Gets hot in traffic
04-17-2010, 08:12 PM
#1
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 47
Gets hot in traffic
I have had a 98 Superhawk for a little over two years, and from the first time I got stuck in traffic the temp gage just keeps creeping up. I have flushed and replaced coolant and added watter wetter, but on the way home from work Friday I had to stop and let it cool down again. Fan runs and blows hot air off rad. Moving its fine, just stopped in traffic can't keep temp down. Any ideas? Thanks.
04-17-2010, 08:14 PM
#2
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 210
Mount a second fan on the other rad.
You can even wire it to come on with the stock one or wire it with a switch, so you control when it comes on.
Or wire a switch to the stock one and turn it on before it gets too hot.
You can even wire it to come on with the stock one or wire it with a switch, so you control when it comes on.
Or wire a switch to the stock one and turn it on before it gets too hot.
04-17-2010, 09:24 PM
#4
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Way Out West
Posts: 2,547
I've got the newer digital temp gauge. Fan comes on at 220f. Honda says 250f is too hot, shut off the engine. On a hot day in traffic 230f+ isn't unusual.
Does the needle more or less stabilize a bit after the fan comes on or does it just keep spiking?
Does the needle more or less stabilize a bit after the fan comes on or does it just keep spiking?
04-17-2010, 10:50 PM
#6
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Belgium, WI
Posts: 1,611
the stock fan setup is able to cool the bike adequately. Boiling point of water is 212, coolant is 240 +, and for every lb of pressure that you add with a radiator cap, you add 3 degrees to the B.P. I wouldnt worry about it.
04-18-2010, 06:02 AM
#7
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 47
I have the older gage (no #s) the fan comes on just past the 1/2 mark, with the bike stopped the gage needle slows but keeps coming up, just past 3/4 mark before the red I shut it down. On my bike the only way to make the fan cycle off is to get moving. This does not seem normal to me. I have never let it get hot enough to boil the coolant, but I'am sure the temp will keep coming up until that happens.
04-18-2010, 06:36 AM
#8
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
I have the older gage (no #s) the fan comes on just past the 1/2 mark, with the bike stopped the gage needle slows but keeps coming up, just past 3/4 mark before the red I shut it down. On my bike the only way to make the fan cycle off is to get moving. This does not seem normal to me. I have never let it get hot enough to boil the coolant, but I'am sure the temp will keep coming up until that happens.
04-18-2010, 07:39 AM
#9
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Belgium, WI
Posts: 1,611
If you dont want to put a large amount of money into a gauge, get a infrared temp gun and shoot some temps while it idles up in temp in the driveway. Check temps at the water pump, cylinders, tstat housing (both sides), and across both radiators. This will give you a really good idea as to flow direction and effectiveness.
04-18-2010, 09:53 AM
#12
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Way Out West
Posts: 2,547
I have the older gage (no #s) the fan comes on just past the 1/2 mark, with the bike stopped the gage needle slows but keeps coming up, just past 3/4 mark before the red I shut it down. On my bike the only way to make the fan cycle off is to get moving. This does not seem normal to me. I have never let it get hot enough to boil the coolant, but I'am sure the temp will keep coming up until that happens.
If 220f is a little past half way and we assume 250f is full hot, then the three quarters you're seeing would be the low 230s.
I wouldn't worry about it or shut down unless the needle actually starts kissing full hot.
The fact that it drops as soon as you clear traffic makes me think your cooling system is working normally.
04-19-2010, 04:57 PM
#15
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast, Australia
Posts: 963
The single fan is adequate to cool the bike, so there is no need to fit a second fan. You can however activate the fan earlier, which will maintain a more constant, and lower temp, when in traffic.
Simply add an extra earth from the fan motor with a switch in it. As soon as you hit traffic switch it on. The bike will stay cool, as the fan will run constantly until you switch it off again.
This does not effect the normal operation of the fan in any way, and it will still operate via the thermoswich as well.
Simply add an extra earth from the fan motor with a switch in it. As soon as you hit traffic switch it on. The bike will stay cool, as the fan will run constantly until you switch it off again.
This does not effect the normal operation of the fan in any way, and it will still operate via the thermoswich as well.
04-19-2010, 10:14 PM
#16
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Belgium, WI
Posts: 1,611
You could always add some more radiator to your bike. Replace a majority of your rubber hoses with aluminum tubing.
http://image.classictrucks.com/f/167...upper_tube.jpg
That way you increase the heat transfer rate for a fairly large surface area.
http://image.classictrucks.com/f/167...upper_tube.jpg
That way you increase the heat transfer rate for a fairly large surface area.
04-25-2010, 04:26 AM
#18
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
i would think the opposite. Aircooled engines can and do run hotter and often use 20-50w oil, but it seems 5-50w would be optimal for high traffic conditions.
And if you're concerned about the excess heat, change oil more often or, with a little practice, you can tell alot about the state of your oil by feel, rubbing it between your fingers, smelling it and by visual inspection. I got good at it when i was running nothing but manual electric fans and temps up to 260+ degrees. i believe running generally hotter temps, 220-240 degrees, is better in terms of performance and fuel efficiency and possibly longevity based on years of experience with oil analysis. ,
I don't mess with manual electric fans/temps on the SH, but based on my experiences with heat, oils, and high temps, I simply don't worry about 240+.
And if you're concerned about the excess heat, change oil more often or, with a little practice, you can tell alot about the state of your oil by feel, rubbing it between your fingers, smelling it and by visual inspection. I got good at it when i was running nothing but manual electric fans and temps up to 260+ degrees. i believe running generally hotter temps, 220-240 degrees, is better in terms of performance and fuel efficiency and possibly longevity based on years of experience with oil analysis. ,
I don't mess with manual electric fans/temps on the SH, but based on my experiences with heat, oils, and high temps, I simply don't worry about 240+.
04-25-2010, 04:57 AM
#19
Destructive Tester
Superstock
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: N.E. oHIo
Posts: 263
I have had a 98 Superhawk for a little over two years, and from the first time I got stuck in traffic the temp gage just keeps creeping up. I have flushed and replaced coolant and added watter wetter, but on the way home from work Friday I had to stop and let it cool down again. Fan runs and blows hot air off rad. Moving its fine, just stopped in traffic can't keep temp down. Any ideas? Thanks.
If yer gauge doesn't venture into the red zone there is no issue.
Rex
04-25-2010, 07:22 AM
#20
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Plovdiv, Bulgaria
Posts: 10
the cooling effect increases with every degree because of the temperature difference between the ambient air temp and the radiator.. it's some kind of a geometric progession. Has anyone seen a SH boiling? I have never ridden mine in high temperatures but I guess it's not that easy
Last edited by Type T; 04-25-2010 at 07:24 AM. Reason: spelling
04-25-2010, 08:34 AM
#21
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Westchester Co. NY
Posts: 266
Met a guy in my town with a bone stock superhawk except for one mod. A lower temp sensor for the fan. He said he didn't like the temps climbing so high and now the fan come on earlier. I've seen this "kit" on ebay. Pretty cheap.
04-26-2010, 12:13 AM
#23
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Way Out West
Posts: 2,547
Late model vehicles are designed to run hotter than older ones. According to Honda, "hot" on a VTR is 250 degrees F. If your digital temp gauge reads less than 250F, you're fine. If you're analog gauge is south of "H", you're fine.
Stop obsessing about an imaginary problem and just enjoy riding the freakin' bike.
Stop obsessing about an imaginary problem and just enjoy riding the freakin' bike.
Last edited by RK1; 04-26-2010 at 07:38 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
