Electrical Problem, Hawk completely dead
10-26-2008, 04:24 PM
#1
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Squid
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 23
Electrical Problem, Hawk completely dead
So I'm out running errands and the Hawk yesterday, everything running just fine. When I came out of a store and started the bike, it fired up then immediately died. Hit the starter button again and nothing. No lights, no odometer, no nothing.
Checked all the fuses in the fuse box, but all okay. Took the tail section off and checked the main 30amp fuse, and it was okay. Just got a new pickup and ramp, so this was a perfect time to try it out.
Got it home. Tested the battery and it was fine (12v), tested the hot wire at the starter relay (???, where the 30amp fuse is), and it was fine (12v), but nothing on the side running to the starter, with key on and starter button pushed. Pulled the wire harness off and there was 12v at 2 of the pins, and I'm assuming the other two were ground.
Is it my key/ignition switch not letting power out of the starter relay, or letting it go anywhere else? I checked all the wiring and it seemed just fine (nothing loose or corroded). The bike is a '99, but I replaced the ignition switch about 4 years ago after someone tried to steal it (Thank you Krypton brake rotor lock!).
Any ideas would be appreciated... I've got a track day coming up in November. Thanks.
Roger
Checked all the fuses in the fuse box, but all okay. Took the tail section off and checked the main 30amp fuse, and it was okay. Just got a new pickup and ramp, so this was a perfect time to try it out.
Got it home. Tested the battery and it was fine (12v), tested the hot wire at the starter relay (???, where the 30amp fuse is), and it was fine (12v), but nothing on the side running to the starter, with key on and starter button pushed. Pulled the wire harness off and there was 12v at 2 of the pins, and I'm assuming the other two were ground.
Is it my key/ignition switch not letting power out of the starter relay, or letting it go anywhere else? I checked all the wiring and it seemed just fine (nothing loose or corroded). The bike is a '99, but I replaced the ignition switch about 4 years ago after someone tried to steal it (Thank you Krypton brake rotor lock!).
Any ideas would be appreciated... I've got a track day coming up in November. Thanks.
Roger
10-26-2008, 07:56 PM
#3
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
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http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/ Check this link out for the R/R job
10-26-2008, 09:22 PM
#6
Slacker
Superstock
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Sounds like the ignition switch may be faulty.
To test it remove the 3 bolts holding the instrument cluster (don't lose the metal spacers and thin rubber washers beneath the bolt heads). Pull the cluster out a little and turn it sideways, then lay it to the left. Pull the 3 wire connector (Red - Red/Black - Blue/Orange) from the weather boot on the right side and unplug it... check for corrosion. There will be two parallel female terminals in the harness side of the plug. Put a jumper wire between those 2 (Red - Red/Black) The lights should all come on. If so then the ignition switch is bad.
This should take less than 10 minutes, but the connector may be difficult to unplug.
To test it remove the 3 bolts holding the instrument cluster (don't lose the metal spacers and thin rubber washers beneath the bolt heads). Pull the cluster out a little and turn it sideways, then lay it to the left. Pull the 3 wire connector (Red - Red/Black - Blue/Orange) from the weather boot on the right side and unplug it... check for corrosion. There will be two parallel female terminals in the harness side of the plug. Put a jumper wire between those 2 (Red - Red/Black) The lights should all come on. If so then the ignition switch is bad.
This should take less than 10 minutes, but the connector may be difficult to unplug.
Last edited by BeerHunter; 10-26-2008 at 09:44 PM.
10-27-2008, 10:29 AM
#7
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Squid
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Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 23
I'm gonna take the fairing off today and I'll check the ignition switch and wiring.
I should have mentioned that I had R/R problems about a year ago, and finally solved that by putting in a Yamaha R1 rectifier. This problem doesn't match the symptoms I was having when my original R/R and Honda replacement R/R went out. The battery still has full voltage now, and this time the big went dead instantly.
I checked the 30 amp fuse with my meter and it checked out fine.
I'll see what the ignition wiring looks like now.
Roger
I should have mentioned that I had R/R problems about a year ago, and finally solved that by putting in a Yamaha R1 rectifier. This problem doesn't match the symptoms I was having when my original R/R and Honda replacement R/R went out. The battery still has full voltage now, and this time the big went dead instantly.
I checked the 30 amp fuse with my meter and it checked out fine.
I'll see what the ignition wiring looks like now.
Roger
10-27-2008, 11:50 AM
#8
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SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,572
I had a battery have an instant failure (cranked a turn or 2 and everything went dead) once where it would read 12v on the voltmeter but dropped to zero when the ignition was turned on or any load was put on it... Not a common failure but easy enough to test. I am leaning toward the ignition switch being the issue like was mentioned by beerhunter since you tested the main fuse already.
