The headlight thread (non-HID)
08-11-2009, 11:05 AM
#1
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The headlight thread (non-HID)
I'm searching for the best headlight replacement for my 'hawk but there doesn't seem to be a consensus. I posted a thread before but most of the answers were HID this and HID that. But I'm lazy and want a simple replacement.
Do I need to take the headlight in to match it up, or is there a cross reference to a car I can use when looking? I don't know if the books at the parts stores (or online) have bikes listed.
I already have the Eastern Beaver relay kit, but I want more. Here's some I've seen mentioned:
Sylvania Silver Star Ultra
Hella H4 Osram Hyper 70/65 or 85/80
PIAA H4
Lucas 100w/160w
Hella Xenon XP. H4, 55/60W
I'm going to stick the best H4 light in there that money can buy (within reason) then post before/after pics with and without the relay.
So tell me what to buy and what you want to see tested. I know silverstar is readily available, but I've had mixed experience with them burning out on my cars, so I want something reliable on a bike with only one light.
Do I need to take the headlight in to match it up, or is there a cross reference to a car I can use when looking? I don't know if the books at the parts stores (or online) have bikes listed.
I already have the Eastern Beaver relay kit, but I want more. Here's some I've seen mentioned:
Sylvania Silver Star Ultra
Hella H4 Osram Hyper 70/65 or 85/80
PIAA H4
Lucas 100w/160w
Hella Xenon XP. H4, 55/60W
I'm going to stick the best H4 light in there that money can buy (within reason) then post before/after pics with and without the relay.
So tell me what to buy and what you want to see tested. I know silverstar is readily available, but I've had mixed experience with them burning out on my cars, so I want something reliable on a bike with only one light.
08-11-2009, 11:43 AM
#2
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If you have the Eastern Beaver kit, go with one of the high wattage ones if you really want light.
I have the Sylvania with stock wiring and it is MUCH better than OEM, but probably not as good as one of the 100 watt ones.
I have the Sylvania with stock wiring and it is MUCH better than OEM, but probably not as good as one of the 100 watt ones.
08-11-2009, 12:05 PM
#3
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I bought some H-4 130/90 watt bulbs from this ebay seller. Very happy with the price, fast shipping. I used to go to NAPA and get something very similar but they don't carry them any more. I put this type of bulb in all my bikes. Cheep but more light.
Paul
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H4-90...d=p3911.c0.m14
Paul
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H4-90...d=p3911.c0.m14
08-11-2009, 12:33 PM
#4
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With the Eastern Beaver kit you can really make use of a bulb with higher than stock wattage... Stick any ~120W bulb un there and watch people flinch when you hit highbeam... 
Though a side note, summer heat + stop and go traffic can potentially melt the acrylic glass with the bulb lit... Mine turned milky white and bubbly... And the irony is that me being a european I can actually turn mine of with the bike running... Doh!
Though a side note, summer heat + stop and go traffic can potentially melt the acrylic glass with the bulb lit... Mine turned milky white and bubbly... And the irony is that me being a european I can actually turn mine of with the bike running... Doh!
08-11-2009, 01:08 PM
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I have been running a Hella 100/55 for a couple of years now with excellent results. Really lights it up. I just purchased an Eastern Beaver setup and getting ready to install it. James at Eastern Beaver said there should be no problem running the higher wattage bulb and using his relay system
08-11-2009, 01:14 PM
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I could not find the Hella 100/55's at any of the stores around me so I ordered them online for $7 a piece and with shipping it was a total less than $20 to my door, which is good for me cause I live in the boonies. If you are interested in where I bought them drop me a pm and I'll get you the info. I will be home in a couple days, info is on my office.
08-11-2009, 02:17 PM
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Ok, it looks like the Sylvania H4ST is heavier duty and designed for the extra vibration of bikes, but its only 55/60W.
Is it worthwhile to go to a higher power bulb? Or is there no "heavy duty" bulbs of higher wattage?
Is it worthwhile to go to a higher power bulb? Or is there no "heavy duty" bulbs of higher wattage?
08-11-2009, 02:57 PM
#9
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Ok, I went ahead and ordered an Osram 85/80 watt bulb from rallylights.com. #CP64206
These aren't normal stock anywhere local because they are basically not legal in the U.S.
