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Need new thermostat - any suggestions?

Old 01-09-2013, 08:56 AM
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Need new thermostat - any suggestions?

Hi all, Since its winter and I have some down time I'm trying to get some routine main. done before spring. I replaced the radiator cap with a Stat part number (works great) and was wondering if anyone has a part number for a new "non Honda" brand thermostat? My local Honda Stealerships want $42 for a $6 part - can anyone help me find a cheaper one? I appreciate your help in advance.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:06 AM
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The only place you can get one is Honda as far as I know.
It is not like a "common" unit as it has an upper and lower disk or what looks like two (2) thermostats hooked together. Name:  therm.JPG
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Are you replacing due to a problem or "just because"? I still have the factory unit in my bike (from '97) and it still works just fine.

Last edited by 8541Hawk; 01-09-2013 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:19 AM
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:52 AM
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Mine is a 98 with 15K on the clock but it puked coolant out the lower rubber tubes just in front of the rear wheel the day I was prepping it for winter storage (its never happened before). Had it puked 30 seconds earlier, directly in front of the rear wheel, I would have gone down at highway speeds in a turn. Not cool at all.

I posted an earlier thread and with the help of the forum members I was able to get a new rad cap from Stat. After installing and running the bike again (and after topping off the rads with fluid) the bike got hot and the fans kicked on - in 50 degree temperature. So I'm not convinced it was the cap and I'd like to get a new thermostat to eliminate any doubt or the possiblity of it happening again this spring. I usually do a track day in early spring and want to put this heating/ puking of coolant issue to rest before then.

Last edited by Tebs; 01-09-2013 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:21 AM
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Test the thermostat; follow instructions in Factory Service Manual. It's not very hard to do and will likely save you from buying a new one. You just need to be able to read a thermometer and boil water. That will likely put the issue to rest even more b/c if it's fine you can then move on down the troubleshooting list.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:01 PM
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I havent run a thermostat in years. No issue at all in any weather. Even ran back to back runs with and without and didnt see a differenct. No way can this bike "overcool" itself. Even warmed up in the same amount of time down to 18*F.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:12 PM
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Thanks for that nugget of info smokingjoe - I never considered not running a thermostat. Hmmm now you got me thinking.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:19 PM
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If you run without a thermostat you will more than likely need to by-pass the carb heat lines as the bottom disk on the stock unit stops the coolant flow when the thermostat opens.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:00 AM
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Test the thermostat; follow instructions in Factory Service Manual. It's not very hard to do and will likely save you from buying a new one. You just need to be able to read a thermometer and boil water. That will likely put the issue to rest even more b/c if it's fine you can then move on down the troubleshooting list.
+1


I don't think permanently removing the thermostat is a good idea as this can cause other issues. Have you drained and flushed the system through. You may have a blockage somewhere. Also make sure there are no air locks in the system.

(:-})
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
If you run without a thermostat you will more than likely need to by-pass the carb heat lines as the bottom disk on the stock unit stops the coolant flow when the thermostat opens.


hmm, so thats why last couple of times i removed the carbs there was no coolant in these lines....one more reason to think that my thermostat is stuck open
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by chemomche View Post
hmm, so thats why last couple of times i removed the carbs there was no coolant in these lines....one more reason to think that my thermostat is stuck open
That is completely normal when the system is working properly.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:00 AM
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I'm just going to suck it up and buy a thermostat from the dealer. I called the place above and they want $8 to ship plus $32 for the part. I might as well go to the dealer and not wait on shipping. Grabbing ankles now.....

Thanks for your input everyone!
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:38 PM
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Hi guys,

I just bought a 98 firestorm (superhawk) and have noticed that when riding on a highway (>60mph) in coolish weather the temp gauge on the dash will drop down very cool again. Even to just about the first point on the Gauge above cold if it is cool enough air im riding in.

Based on prior experience with failing thermostats I am inclined to think that the bike's thermostat has seized open. It also seems to take a long time for the bike to heat up when started too. bike doesn't seems to overheat and thermofan will kick in when the temp gauge goes past the centre line and it will cool it down.

