voltage regulator HOT HOT HOT!!!!!
05-18-2010, 11:49 PM
#1
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Location: Wisconsin
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voltage regulator HOT HOT HOT!!!!!
Here's my problem, 2 years ago I had a electrical fire in my voltage regulater. Last weekend I replaced the clip and the regulator. My bike runs fine the only problem is after I took it for a ride the voltage reg. was so hot i just about burned my fingures when i touched it. So how hot are they suppose to get, and if this isn't suppose to be so hot how do I figure out what is really wrong? Any help would be great. Thank you in advance.
05-19-2010, 09:00 AM
#2
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MotoGP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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They do get hot, that is why the newer ones have cooling fins on them, since the old non finned ones WILL ALL eventually fail from heat.
Make sure the R/R is properly attached to the subframe as it absorbs much of the heat.
And oddly enough run more electrical devices.. The more electricity your bike draws, the less excess that the R/R has to turn into heat. (that is how it works, extra electricity generated by the stator gets turned into heat)
Also consider upgrading to either an aftermarket one or a R1/R6 as they are bigger and better able to handle the heat load. (the best aftermarket ones are sold by www.motovoltage.com but they are pricey)
Make sure the R/R is properly attached to the subframe as it absorbs much of the heat.
And oddly enough run more electrical devices.. The more electricity your bike draws, the less excess that the R/R has to turn into heat. (that is how it works, extra electricity generated by the stator gets turned into heat)
Also consider upgrading to either an aftermarket one or a R1/R6 as they are bigger and better able to handle the heat load. (the best aftermarket ones are sold by www.motovoltage.com but they are pricey)
05-19-2010, 09:19 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2009
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I got a 04 R1 R/R and it doesn't even get hot.. stays cool.. but mine is big as hell you think removing the pair is getting some weight off your bike but once you put the 04 r/r on you just put back all the weight plus some.. hahhaha
05-19-2010, 02:02 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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They do get hot, that is why the newer ones have cooling fins on them, since the old non finned ones WILL ALL eventually fail from heat.
Make sure the R/R is properly attached to the subframe as it absorbs much of the heat.
And oddly enough run more electrical devices.. The more electricity your bike draws, the less excess that the R/R has to turn into heat. (that is how it works, extra electricity generated by the stator gets turned into heat)
Also consider upgrading to either an aftermarket one or a R1/R6 as they are bigger and better able to handle the heat load. (the best aftermarket ones are sold by www.motovoltage.com but they are pricey)
Make sure the R/R is properly attached to the subframe as it absorbs much of the heat.
And oddly enough run more electrical devices.. The more electricity your bike draws, the less excess that the R/R has to turn into heat. (that is how it works, extra electricity generated by the stator gets turned into heat)
Also consider upgrading to either an aftermarket one or a R1/R6 as they are bigger and better able to handle the heat load. (the best aftermarket ones are sold by www.motovoltage.com but they are pricey)
05-19-2010, 02:45 PM
#5
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My aftermarket one doesn't get that hot, but the old non finned OEM I never checked.. when it fried, I replaced it, at that point it was too late to check the temp.
But from the smell and cracked blackened state of it, I would say it did prior to failure... lol
But from the smell and cracked blackened state of it, I would say it did prior to failure... lol
05-19-2010, 06:39 PM
#6
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I have an after market R/R. Anyone have any idea as to why it`s so hot.
05-20-2010, 06:44 AM
#7
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I know this pain, as do most long time SH owners, or any owner of a Honda that uses those crappy, no heat sink having OEM R/Rs. After my factory unit fried I got one o' them there new fangled aftermarket ones. I'd metion the name but I can't remember and I don't think it matters. After all was said and done it was around $130 shipped. Well it never actually fried, but it did get so hot that it melted/burned the 5 pos connector of the harness to a nice, dark brown crisp. So I broke down and spent 25 bucks on fleabay for a used one from an 05 Gixer 600(I think it was 05). Turns out any of the 5 pos connector types from other OEMs will work on ours. The suzook model is aluminum and has huge fins. Good heat transfer. The fins are so huge that I had to grind them down on one corner to fit under the tail. I also cut some little louvers into the tail plastic to allow air to flow directly onto the R/R while moving. I then cut the original connector and replaced it with 5 indivdual female spade lugs that I soldered to the wire after crimping(Less resistance = less heat). Just plugged them in one by one on the R/R spades. I live in Vegas. It gets over 110 on some July and Aug days. I ride year round and have not had a problem since I did this mod. Save yourself some cash and get one of those $30 Yamaha or Suzuki ones off ebay, not the $100 aftermarket one. There are a few how to's on here. If you search under R/R you'll find endless threads on this sore topic. Another tip is to go over each and every power/gnd connection on your bike and make sure it is clean and shiny, not all corroded and gray. Make sure none of the sockets or fasteners are loose. I did that plus put some of that red electrical sealant over whatever contacts are exposed to protect against the elements. You can never be sure which part of your system is causing the most resistance and thus heat. At least that's the theory. So I went through it all. Good idea to check that every couple of years too, depending on your climate. I would imagine Gulf Coast states would corrode faster than here in the middle of the desert for example. Anyway, best of luck with the repair and don't worry. This is a known problem with a fairly easy fix.