60/55w is the max that can be used here, on cars at least.
These aren't normal stock anywhere local because they are basically not legal in the U.S.
60/55w is the max that can be used here, on cars at least.
08-11-2009, 03:26 PM
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The Hella 100/55 is an offroad bulb and illegal to run on the road in cars which is why it is so hard to find at auto parts stores. Remember that an 85/80 is going to be very bright on dims. The 100/55 is legal on dims and you only run your brights when thereare no oncoming vehicles anyway or durring the day. I just replaced my bulb after at least 4 years of running it, the dim burnt out. I ordered two bulbs and shipping for less than 20 bucks.
Last edited by HawkRider98; 08-11-2009 at 03:31 PM. Reason: forgot some info
08-11-2009, 06:06 PM
#12
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I'm wary of running too much wattage in there and melting the housing, especially since my relay kit is delivering 13+ volts to the light, unlike the stock harness which put out about 11 volts.
True, but I often run the brights anyways. Also, an 80watt low beam will shine lower, so it's not as bad an an 80watt high beam.
True, but I often run the brights anyways. Also, an 80watt low beam will shine lower, so it's not as bad an an 80watt high beam.
08-12-2009, 10:27 AM
#13
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I'm wary of running too much wattage in there and melting the housing, especially since my relay kit is delivering 13+ volts to the light, unlike the stock harness which put out about 11 volts.
True, but I often run the brights anyways. Also, an 80watt low beam will shine lower, so it's not as bad an an 80watt high beam.
True, but I often run the brights anyways. Also, an 80watt low beam will shine lower, so it's not as bad an an 80watt high beam.
Start with the wiring... Then if the stock bulb isn't enough, then swap the bulb... Comparing a higher wattage bulb on stock wiring to anything on a relay kit with good voltage is like comparing a flashlight to a headligth...
If you are running a stock wiring, you are running a 45-60W bulb... regardless of wht it says on the marking... It's that simple...
Measure at the headlight and compare...
Light output, or luminous intensity drops off faster than the voltage drops because of the relationship between the two.
100% voltage = 100% intensity
95% voltage = 83% intensity
90% voltage = 67% intensity
85% voltage = 53% intensity
A H4 bulb is designed to operate near the 14V your alternator puts out. If you are only getting 12V from the battery when the lights are on, you will only be producing 1/2 of the possible light output.
100% voltage = 100% intensity
95% voltage = 83% intensity
90% voltage = 67% intensity
85% voltage = 53% intensity
A H4 bulb is designed to operate near the 14V your alternator puts out. If you are only getting 12V from the battery when the lights are on, you will only be producing 1/2 of the possible light output.
Last edited by Tweety; 08-12-2009 at 10:31 AM.
08-12-2009, 11:14 AM
#14
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I have the relay already but I want more. I'll remeasure everything when I get the new bulb.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ighlight=relay
Battery = 13.6V
High beam = 11.0V without relay
Low beam = 10.8V without relay
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ighlight=relay
Battery = 13.6V
High beam = 11.0V without relay
Low beam = 10.8V without relay
08-12-2009, 12:39 PM
#16
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Thanks Paul
08-12-2009, 01:07 PM
#17
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It sends full battery voltage and ground directly to the headlight. The headlight switch is then just used to turn on/off a relay.
Stock, the headlight power is routed through the stock wiring harness, up through the headlight switch, then to the light. The puny wires and extra connections result in voltage loss by the time it reaches the headlight.
Stock, the headlight power is routed through the stock wiring harness, up through the headlight switch, then to the light. The puny wires and extra connections result in voltage loss by the time it reaches the headlight.
08-13-2009, 08:37 AM
#18
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Fpalbrecht, what you're missing is the lost voltage in the stock wiring harness. Yes, your 130/90 is brighter than stock. Tweety posted the percentages of loss through the wiring harness. What the Eastern Beaver kit does, is use the stock wiring to the relays. From the relays you get direct wiring from the battery to your headlight. Thus, giving you maximum voltage at the light, and the light is happy because it's getting the voltage that it needs. Tweety's post gives all the good info, and somewhere in here is a referenced post about lights.