Can anybody advise whether;
A) this is normal VTR1000 behaviour
B) the thermostat is knackered and needs replacement?

cheers
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:53 PM
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Are you sure about you coolant level? These bikes are not know for their cooling abilities. You may have air in the system that is preventing accurate reading or just not enuff coolant to register.

I have no thermostat at all and it still doesnt run cool even in winter.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:20 AM
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I couldn't say about an air lock in the system, whats the best way to diagnose this on a VTR? Nonetheless, based on the behaviour of the temps under the different conditions it does point straight to thermostat and not at all to air-lock.

Im in London so generally cool conditions and the highway air is a pretty rapid cooler at 90mph+

otherwise, iv been into automotive and modifying/tuning of cars n bikes for a long time n iv never found it good to be a good idea to run without a thermostat. The manufacturers put one in for a reason. A good one when you know how the heating and cooling of a motor works. The only time it might be an applicable removal is for a track only bike.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:58 AM
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Actually, close, but sorta the opposite. A bike on a track is getting a steady diet of 100mph wind. Just what the doctor Honda ordered.

I have themos in my 3 racebikes cuz who cares. But on my City bike which rarely sees high speed, I want constant maximum cooling, so no thermo.

Any Hondas with cooling issues (goldwing, vfr,vtr) have the problem in what Honda call "parade conditions". Turns out I am in a constant parade. The vtr is the only one of the 3 that has an outblowing fan, so swapping to a vtr fanblade is a common mod for those bikes.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:59 AM
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Sorry to revive an older thread. I just rode my bike to work this morning about 20 -30 miles probably 50 degrees out. Bike got really hot it's a 98 just had rear head replaced. 2nd time i have ridden it since i got it back. First time didn't notice it getting this hot. What should i do first to check this out. It seemed to go down a little bit but not much. Fans never kicked on either. Looking for help before I break something else on it!
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:09 AM
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How hot is hot? Where on the guage does it get to? First check oil and coolant levels. Then check fan switch on right radiator. Were you moving or in traffic? Also check all fuses.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:30 AM
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it was up almost to the orange! in traffic then moving it went down a little when i moved but it stayed up!!! thankfully i was close to work!
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:31 AM
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Yeah, if your fan didn't turn on I'd definitely check coolant level and that coolant is flowing. May have air in the system from the head being replaced.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:00 AM
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this may be a dumb question but how will i know if coolant is flowing? I see how to bleed it out. I am going to check the oil and overflow levels of coolant at lunch. possibly run and pick up some more oil. I have distilled water at home to put in if needed.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:11 AM
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Best way is to take the coolant cap off of the radiator while the bike is cold, then start it up. As it heats up to operating temp, you should see the coolant in the top of the radiator start moving (meaning the thermostat has opened and allowing water to flow through the radiators). If you have air in the system, water can't flow properly and it will stay relatively stagnant where the cap is.

If this is the case, blip the throttle a few times, and go around and tap on all of the hoses with something similar to the handle of a screwdrive and squeeze them to try to work the air through.

That brings me to another idea: you can test or replace your radiator cap. It may just be not holding enough pressure anymore...
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
The vtr is the only one of the 3 that has an outblowing fan, so swapping to a vtr fanblade is a common mod for those bikes.
Which is comical, since I have a VFR and I'm looking at changing it to the VTR fan blades. On the VFR, as soon as traffic moves a little, my (tiny) fan is pulling air INTO the engine area thru the radiator, but 5mph air flow is fighting it, going the other direction.
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:40 PM
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Overflow is dry!!!! Going to add distillers water there will it fill into the rest of system?
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:44 PM
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Pull the radiator cap off and make sure it IS flowing to the rest of the system. By filling from the overflow bottle, you get water in the crossover tube as well.

Then run the bike a few minutes until it warms up and the thermostat opens. It will ingest more water from the overflow bottle, and you'll want to refill it to the proper level.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:30 PM
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Yeah vegas, you should switch to the vtr fan blade asap. Much better for the bike. No kidding.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:49 AM
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Ok got her filled up last night ran her today and she was perfect never got much above half way!!!! Feeling confident again on her!!!!
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