05-20-2010, 11:22 AM
#9
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By the way, I bought an aftermarket R/R from www.electrosport.com. It was relatively expensive, but it's way bigger than the stock (finned or not) version, still fits in the stock location (barely), and seems to be working great so far. I get exactly 14.75 V to the battery from idle all the way up to redline. It gets warm, but not as hot as the finned R/R I had that died and melted the connector. The only problem was that one of the bolts they sent me (the stock ones won't fit through the larger R/R) was the wrong thread pitch (the thread didn't match the bike).
05-20-2010, 11:48 AM
#10
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Posts: 6
I like the GSX-R voltage regulators, because they come with a long pigtail that you can cut the connector off and just solder directly to your bike's wires. The stock plug is a piece of junk. There's a ton of amperage going through that thing, and the geniuses at Honda used a little rinky-dink plastic connector. Anyway, when my first R/R went, it burnt my wiring harness a bit, and it took me a long time to figure out that the harness was causing the problem. The harness seemed okay at first, but really wasn't able to handle the output from the R/R anymore, which made it get super hot again. It eventually fried my 2nd R/R. The wire going from the R/R routes under the seat and goes through the 30 amp fuse on the left side and back to the positive battery terminal. It is too damn long and not really big enough to handle things -- especially if yours got somewhat fried like mine. So, if you wire the output wire from your R/R directly to the positive terminal of your battery with THICK gauge wire (something capable of 30 amps), you'll notice the heat at the R/R drop, and the voltage across your battery will probably go up slightly.
05-20-2010, 05:45 PM
#11
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One's guys idea was that the finned ones work and the non-finned ones burn up, but you don't tell us whether yours is or isn't.
Another guy stressed the importance of mounting it properly to insure heat sink. Making sure the plate you mount it to is completely free of dirt, residue from the one that fried etc. but you don't say whether you did or didn't.
Another idea? Which after market R/R? If you posted the manufacturer and model number maybe somebody would know it was the world's greatest or was a piece of junk.
The more info you provide in response to suggestions the more likely you are to get somewhere.
Another guy stressed the importance of mounting it properly to insure heat sink. Making sure the plate you mount it to is completely free of dirt, residue from the one that fried etc. but you don't say whether you did or didn't.
Another idea? Which after market R/R? If you posted the manufacturer and model number maybe somebody would know it was the world's greatest or was a piece of junk.
The more info you provide in response to suggestions the more likely you are to get somewhere.
05-20-2010, 06:18 PM
#12
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Yeah guy. If the ground was keeping the R/R from being flat-flush-tight against that square mounting plate, I think you just solved your problem. Hope so. Let us know.
07-26-2010, 12:52 AM
#13
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Squid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
Thank goodness I recalled this conversion, as I think that is the problem I am having. My Hawk is stranded at a truck stop in Indiana tonight, battery was dead when I tried to start it after filling up. Good news is I was not any closer to the South side of Chicago. Now I hope no one grabs it, as I cannot get back for at least 24 hours. 
07-26-2010, 01:35 AM
#14
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 30
The main problem with them is that the standard units are only rated at 20amps, when they could at times have 60amps running through them. I've no idea why they were designed this way, but it is a common enough problem with a number of their models. I believe newer models bikes now have a 60amp R/R fitted.
I put a five wire R/R of an old 70's RD350 Yamaha on mine. Only because it was lying around in my shed when the last Honda R/R died. It has worked a treat for the last couple of years now.
I put a five wire R/R of an old 70's RD350 Yamaha on mine. Only because it was lying around in my shed when the last Honda R/R died. It has worked a treat for the last couple of years now.
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