Central, sounds like you saw a previous post of mine about Rallylights.com Good people aren't they? You will not be disappointed with the Osram 85/80 bulb, and the relay kit. I promise. Bright enough that my mirrored faceshield is acceptable at night, although, I prefer my clear at night.
Central, sounds like you saw a previous post of mine about Rallylights.com Good people aren't they? You will not be disappointed with the Osram 85/80 bulb, and the relay kit. I promise. Bright enough that my mirrored faceshield is acceptable at night, although, I prefer my clear at night.
Last edited by Erik S.; 08-13-2009 at 08:41 AM.
08-13-2009, 09:04 AM
#19
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You got the bulb, stick the relay kit in there and make use of it and you will see the difference in light...
08-14-2009, 06:13 AM
#21
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[quote=CentralCoaster;230978]It sends full battery voltage and ground directly to the headlight. The headlight switch is then just used to turn on/off a relay.
So when running after installing the relay, we don't have a hi/low beam?
So when running after installing the relay, we don't have a hi/low beam?
08-14-2009, 08:00 AM
#22
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It retains the hi/how beam... Hi/low beam isn't done by changing voltage, it's done by changing which filament lights up in the bulb.
The filaments generate different amounts of light (with same voltage) and are positioned differently in the reflector to shine on a different part of the road.
The relay kit also has the option of lighting both filaments at once, but I don't want to have a heat problem.
The filaments generate different amounts of light (with same voltage) and are positioned differently in the reflector to shine on a different part of the road.
The relay kit also has the option of lighting both filaments at once, but I don't want to have a heat problem.
08-14-2009, 08:14 AM
#23
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Except instead of trying to shove 13.5V through 10 year old or so and to small to begin with cables and ending up with 10V, it goes through brand spanking new and up to the job large cables... Meaning you get 13.5V out the other end... That's the only change...
Now if you want to try thinking up new ingeniuos ways of things not to work or more unansweared questions... go ahead... but you won't succeed...
It really is THAT simple... Hard to belive I know...
Last edited by Tweety; 08-14-2009 at 08:18 AM.
08-14-2009, 08:22 AM
#24
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But given the fact that a stock bulb will probably outperform the bulb you have now once the wiring is in place, a 80/85W bulb is probably enough...
08-14-2009, 09:39 AM
#25
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[QUOTE=CentralCoaster;230978]It sends full battery voltage and ground directly to the headlight. The headlight switch is then just used to turn on/off a relay.
When I read this, it sounds like the switch is just used to turn on/off a relay!
"Now if you want to try thinking up new ingeniuos ways of things not to work or more unansweared questions... go ahead..."
And maybe you need to drink less caffeine. I don't care how long you have been ridding
Yikes!!
When I read this, it sounds like the switch is just used to turn on/off a relay!
"Now if you want to try thinking up new ingeniuos ways of things not to work or more unansweared questions... go ahead..."
And maybe you need to drink less caffeine. I don't care how long you have been ridding
Yikes!!
08-14-2009, 09:51 AM
#26
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Sorry, I wasn't intending to describe in detail the wiring diagram with that post.
The headlight switch is a two-way switch.
There is a different relay for each side of the switch.
The headlight switch is a two-way switch.
There is a different relay for each side of the switch.
08-14-2009, 11:54 AM
#27
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"Now if you want to try thinking up new ingeniuos ways of things not to work or more unansweared questions... go ahead..."
And maybe you need to drink less caffeine. I don't care how long you have been ridding
Yikes!!
(bicycle, not bike) And Yes, I haave a cup of coffe and a couple of biscuits...If you are referring to my sig, that's intended for all newbies that ask the same question as all the others, and refuse to use search... Your questions however was intelligent and meant that you actually have done some fact finding for yourself... (ie tried another lamp, and was willing to try other stuff to improve it...) So you'r questions I'll gladly answear to the extent of my knowledge...
But back to it... You actually are correct... The headlight switch only turns the relay on/off and the relay puts the power through from the battery... And like CC said... One relay for high one for low...
Last edited by Tweety; 08-14-2009 at 11:59 AM.
01-26-2010, 09:14 PM
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