the bike kept running. Made it back home, but that's where it sits now until I get the fix...
I'm hoping its my R/R. I really hate spending money on something and not having it be the correct fix if you know what I mean. Is there anyway to tell? I hope those are the symptoms of a bad R/R. I looked it up and read all I could read on the forum here. Learned alot from Mr. Tweety in all the reading. What are your suggestions with the 2 things I have listed above? I also have the link to buy the R6/R1 R/R and do the mod from the Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification website. I'm not sure what to follow. I of course want the cheapest route.
Someone please help me!!
I'm hoping its my R/R. I really hate spending money on something and not having it be the correct fix if you know what I mean. Is there anyway to tell? I hope those are the symptoms of a bad R/R. I looked it up and read all I could read on the forum here. Learned alot from Mr. Tweety in all the reading. What are your suggestions with the 2 things I have listed above? I also have the link to buy the R6/R1 R/R and do the mod from the Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification website. I'm not sure what to follow. I of course want the cheapest route.
Someone please help me!!
07-01-2011, 10:27 AM
#17
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Well, the cheapest route would be to get something like this:
03 Yamaha YZF R1 YZFR1 Voltage Regulator YV3 | eBay
And the wiring kit from from eastern beaver or similar:
R/R Connectors
Your symptoms sound very much like an R/R failure, and worst case scenario you will just prevent a failure in the future if you replace your R/R...
03 Yamaha YZF R1 YZFR1 Voltage Regulator YV3 | eBay
And the wiring kit from from eastern beaver or similar:
R/R Connectors
Your symptoms sound very much like an R/R failure, and worst case scenario you will just prevent a failure in the future if you replace your R/R...
07-01-2011, 11:05 AM
#18
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Squid
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07-01-2011, 11:27 AM
#19
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That was the recommended R/R to use up till the current MOSFET ones came out.
07-01-2011, 11:32 AM
#20
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07-01-2011, 11:57 AM
#21
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Squid
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I understand the MOSFETs are the best to have/upgrade to, I just want to know what's going to work and not fail on me. I really need the component because my bike is currently my only mode of transportation.
07-01-2011, 12:35 PM
#22
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Technically speaking, all of the above will work. Finned non-MOFSET are better than the old OEM one. If you're buying non-MOFSET, new is better than old. For MOFSET this isn't as big of a deal.
For some people, cutting a single wire is too much work, and for others, changing the whole system is no big deal. Others need one ASAP for a trackday or something so plug-n-play is more important than long term reliability.
Some R/R's have a better chance of failing (nothing has a 0% chance of failing), and some people go 50K miles with the non-finned OEM one. What I'm getting at is that it is difficult to answer the question without knowing your situation.
For some people, cutting a single wire is too much work, and for others, changing the whole system is no big deal. Others need one ASAP for a trackday or something so plug-n-play is more important than long term reliability.
Some R/R's have a better chance of failing (nothing has a 0% chance of failing), and some people go 50K miles with the non-finned OEM one. What I'm getting at is that it is difficult to answer the question without knowing your situation.
07-01-2011, 12:41 PM
#23
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Squid
Join Date: Oct 2010
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I work at a Powersports dealer here in Coldwater, and I can get replacements at cost for myself, and the closest I got was something out of a Tucker Rocky Catalog that is this exact same thing: (which I get for like $65 and it plugs in. No mod)
Honda VTR1000 Esport Regulator Rectifier - Super Duty - ESR587 by Electro Sport
Should I buy that one?
Honda VTR1000 Esport Regulator Rectifier - Super Duty - ESR587 by Electro Sport
Should I buy that one?
07-01-2011, 12:44 PM
#24
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Yep, 7moore7 nailed it.
Any of them will work, and any of them can fail.
Order of best to worst:
1) New MOSFET R/R
2) Used MOSFET R/R
3) New finned non Honda non MOSFET R/R
4) Used finned non Honda non MOSFET R/R
5) Big Pile of Cow Poo
6) Finned Honda non MOSFET R/R
7) Big Pile of Human Poo in a Nuclear Reactor filled with zombie maggots
8) non finned OEM Honda non MOSFET R/R
edit: I'd rate the one you linked as a 3 or 4
Any of them will work, and any of them can fail.
Order of best to worst:
1) New MOSFET R/R
2) Used MOSFET R/R
3) New finned non Honda non MOSFET R/R
4) Used finned non Honda non MOSFET R/R
5) Big Pile of Cow Poo
6) Finned Honda non MOSFET R/R
7) Big Pile of Human Poo in a Nuclear Reactor filled with zombie maggots
8) non finned OEM Honda non MOSFET R/R
edit: I'd rate the one you linked as a 3 or 4
07-01-2011, 12:45 PM
#25
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Squid
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I mean it is a slight upgrade and I get a 1 year warranty. Will this suit me? and how long might it last?
I take pretty good care of my bike. I've got stuck in the rain maybe 5 times total, and I have it garage kept in the winter. It's a clean bike and I get many compliments on it. I'm hoping no corrosion takes place on it even though it is inevitable for the most part.
I'm at the point where I want someone to tell me point blank, what to do right now because I just want it fixed and working. I love my bike.
I take pretty good care of my bike. I've got stuck in the rain maybe 5 times total, and I have it garage kept in the winter. It's a clean bike and I get many compliments on it. I'm hoping no corrosion takes place on it even though it is inevitable for the most part.
I'm at the point where I want someone to tell me point blank, what to do right now because I just want it fixed and working. I love my bike.
07-01-2011, 12:50 PM
#26
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I had a Chinese non MOSFET aftermarket R/R last 3 years for me after my zombie maggot failed. (edit: after it died I went to a MOSFET one)
We can't guarantee that yours will last "X" number of years or miles.. but it sure is better than the one that died on you and that one lasted for however long the bike has been around.
We can't guarantee that yours will last "X" number of years or miles.. but it sure is better than the one that died on you and that one lasted for however long the bike has been around.
