electrical problems help
#1
electrical problems help
So basically stated on riding last Thursday and stopped to eat for fifteen min. Came back out bike wouldn't stay. Jumped out and let idle fire 5 min then lost all electrics on the bike. Speedo tach lights horn everything. Anyone got any idea if I'm rite in assuming it's the stator. Cuz I've heard the stock r/r is **** and doesn't last. Lastly this happened 2 weeks after installing my hid kit. Could the hid just be drawing to much energy. Personally I think one hid Shoukd be fine. Any help with this issue before I go buya new stator.
Also since u now need a new battery had anyone used a shorai?
Also since u now need a new battery had anyone used a shorai?
#3
Like was said, it is likely your R/R. This is a very common problem on these bikes, especially now that they are all ageing. You will want to upgrade rather than replace it, I'd suggest reading this thread:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
Onto the next part! HID lights use less wattage than standard bulbs (except on their initial fire up). So if it is installed correctly, it would not cause this problem. There are a number of variables, though. Some of the cheaper kits have worthless ballasts that can cause electrical problems on their own, although more often this is with cars that have more electronics in them. More often though it's from improper installation... poor ground connections and all that. Likely it's just your R/R and timing is coincidental.
I'd do your research on HID kits and how useful they actually are (without a proper projector). I don't mean to be a bearer of bad news but just installing a bulb replacement kit is worse than upgrading the harness, and worse than stock.
This is the best article that sums it all up that I've come across:
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
Onto the next part! HID lights use less wattage than standard bulbs (except on their initial fire up). So if it is installed correctly, it would not cause this problem. There are a number of variables, though. Some of the cheaper kits have worthless ballasts that can cause electrical problems on their own, although more often this is with cars that have more electronics in them. More often though it's from improper installation... poor ground connections and all that. Likely it's just your R/R and timing is coincidental.
I'd do your research on HID kits and how useful they actually are (without a proper projector). I don't mean to be a bearer of bad news but just installing a bulb replacement kit is worse than upgrading the harness, and worse than stock.
This is the best article that sums it all up that I've come across:
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
#4
Well said 7moore7. I didn't want to elaborate too much on the R/R. I'm still learning about it myself. I recently put a Sylvania Silverstar Ultra Bulb in my bike. Its super bright but still only draws 65/55 watts like the stock bulb. I'm very happy with the results. I never liked the idea of plugging in those cheap after market HIDS kits.
#5
Well said 7moore7. I didn't want to elaborate too much on the R/R. I'm still learning about it myself. I recently put a Sylvania Silverstar Ultra Bulb in my bike. Its super bright but still only draws 65/55 watts like the stock bulb. I'm very happy with the results. I never liked the idea of plugging in those cheap after market HIDS kits.
If you want to really get the most out of your Sylvania light, you can install a wiring harness that bypasses the stock system and gets the most out of that bulb! Eastern Beaver makes them or you can piece together one yourself if you're feeling adventurous.
#6
Hey thanks for the advice. Honestly though, I'm not really the adventurous one lol I just put some flush mount blinkers on and new grips haha but a new wire harness sounds out of my league lol I'll definitely keep it in mind though.
#7
Well it's just a harness for the bulb, not for the whole bike! Nearly plug-n-play, you just have to figure out where to mount the relays.
What it does is makes a direct connection from your battery to your bulb so that it can burn at the full wattage that it was designed for. The stock wiring harness of the VTR, due to various mechanical factors, restricts the light output. It doesn't take any hacking and makes the light much brighter while being controlled properly by the housing.
Here's what they look like:
Wiring Kits
You just plug one end into your standard socket, then attach the relays to the battery (and ground I suppose), and the other end plugs into your bulb just like stock. I do it to most of the vehicles that I own. Mostly because I buy older vehicles with dated technology.
What it does is makes a direct connection from your battery to your bulb so that it can burn at the full wattage that it was designed for. The stock wiring harness of the VTR, due to various mechanical factors, restricts the light output. It doesn't take any hacking and makes the light much brighter while being controlled properly by the housing.
Here's what they look like:
Wiring Kits
You just plug one end into your standard socket, then attach the relays to the battery (and ground I suppose), and the other end plugs into your bulb just like stock. I do it to most of the vehicles that I own. Mostly because I buy older vehicles with dated technology.
#8
Oh sweet. That doesn't look too bad. I'll look into it. I appreciate it. I'm currently trying to figure out what to do about my tail first. Looking into an integrated tail light with an eliminator of some kind. Any suggestions? Looking for an inexpensive way to clean it up, but trying to avoid just hacking off the bottom of my stock fender lol. I found some cheap $100 fender eliminators on ebay but I'm not sure about those.
#9
Well said 7moore7. I didn't want to elaborate too much on the R/R. I'm still learning about it myself. I recently put a Sylvania Silverstar Ultra Bulb in my bike. Its super bright but still only draws 65/55 watts like the stock bulb. I'm very happy with the results. I never liked the idea of plugging in those cheap after market HIDS kits.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...non-hid-19844/
Last edited by RWhisen; 07-02-2013 at 06:38 PM.
#10
Visible light on the road imo is slightly better and hey its white not yellow. This is the first bike I've owned myself and im just making it my own u know. I just ordered an r1 r/r because the forum said its an easy swap. I got a stator too but might as well have extra parts. Continuity wqsnt bad but still off when I tested the stator
#11
Just be sure to check all your connections. Solder the wires for the R/R, don't try to crimp them. And be sure to use die electric grease on all the plugs. My bike had a brand new stator and R/R but the wires were poorly crimped and the stator literally burnt out. I'm not saying that its because of the poor wire job, but since I did everything the right way my bike has been fine. (knock on wood).
Remember... If it's worth doing, its worth doing right. Let us know how you make out with it.
Remember... If it's worth doing, its worth doing right. Let us know how you make out with it.
#12
The light is brighter, sure, but is reflected all over the place (is actually less "usable") as it is bright right in front and all over the rooftops, but not in front of you. One effect of this is blinding other drivers from the uncontrolled light.
The only real way to make use of HID technology is a full HID retrofit (using a projector lens).
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