CCT - Converting OEM unit into manual one
#1
CCT - Converting OEM unit into manual one
Hi all,
As I've almost finished my fighter
, I stumbled across the old set of OEM CCTs that I removed when I installed the APE manual units on my previous bike.
Install thread: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=11275
Looking at it and needing a new set for my fighter, I decided to convert these into manual one similar to the APE unit using existing hardware.
What I used for the conversion for two CCTs:
1) 2 - OEM CCTs
2) 2 – M6x40 bolt (stainless)
3) 2 – M6 nuts (stainless)
4) 1 – locktite fluid
I started by dissecting the existing CCT by removing the locking ring.
Once the ring is removed, all the components will easily slide out.
The OEM CCT regulates it strength through the spring and it is this spring that once broken will allow the plunger to slide down the screw piston thus the chain guide will no longer have pressure. It’s an elegant design but one that needs maintenance and it is not fool proof. I’ve seen some conversion using a bolt with the head ground flat to lock the screw piston in place thus prevent the plunger from backing out. This method of locking the screw piston would work but it will not allow adjusting easily since all it does is prevent movement of the screw piston. It is no longer automatic but it will prevent the CCT from backing out. I decided that I would spend a little more effort and make it fully adjustable.
To convert the existing design to a manual and fully adjustable CCT, I use a M6 x40 mm bolt and a M6 nut. The M6 bolt is designed to fit through the existing screw cap and the M6 nut and existing washer is designed to be the locking nut and also act as an oil cap at the same time.
Before I insert the M6 bolt through the CCT housing, I re-tap the CCT housing so that the M6 bolt will easily go all the way through. The CCT housing has an insert that will prevent the M6 bolt to fully go through. This insert is what the original screw plunger sits on.
Before assembly, I use a 5/16 drill and drill the top of the piston screw creating an indentation so that the M6 bolt would sit inside it. This is not really necessary but it would greatly improve the stability of the CCT before it is mounted into the engine.
Using the locktite, I apply liberally to the piston screw and reinsert it into the plunger. This will lock the plunger and the screw piston in place. Even without the locktite, once it is mounted there is nowhere for the plunger to go. This just add a little of stability before inserting into the engine.
Now for assembly
Insert the M6 nut, washer and bolt through the CCT housing. Reinsert the plunger into the housing and replace the locking ring. It’s done.
Enjoy
As I've almost finished my fighter
, I stumbled across the old set of OEM CCTs that I removed when I installed the APE manual units on my previous bike.
Install thread: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=11275
Looking at it and needing a new set for my fighter, I decided to convert these into manual one similar to the APE unit using existing hardware.
What I used for the conversion for two CCTs:
1) 2 - OEM CCTs
2) 2 – M6x40 bolt (stainless)
3) 2 – M6 nuts (stainless)
4) 1 – locktite fluid
I started by dissecting the existing CCT by removing the locking ring.
Once the ring is removed, all the components will easily slide out.
The OEM CCT regulates it strength through the spring and it is this spring that once broken will allow the plunger to slide down the screw piston thus the chain guide will no longer have pressure. It’s an elegant design but one that needs maintenance and it is not fool proof. I’ve seen some conversion using a bolt with the head ground flat to lock the screw piston in place thus prevent the plunger from backing out. This method of locking the screw piston would work but it will not allow adjusting easily since all it does is prevent movement of the screw piston. It is no longer automatic but it will prevent the CCT from backing out. I decided that I would spend a little more effort and make it fully adjustable.
To convert the existing design to a manual and fully adjustable CCT, I use a M6 x40 mm bolt and a M6 nut. The M6 bolt is designed to fit through the existing screw cap and the M6 nut and existing washer is designed to be the locking nut and also act as an oil cap at the same time.
Before I insert the M6 bolt through the CCT housing, I re-tap the CCT housing so that the M6 bolt will easily go all the way through. The CCT housing has an insert that will prevent the M6 bolt to fully go through. This insert is what the original screw plunger sits on.
Before assembly, I use a 5/16 drill and drill the top of the piston screw creating an indentation so that the M6 bolt would sit inside it. This is not really necessary but it would greatly improve the stability of the CCT before it is mounted into the engine.
Using the locktite, I apply liberally to the piston screw and reinsert it into the plunger. This will lock the plunger and the screw piston in place. Even without the locktite, once it is mounted there is nowhere for the plunger to go. This just add a little of stability before inserting into the engine.
Now for assembly
Insert the M6 nut, washer and bolt through the CCT housing. Reinsert the plunger into the housing and replace the locking ring. It’s done.
Enjoy
Last edited by calitoz; 05-29-2010 at 08:59 PM.
#5
This is the other method that is easier but not as pretty:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...09&postcount=5
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...09&postcount=5
#7
Actually the screwdriver tipped bolt shown at the top of that post might be the easiest as that doesn't even require removing the CCTs from the engine..
#8
Couldn't have described it better myself... Tear out silly spring, drill a clean hole and tap new threads... Insert bolt and add some sealant or thread sealing washers... Install...
#9
This is the other method that is easier but not as pretty:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...09&postcount=5
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...09&postcount=5
#10
Other than that, that is the equivalent of a pair of APE's... Calito'z method looks more stock, but is also a bit more complex... Does the sam thing though...
#11
thanks for the further explanation guys, I'll be giving this a shot instead of buying the apes. do either of you know what size and thread pitch the carriage bolt in that post is? if this doesn't work....
just kidding, I'LL MAKE IT WORK. lol
just kidding, I'LL MAKE IT WORK. lol
#14
thanks calitoz for the great pics and description of this mod. and thanks tweety for the rationale for doing it. Posts 110 and 112 of the below thread may help others who may want to do this mod:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...926#post289926
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...926#post289926
#15
Do a search on cct redo. Simple fix, works, no problems so far, fix is 3 years old.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...light=cct+redo
Mark Smith
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...light=cct+redo
Mark Smith
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