Last edited by RickB; 10-27-2008 at 04:24 PM.
10-27-2008, 02:57 PM
#9
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Squid
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So I jumped the two wires off the ignition switch and the lights came on. The connectors were a little corroded, so I cleaned them up and plugged it back in.
I'm glad you mentioned that about your battery. Mine reads 12.56v, but when I jump the wires the lights come on, but not very bright. I hooked up my battery charger and the lights come on brights as usual. Then I hit the starter and it's still not turning over, but I'm getting a strange fast clicking noise out of the converter unit. Not even sure what that does, it's the smaller box on top of the Ignition Control Unit in the tail. The wiring diagram shows a hot wire going in, two leads coming out to each of the coils, then three leads going out to eh Ignition Control Unit.
I've got an older battery here, so I'm gonna put that on the charger then swap that in and see what happens.
Could my starter motor be seized? When I checked it yesterday I was getting 12v to the starter relay, but nothing coming out. Now it reads 12v going to the starter relay, and 12v going out to the starter.
I'm an electrical novice, just know the basic and how to use a multi-meter. Any help would be appreciated as my local Honda dealer charges an arm and a leg, and I'm not real confident in their service techs anyway. The place I used to take it is now an hour away.
Roger
I'm glad you mentioned that about your battery. Mine reads 12.56v, but when I jump the wires the lights come on, but not very bright. I hooked up my battery charger and the lights come on brights as usual. Then I hit the starter and it's still not turning over, but I'm getting a strange fast clicking noise out of the converter unit. Not even sure what that does, it's the smaller box on top of the Ignition Control Unit in the tail. The wiring diagram shows a hot wire going in, two leads coming out to each of the coils, then three leads going out to eh Ignition Control Unit.
I've got an older battery here, so I'm gonna put that on the charger then swap that in and see what happens.
Could my starter motor be seized? When I checked it yesterday I was getting 12v to the starter relay, but nothing coming out. Now it reads 12v going to the starter relay, and 12v going out to the starter.
I'm an electrical novice, just know the basic and how to use a multi-meter. Any help would be appreciated as my local Honda dealer charges an arm and a leg, and I'm not real confident in their service techs anyway. The place I used to take it is now an hour away.
Roger
10-27-2008, 05:48 PM
#10
HollywoodAngel
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 4
Sounds like when my volt regultaor went
Couple of years ago my 98 Hawk started doing weird stuff like that. I'd ride it 20 miles on a freeway to work, and then sop at a 7/11. When I went to restart, starter so weak it couldn't turn engine over. Later that same day, am riding around Palos Verdes estates, looking for our location, and I start to lose gauges and dash lights one by one. Tach goes out, then the hi-beam light, then the neutral light, then the speedo, then the bike quits. no lights no nothing. Turn key on and off three times, lights come back, and i'm back on the road. turned out to be the $200 regulator. I wish i could tell you how to quickly check this...
10-27-2008, 06:18 PM
#11
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SuperBike
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Location: Los Angeles ish
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At least with cars, that noise sounds like it's the starter solenoid. It'll make that clicking sound when there isn't enough amperage in the battery. I'd give it an overnight charge and see if that takes care of your problem.
10-28-2008, 02:30 AM
#12
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
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Yup, the clicking should be the solenoid... Try it with a fresh battery...
And once you get it all running... Go over, every connection... and I mean every one... and find any and all that have corrosion and then fix it... it drains more than you might think...
And once you get it all running... Go over, every connection... and I mean every one... and find any and all that have corrosion and then fix it... it drains more than you might think...
10-28-2008, 02:42 PM
#13
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Back Marker
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dayton,Ohio
Posts: 124
I recently replaced a failing starter solenoid on my 59,000 mi. "98.Sometimes it would turn over first push of the button,sometimes 3 or 4 tries.Just solenoid click.Always had lights&full charge on battery.Tested 12.9V at pos. cable side of solenoid,.2V at starter cable side when the button was pushed.Got one off a low mi "04 on ebay for $10.00.Service Honda shows same part # for 98 thru 04,different # for 05's.
10-29-2008, 07:24 PM
#14
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Squid
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Join Date: May 2007
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I just popped in an old battery that's been on the charger for a few days, and the Hawk fired right up. Wierd. The battery I pulled out still reads 12.45v.
Since I have the fairing and tail section off the bike, I'm gonna go ahead and check all the connectors. Just to be sure. It's getting long in the tooth, and I don't baby it.
Thank you guys very much for all the input!
Roger
Since I have the fairing and tail section off the bike, I'm gonna go ahead and check all the connectors. Just to be sure. It's getting long in the tooth, and I don't baby it.
Thank you guys very much for all the input!
Roger
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