Scooberhawk

I hope it's normal. Mine's been running hot since new. When I'm running around 3000 rpms on a 70 degree day it may stay down around 190, but any hotter or more spirited riding and I'm up above 200. It must not be bad if the fan doesn't come on until 215.

Blurr

Still runs hot what else could it be even with the fan on all the time it almost overheats

Blurr

It gets very hot like unbarable hot nearly overheating....fans wired on all the time but its still stupid hot..... there must be something Im missing

Blurr

It gets very hot like unbarable hot nearly overheating....fans wired on all the time but its still stupid hot..... there must be something Im missing

Scooberhawk

"Hot" is an entirely subjective word. Your model doesn't tell us the temp, but you can at least say where your gauge is when it's "stupid hot."

I just did a quick reread, and may have missed it, but did you say how old the fluid was and that the fill level was correct? I'm pretty sure you fill it and check it when the motor is cool.

Blurr

Near the red. past 3/4 fluid seems fine and its full

shayne

Mate, I would suggest it is time to take your bike to someone for some professional help. I do all my own work where I can, so I can appreciate you wanting to fix this yourself, however sometimes you need help.

If your bike is an older model, or has done a lot of miles it may be time for the radiators to be cleaned out, or possibly replaced. A cooling system expert will sort this out pretty quick buy testing the various components.

If it is running hot it may be better to get some help toget it fixed as soon as possible.

gotbeef

Now that you've looked that the fan here are more things for you to look at:

1. Radiator cap - a bad radiator cap would have a weak spring which would cause your rad fluid to escape to the reservoir when your bike is @ operating temp and lead to an overfilled reservoir. An over filled reservoir will lead to puddle of rad fluid under the bike. Bad radiator cap is actually a common Honda problem, mostly for cars though. Check your reservoir. If it's full of radiator fluid then you know for sure that your cap is bad (Also see #3). $5 fix.

2. Thermostat - thermostat remains closed while the engine is cold. This basically bypasses the radiators to bring the engine to its operating temp faster. If the thermostat is bad it will partially open and will not allow the radiators to their job. Parts are cheap (~$10) but getting to the thermostat isn't exactly easy.

3. Reservoir inlet/outlet/drain - one of the vtr I've owned had plugged hoses/ports. Take out the reservoir and clean it out and make sure that all the hoses/ports are open.

If you still can't fix it, take it to a shop...

Blurr

Going into a shop to be looked at. Theres no puddle or anything under the bike so I dont think its the cap but an easy cheap fix and I am not sure about the thermostat so Ill have to see it just seems it could be alot of things....I worry about myself I had the water pump taken apart thinking maybe it could not be spinning fast enough or something I had to replace the clutch cover so the water pump was taken off and stuff but it was done by a shop and put back together and seems fine no leaks or anything the fluid seems really clean and looks to be moving through out the system so I am thinking maybe something on the other side the temp sensor or something in the sending unit or switch because even with the fan on all the time in 20 min of riding its hot and well too hot.

Blurr

Hmmm wow so it went into Honda and ......... It needs a new sensor switch for the fan and it needs a new water pump seems the shaft has snapped and the water pump wasnt working and of course all the seals gaskets and such and LABOUR lovely 1000$ repair............ now just waiting on some minor odds and ends for the repairs like the rear brake pedal, new bar ends and waiting for my new MIG exhaust.....also noticed a little bit of an off center in my stearing seems to be a little to the right ......... anyone know how to straiten the bars? Its not much but I notice it.......

Jake D

Okay, this is some hot weather we have here. Today it is like 104 degrees.

My SH is running anywhere from 200 to 227 degrees. Seems hot. Fan kicks on at 215, like everybody else.

I'm still doing engine break in, however. I am due for the 600 miles service (actually, I'm now overdue). So maybe when the oil gets changed the temp will drop down a bit.

Should I check the radiator to make sure it is full? They just made it ready at the dealership last week?

