Cursio

Thank you very much, buying a used engine on ebay might be the best way

When you say the head, do you mean the top of the engine over each cylinder (the part over the top gasket)? Will a head change on each cylinder be necessary you think? I will certanly look into this!

My bike has done about 50000 miles. It is a 2000-mod, but I have only owned it for the last two years, and I am not sure when the last CCT-change was done. This breakdown is absolutely part my fault, even though the workshop never had seen this problem before!

Yeah, 5 grand. I never said Norway is a cheap country to live in. I am also thinking about selling the bike as a part bike to get rid of the problem, but at the same time I think that it is in too good of a condition to do that!

Pantaloonie

As long as the piston wasn't damaged by hitting the valves, a replacement cylinder head complete with valves is all you'll need.
Keep an eye on ebay, they pop up occasionally, although front heads are rare as it's usually the front that lets go.

Cursio

Are you serious? If that's the case, I'll might survive this after all!

It is probably just one of the CCT's that failed, and then it's proably just damages on one of the heads, right? (because of the independent cam chains?)
From what i could tell, the mechanic did just open the top cover on one of the heads and had a look around, so what should I ask him to do?
Is this a good approach?

- Fully open both heads and check for damage on pistons in addition to damage on valves.
- If there's no damage to the pistons, change the head / two heads if needed, and get it running!
- If there's damage to the pistons, and / or small pieces of metal everywhere, buy a new engine?

FL02SupaHawk996

Sorry to hear about your cct failure If it were me I'd find a good used low mileage motor and just swap it out.

Here's an example of one in Germany: Find Honda VTR1000F Firestorm SC36 Motor on eBay Global Buying, with worldwide deals on items in all your top categories

Cursio

That engine looks like a really good choice, I actually looked at it earlier today.
Would you not take the chance of just changing the head (I assume changing the head on my old engine is cheaper), because of the possibility of more damage deeper down?

FL02SupaHawk996

Yes, there will be a HIGH probability that you'll have metal from the chain slapping the inside of the head that circulated in the oil. The best way to check is pull the oil pan and inspect the crevices in the bottom of it and check pump's filter foot for metal hiding in it.

If no metal pieces can be found then just replacing the head will work fine, otherwise you may risk another engine failure after replacing the head due to the metal contaminated oil reaching bearings and/or tranny...

Little_Horse

I have two good heads one front and one rear complete with good valves if you decide to go that route although shipping would overseas would be pretty steep.

FL02SupaHawk996

If he only needed 1 head at about 20 lbs that wouldn't be too bad to ship. I'd guess $75-100 with insurance, maybe less?

Old Yeller

parting these bikes can bring some significant $ if the rest of your bike is in good shape. I'd suggest looking into doing that to offset the cost of another bike. It would be cheaper to buy a good running Firestorm instead of paying that much for just the engine.

Cursio

I have given this some thought, and I think it's the safest option to change the engine, though it's not necessarily the cheapest one.

But consider that the new engine is two years newer, and has 36000 less miles on it!

The Norwegian VTR-community is quite small, so I am not sure if this is a good option... I do not have a garage to tear down the bike and to store the parts either. :/

Cursio

Well, the "new" engine is on it's way (it has about 14000 miles on it). I found out this is the least risky option, because there is not easy to say how big the damages is on my engine. I will put my engine out for sale cheap, it probably is just the front head that needs changing.

I will give a update when I get the new engine, let's see how it goes

insider

so i don't start out a new topic...

all this talk got me paranoid about my VTR.

has almost 49.000 km onboard.

I m thinking of changing CCTs to brand new OEM CCTs...

I can't putn APE ccts because I'm not that technical (don't have the tools, the skills, the time ,the place and the will). And also can't find/trust somebody to do it.

My question is: to change the CCTs does something need to be taken off (same procedure as replacing them with APE's ?)

Also,should I think of changing the cam chains as well (& cam sprockets & etc?)

Or I can just change the CCTs ?

FL02SupaHawk996

Just the CCTs and here's the best DIY writeup that I know of that's easy to follow: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...pe-ccts-11275/

Tweety

Swapping CCT's are the same job, regardless of if you use OEM, or APE's... Same level of skill needed, same basic tools, and the same things needs to come off... And yes, the same opportunity to blow up your working engine exist, doesn't matter what replacement parts you choose...

The only difference is that you use a tool to lock the spring in the stock CCT before installing them... If a shop does the work they have the tool, if you do it, you need to make it...

And as far as "not having the know-how", don't assume a shop has the know-how, other people have tried that with less than stellar results... The VTR's have a "quirk" in that oyu can grenade an engine on CCT replacement where other bikes are "safe" to work on... If the mechanic makes that assumption, it goes "crunch"...

Camchain and sprockets should be replaced when they reach their wear limit, the service manual tells you how to check that, and what limits... It's not cheap, and if you are uncomfortable doing CCT's, the risks go up exponentially with added complexity...

BTW, where are you located? Km means Europe?... Could be an idea to put it in your info...

klx678

My two cents:

First off the HyVo cam chains should last virtually the life of the bike given the adjustment is proper, whether an OEM unit or a manual unit. The fact is I've only done 4 adjustments over a 30,000 mile range on new cam chains on my KLX650, with the last one being so many miles ago I don't remember when it was. Clearly the chains (it has two) seated in and have pretty much stayed put after the last adjustment. The total adjustment was less than one full turn of an M8-1.25 bolt or about .050". Not too much. The Zephyr has gone 8K without any changes, it had the original chain and I've had a few riders tell me of similar experience with minimal adjustment. That's what led me to the conclusion about the incrementation of the ratchet mechanisms and the stacking of tolerances putting some of the tensioners in position to fail quickly while others don't. But that's another story.

As for the difficulty, on the Kaws it's a breeze to do them. I installed one in an Eliminator in the infield at Mid Ohio last year, but they're wide open and easy to get to. One rider commented "If you know which end of a screwdriver to hold onto, you can do this." But on the Superhawk you need to be more careful with how they are installed, keeping the cylinders at TDC compression on the one in which you are intalling the tensioner. That is the hard part. Adjusting the tensioner is not that difficult, especially if you use a mechanic's stethoscope or screwdriver to the ear to listen for the ticking sound of the chain slack slapping the slider, which taps on the adjuster bolt. I will say I do it by ear only on the KLX, it's quite easily heard.

At this point from what I've read here I'd NEVER put a set of stock tensioners back in the bike. On the Kaws it's a progressive failure that is non-catastrophic for some time. Clearly on the VTRs it can be instantaneous.

By the way, if you can strip the bike down to where you can get to the tensioners all it takes to put in the set I make is the 10mm (or whatever wrench it takes) to pull the stock tensioners, a 5mm allen wrench to put in mine with the countersunk fasteners, and two 13mm wrenches - one to hold the adjuster bolt and one to tighten the lock nut - to install them. No tricks. In my book it's harder to strip the bike down than put in the parts. Stock tensioners sound a lot more difficult since clearly they also need to have the cylinders at TDC, but have some trick to setting them for assembly. Then after some time they break...

fred