Help battery not charging
#1
Help battery not charging
I have a 99 superhawk with a year old battery that was left on a battery tender while in storage it has been fine for a month but the battery has died twice in the last week. After charging the battery and starting the bike the voltage does not increase. Could someone please tell me where to go from here as far as testing the charging system. I can't afford a manual at this time so I hope to get as much info as possible.
#3
You can download the manual here: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=11365
It is most likely the R/R in which case you have a few reasonable options. (the VTR is not that common, but it uses the same R/R as the CBR F3 so if you find one that is compatible with that it will work on our bike)
The cheap option is this aftermarket one off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-H...WDVWQQtcZphoto
The best option is one from: http://www.motovoltage.com/ (this Circuit_burner's product, one of the guys on the forum)
Or you could replace it with another Honda Unit from the dealer. The ones made after 2001 are "finned" like that ebay aftermarket one. You do not want one of the nonfinned ones.
Your last option is to swap to a Yamaha or Suzuki part. The Yamaha is a popular swap: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380
It is most likely the R/R in which case you have a few reasonable options. (the VTR is not that common, but it uses the same R/R as the CBR F3 so if you find one that is compatible with that it will work on our bike)
The cheap option is this aftermarket one off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-H...WDVWQQtcZphoto
The best option is one from: http://www.motovoltage.com/ (this Circuit_burner's product, one of the guys on the forum)
Or you could replace it with another Honda Unit from the dealer. The ones made after 2001 are "finned" like that ebay aftermarket one. You do not want one of the nonfinned ones.
Your last option is to swap to a Yamaha or Suzuki part. The Yamaha is a popular swap: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380
#5
Its either the R/R or the Stator.
Check your stator before you spend any money. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=18792
150 bucks you would spend on the R/R could be put towards a new stator in the event your R/R is OK still.
20% of charge failures are stator related.
10% of these kill the R/R
The other 80% of charge failures are directly related the the R/R fritzing out by itself.
Hope this helps.
Check your stator before you spend any money. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=18792
150 bucks you would spend on the R/R could be put towards a new stator in the event your R/R is OK still.
20% of charge failures are stator related.
10% of these kill the R/R
The other 80% of charge failures are directly related the the R/R fritzing out by itself.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-08-2009 at 11:09 PM.
#6
Of course, it could be the battery itself. In storage? I had a battery crash on the Superhawk that would be fine when cold, get hot quick and then go braindead. Next morning the bike would fire right back up. If you can get to a parts store most of them can stress test your battery.
#9
I have that same problem that my battery would start up only once and it would drain the battery did if I don't start it right away when i turned the key.. turn out the battery fluid was low. I decided to add distilled water in my battery and it now charging again. I figured that out after i bought a new battery it mention about electrolyte because you have to add it into the battery and charge it for 8 hr before you can use it. I think that distilled water and baking soda would work. I haven't mixed baking soda yet but i will try later on when the distilled water is gone. I use that battery for my honda rebel right now it haven't die yet
#11
No Additives
The charging process causes a chemical reaction between the oxidized lead in the cell and the pure water which changes the water into electrolyte, thus storing the electricity for use when needed for operating the starter. The normal discharge process during use of the battery reverses the chemical process and converts the electrolyte back into pure water while oxidizing the lead. If you add anything other than distilled water, you will be damaging the battery in ways that cannot be repaired.
#12
#13
If you guys are using the right battery, you wont be able to add squat.
Lead acid batteries will work, but the charging rate is different and a stock R/R will BBQ a lead acid battery in short order.
Use a Gel-cell ( YTX-14-BS ) or similar. They dont have accessible vents, so you cant add fluids.
And I dont recommend prying the cell covers off either, as it will do no good for the battery.
Lead acid batteries will work, but the charging rate is different and a stock R/R will BBQ a lead acid battery in short order.
Use a Gel-cell ( YTX-14-BS ) or similar. They dont have accessible vents, so you cant add fluids.
And I dont recommend prying the cell covers off either, as it will do no good for the battery.
#14
I did use the term "oxidized lead" when I should have said "lead sulfate".
That is true, lead reacts with the sulfuric acid during discharge (while the battery is under load...starter motor, lights, horn) and the product of the reaction is: lead sulfate + electricity + water. To charge the battery, the process is reversed, and the lead sulfate reacts with the added electricity and the water to form sulfuric acid again.
All of the electricity in a charged battery is stored in the electrolyte solution. As electricity is being drawn from the battery, the solution becomes weaker as the acid is converted into water.
Here is a good explanation of the process.
"Full discharge would result in both electrodes being covered with lead sulfate and water rather than sulfuric acid surrounding the electrodes."
That is true, lead reacts with the sulfuric acid during discharge (while the battery is under load...starter motor, lights, horn) and the product of the reaction is: lead sulfate + electricity + water. To charge the battery, the process is reversed, and the lead sulfate reacts with the added electricity and the water to form sulfuric acid again.
All of the electricity in a charged battery is stored in the electrolyte solution. As electricity is being drawn from the battery, the solution becomes weaker as the acid is converted into water.
Here is a good explanation of the process.
"Full discharge would result in both electrodes being covered with lead sulfate and water rather than sulfuric acid surrounding the electrodes."
#15
OK guys my problems keep getting worse,and im going to tell you how it all started. First the high beam blew out on me and then the low beam, after that it wasnt hold charge se we bought a new regulator. we installed it and everything seemed fine but the lights were still out. on a ride oneday my bike shuts off on the highway and its completely dead where nothing works. The battery was also overheated and blew up slightly. You could really smell the sulfur. So we got a new one and now every bulb up front is out. (All blown but fuses are still good.) Right now the battery is keeping a charge of 14.4. Can sombody please help cause Im missing out on so much riding time! Thank You all
May I remind you the aftermarket R/R I have is no name brand off ebay
May I remind you the aftermarket R/R I have is no name brand off ebay
Last edited by sittinxsidewayz; 07-13-2009 at 05:07 PM.
#17
#18
That is the problem with the cheap option.. I have one of them and it has treated me well for 3 years now.. but I got lucky.. When mine goes I will be getting a motovoltage one from Circuit Burner so as to be done with it once and for all. (lifetime warranty FTW)
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