(Note: my SV ran at 185 degrees always unless stuck in traffic on a hot day, but even then it never went of 200).

RickB

104 degrees air temp is hot, we're looking at 95 with high humidity here in NY. If there is coolant in the overflow you should be OK in the radiator (providing you don't have a defective cap or a leak - figure you would notice a leak)

Mine was hitting 191 with 80 degree high humidity temps yesterday.

Hawkrider

Get that break-in oil changed out ASAP. It's lower viscosity crap oil that allows the motor to break in. You really don't need it in there past 50 miles. Also, all you have to do is make remove the radiator cap (right side) while the bike is cool and make sure it's topped off. If not, top it off with distilled water.

superbling

People are dying all over this country right now due to the exteme heat. So, yes your bike is going to run warmer than normal.

Riders with digital guages are typically more concern than ones with analog guages. Unless you're boiling over, return the gauge to air temp, forget about it and ride.

superbling

Blurr,

I can't make heads or tails of most of your posts. Sentences are great for written communication! :-)

If a shop put the clutch cover back on, then they should be responsible for the waterpump damage. It's reeeeaaaaaal easy to break the shaft if it's not PERFECTLY aligned during reinstallation. Don't ask me how I know......

E.Marquez

It is also very easy to mis set the depth of the shaft in the bearing/seal when you do a seal replacment. I guess that very specific diagram in the manual was put there for a reason.

Jake D

I went out and did like 75 miles, mostly twisties yesterday after work. Air temp outside was 100 still at 6:00 p.m. Got to 221 degrees. Engine seemed fine, ran and pulled strong. I do need to get the break in oil out. But it had the oil changed at 300 but I'll do it again soon because I don't know what the dealer put in it.

Now if I could just avoid the monkey butt.

I did notice a strange Super Hawk tendency. When I am going fast and I pull the clutch in for too long to set up a corner the engine died twice on me. Kind of scary. It doesn't happen if I just keep downshifting. I guess it doesn't like my all at once downshifting style. So I just have to remember not do to that. Still a bit disconcerting: flying up on a turn at 50, brake hard, pull in the clutch, hang off the bike, uhhhh. . . where is the motor! :-|

superhawk22

I've heards some do have that problem and I think there was a fix for it somewhere, I've never had that problem though. It's actually better to corner under power anyway.

Jake D

Yeah, I always start rolling on power, just a hint of it, well before the apex to settle the bike and give more clearance at the foot peg anyway. But it is hard to do when the motor dies. I have to straighten up and pop the clutch. Not good times. Bad times.

I saw on another SH website where this is a problem. They advised to "Never pull the clutch in over 40 mph. Ever. It is a problem with the ECU."

I'll just have to be more aware of just downshifting one at a time, which is safer anyway, especially without a slipper clutch.

Hawkrider

You can continue your riding style if you like, if that's what works for you. Just add one step to the process: blip the throttle once or twice while the clutch is pulled and you should be okay. Generally most people don't ride that way though. When I'm at the track even, I still shift one gear at a time. I feather the clutch to get some engine braking and maybe a controlled slide. This ain't Supermoto here, and the SuperChicken certainly isn't set up for that so I'd recommend 1 gear at a time..

B R

Hey Rick, thanks for this info. I did a search on overheating & found it. I just picked up my bike recently, & while riding it tonight, it overheated when I was cruising around a parking lot . I suspected the fan wasn't working, as after I stopped & got off, & turned the ign. on, there was no fan. I wasn't sure though, cause I thought that maybe it had cooled off enough not to need it by then.

I grounded out the wire & got no fan, then checked fuses & found the bad 10 A, swaped in a new one, & the re-test had the fan spinning :-D . Now, we'll see if that fuse pops again, I hope not. I wonder what caused it to blow??

Scooberhawk

That's good technique right there. I just wanted to emphasize it in case anyone missed it. I always try to be on the gas before the apex, and wait until just after the apex to let off the front brake.