nnjhawk02

So after recently going to Gixxer calipers

see here> https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=17513

I tried starting bike after brake change, but would not kick over. I heard the clicking noise & just thought not enough cold cranking - anywoo put it back on Tender and went to start it yesterday, but again no dice - had to go to work - so put back on Tender.

Today - just clicking again. So I used jumper cables from car (no I didn't start the car) after a little (think it was flooded) it started. Then I saw it...

Tach, temp, fuel gauges are flashing on/off. Is it the rectifier / regulator?

Anywoo I took it on a quick ride thru neighborhood to seat new brake pads, all the while gauges are flashing.

Returned to casa - let it idle for 5 mins. pulled into garage turned it off. I tried to re-start - nada.

Battery was new last May, thus I'm ruling that out.

Anybody?

Thanks

Rhino

RickB

'02 should have the better finned R/R like mine does that are far more reliable. Anyhow if you have a voltmeter check the voltage at the battery and see what it says, there should be info in the KB stating what it should read at idle and 5k rpm. I do recall hearing that if the coolant temp is above a set number the display will flash, maybe you knocked off the temp sender wire? I have never taken it off mine but it will read either one of 2 extremes real hot or ice cold depending on how the resistance to temp range is engineered. Hope its an easy fix for you.

inderocker

Sounds like a bad R/R. Charge your battery, check voltage at the terminals before you start it, fire it up, check voltage again. I would say 12.8-13.8 is acceptable the manual may say different.

nnjhawk02

Yeah but bike will not start, now. I will get a voltage meter & I guess jump again from car to check

nuhawk

Just get a cheap battery that will fill the pocket if you're short on change. Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone are all over this. When multiple things happen don't overlook the obvious. Keep your receipt. If the battery toasts in a week then you got bigger problems. Cross the bridge when you get to it. In the meantime your old battery is the weakest link.

nnjhawk02

Actually Batt is under warranty - But I'm good about keeping on the Tender, thus w/ other items acting up - I'm thinking its not the Battery. New in 5/08

Stock Battery lasted 6 yrs

nuhawk

Easy out is to change the batt - it's under warranty. At least take the new battery back to where you bought and have it load tested. If it's cool then the R/R is suspect.

inderocker

Did you end up replacing it because it wouldn't take or hold a charge? If so then that is the reason your R/R may be fried as it would have to dissipate the excess voltage that your old battery wouldn't take.

VTRsurfer

+1 on load test battery. They can go south at any age.

nnjhawk02

Yeah I plan on testing battery anyway.


Not sure I follow U, but do U mean that the Battery Tender gave excess voltage to the R/R? Not sure it can do that, as BTs R built not to overload, no?

Or R U saying when a battery is toast the excess charge goes to the R/R?

inderocker

Correct. The R/R is always dissipating excess charge from the stator, but when a battery won't take a charge anymore, the the R/R has to dissipate that much more.

crackrbaby

There is a big bunch of wires directly behind the back of the tank, under the seat ( I think a plug off the tank plugs into the harness there also ) .. Somehow when I was sync'n the carbs I bumped something and it did the same thing.. just Click Click... As soon as i grabbed the harness.. vroomm..
Just figured its worth a shot... If you need a pic of where I am talkin about I can post one when I get home..

nnjhawk02

Sure all the help the better

FWIW - I have not had time yet to recheck anything as work & kiddies keep me pretty busy + this winter won't end

NWbrew

Mine did the same thing, it was the R/R. It started blinking the entire display and did so for about a week. Then one time it just didn't start. I replaced the R/R, never touched the battery, and haven't had a problem since.

nnjhawk02

Well I finally put a multimeter on the Battery - while off it stated 12.24v

all fuses r good including the 30a starter relay fuse.

Is there a better r/r to replace it with? - again its an '02 VTR

nnjhawk02

OK - its been awhile (too much work)

But finally jumped bike again

And took the following readings

with bike on - multimeter read 8.5v

bike off 9.15

Now its has not been ridden and off the Battery Tender for last 3 weeks.

Thus, I'm thinking its the battery

Stevebis1

Bike on 8.5v?? - and lower than bike off at 9.15v? I'm thinking R/R. Something is draining your battery AND causing it not to charge. Bike on should be 14v+. Maybe bad battery and bad stator?.
Me thinks the R/R - and if it hasn't killed the battery, it certainly weakened it.

lazn

Bike on, do you mean the switch on, or running? As you need to test it with the bike running..

wait you said jumped it.. I would say both the R/R and the battery are dead.. one killed the other, as to which killed which who knows or cares.

Tweety

I can tell you with 99.99% certainty that your R/R is bad...

You can replace the battery and the bike will work well... For a while... My advice is the replace the R/R before it kills a second battery...

Why do I know this?

First of all, your battery was drained in the matter of weeks... A faulty battery, not keeping charge at all would be stone cold dead by that time, not at half voltage...

If your battery was damaged and couldn't be charged at all, the tender wouldn't have helped, you'd need a bumpstart every time you started the bike away from your garage long before this time...

This means that you battery was fine, or at least working reasonably... It's most certainly dead or dieing now...

The reason being that something drained your battery, since the battery itself held a charge... That very something is a faulty R/R...

A R/R is made up of diodes... When operating as it should it conducts electricity in one direction and block in the other... In theory... In practice there is slight resistance in the leading direction and a slight leakage in the blocking direction... But this is on a microscopic scale...

When the R/R goes bad the diodes start conducting in both directions, this means they let through an incorrect voltage when charging (higher or lower, depending on which of the diodes die first, or if some diode fuses and stops conducting at all). And it also means that they drain the battery when the bike is switched off... Normally they would not conduct from the battery to the stator, now they do and it drains the battery...

Also, since they let through an incorrect high voltage on charging, the result is either that the battery isn't charged when the bike is running, or that it's overcharged...

If the battery is overcharged for a while it begins to loose it's capacity and it could potentially explode... Undercharging it significantly reduces it's capacity to hold a charge...

nnjhawk02

Thanks to all for advice that's why SH is the spot for the VTR info - ride on my bros

Took battery back to Battery+ store - they tested its toast> thus I'm getting a new one (under warranty) & ordering a R/R - right now

nnjhawk02

OK - Finally replaced battery (free) & recd the R/R - just installed

Bike fired right up

took battery readings Off 12.92 - On 14.28 > Have on battery tender now.. come on Spring

Happy St. Paddys to All

LBD

Sorry to continue the thread when you had a happy ending, but can you tell me where you got your R/R from and if it was for the VTR or another Honda? One item I read in this forum directed me to ebay and a $49 R/R with fins. I want to replace my 2000's R/R with the right one at a reaonable price. Thanks!

Fozzy Bear

When you say battery tender, do you mean a trickle charger? . I deal with a lot of lead acid batteries at work (fire pumps, backup generators etc) and have found that instead of having the charger on 24/7, I put it on a timer so that it only charged 2 hours a day. In some cases it extended the life of the battery by 3 to 4 times. Lead acids like to be cycled a bit. Some of our more advanced chargers have a discharge cycle built in, so it gives the battery some work to do.

nnjhawk02

Got it here

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/


Name brand is Battery Tender - which are trickle chargers - they are built so they never overcharge - have used it for awhile now - stock battery lasted 6 yrs