Electrically dead - completely - Need help
Electrically dead - completely - Need help
I've spent at least an hour searching threads and can't find this exact scenario. My bike is a '98, 21k miles, bone stock except for D&D cans.
I ride home from work the other afternoon, the bike started and ran perfectly. I stop once for about 5 minutes, when I go to restart the bike it acts EXACTLY like a dead battery.....click, click, click but won't crank. Lights are dim. I bump-start it, she fires up perfectly and I continue home. About a mile later, completely dies in 6th gear at about 50mph. So I bump-start it again, she fires right up, runs fine for another 100 yards before it quits again. I bump-start one more time, now she's sputtering a little before dieing one last time. I try bump-starting, no luck and I roll to a stop. The bike is totally electrically dead now......no lights, absolutely nothing.
Battery connections are tight. I replaced the R/R 2.5 years ago, roughly about 8000 miles on it. I take a volt reading across the battery and get only 6V, so I figure the battery is so dead it won't power anything at all (this didn't really make sense to me, but I was trying to rationlize it).
I install a new battery and she fires right up, all guages and lights are working perfectly. I let it idle for a few minutes and I figure all is cool. I get about 1/2 mile down the road and she completely dies again.....totally dead.
That's pretty much where I'm at. I intend to go nuts with Multi-meter tonight and diagnose it, but figured I see if anyone else has experience or heard of this before.
At this point I'm thinking it has to be the ignition switch or kill switch, or a shorted wire somewhere rattling/bouncing off something metal and causing a dead short. I'll check the main fuse of course, but why would it die a few times, restart, then die again. I imagine a fuse is blown or not....nothing in between.
The symptoms don't seem typical of R/R, so I'm ruling that out for now.
Anyway, sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for any advice. I'll post again when I figure out what it is. Hopefully this will help someone in the future.
I ride home from work the other afternoon, the bike started and ran perfectly. I stop once for about 5 minutes, when I go to restart the bike it acts EXACTLY like a dead battery.....click, click, click but won't crank. Lights are dim. I bump-start it, she fires up perfectly and I continue home. About a mile later, completely dies in 6th gear at about 50mph. So I bump-start it again, she fires right up, runs fine for another 100 yards before it quits again. I bump-start one more time, now she's sputtering a little before dieing one last time. I try bump-starting, no luck and I roll to a stop. The bike is totally electrically dead now......no lights, absolutely nothing.
Battery connections are tight. I replaced the R/R 2.5 years ago, roughly about 8000 miles on it. I take a volt reading across the battery and get only 6V, so I figure the battery is so dead it won't power anything at all (this didn't really make sense to me, but I was trying to rationlize it).
I install a new battery and she fires right up, all guages and lights are working perfectly. I let it idle for a few minutes and I figure all is cool. I get about 1/2 mile down the road and she completely dies again.....totally dead.
That's pretty much where I'm at. I intend to go nuts with Multi-meter tonight and diagnose it, but figured I see if anyone else has experience or heard of this before.
At this point I'm thinking it has to be the ignition switch or kill switch, or a shorted wire somewhere rattling/bouncing off something metal and causing a dead short. I'll check the main fuse of course, but why would it die a few times, restart, then die again. I imagine a fuse is blown or not....nothing in between.
The symptoms don't seem typical of R/R, so I'm ruling that out for now.
Anyway, sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for any advice. I'll post again when I figure out what it is. Hopefully this will help someone in the future.
the R/R is not charging the battery charg the battery with a charger test votage then start the bike and test votage it should be hier than what you had on the frist reading if the same or less you know you have a charging problem id start with the R/R and there a how to some where on here on puting a differnt R/R on and not the honda since the honda R/R seams to have problems
hope this helps
hope this helps
The motor won't crank at all, everythig is dead electrically. The battery is brand new and completely charged, it reads 12.7V when the bike is off (haha.....the only option at this point). The symptoms don't seem like standard R/R to me.
the R/R is known to thake stuff out when you turn your key on nothing happens?
if so id check fueses again and unpulg the fuses dont just check them wile there still in also check for power up to the key switch and to the starter button id chace power tell you dont got non
if so id check fueses again and unpulg the fuses dont just check them wile there still in also check for power up to the key switch and to the starter button id chace power tell you dont got non
Sure it does, it's what mine did, and several others if you read accounts of bad R/R.
first it killes the battery (mine by overcharging and cooking a cell) then the weakened battery can't quite keep the bike running.. Then it finally pops your fuse and it's totally dead now.
But even still, it might not be it. So check the fuse (it is probably dead) test your new battery (hopefully not dead) start the bike and check voltage at the battery to see if it goes to ~14.8v at ~5000 rpm. etc. If it goes too high or not high enough, you have your answer. (could also be bad stator, or bad main ground etc.)
first it killes the battery (mine by overcharging and cooking a cell) then the weakened battery can't quite keep the bike running.. Then it finally pops your fuse and it's totally dead now.
But even still, it might not be it. So check the fuse (it is probably dead) test your new battery (hopefully not dead) start the bike and check voltage at the battery to see if it goes to ~14.8v at ~5000 rpm. etc. If it goes too high or not high enough, you have your answer. (could also be bad stator, or bad main ground etc.)
Last edited by lazn; Jun 10, 2008 at 01:47 PM.
It sounds like you have a loose connection or corroded terminal somewhere between the battery and main wiring harness. Check Batt Ground cable at both ends, then look at the Batt + cable where it connects to the starter solenoid (likely to be some green **** in there), an then unplug the wiring connector at the solenoid to see if any green corrosion is on those contacts. Further along you should look at the CONNECTOR FOR THE REGULATOR / RECTIFIER and the connector at the ignition switch. Make sure all of these connections are TIGHT and FREE from CORROSION.
BTW, I have seen fuses that appear to be good, but have a loose internal connection that may cause some very erratic behavior, most likely the 30 AMP MAIN fuse in your case.
BTW, I have seen fuses that appear to be good, but have a loose internal connection that may cause some very erratic behavior, most likely the 30 AMP MAIN fuse in your case.
13.5-15.5v @5k rpm is the specified range IIRC. We wouldn't want someone to think it has to be 14.8v or its bad.
Well, I didn't have much time to work on it last night, but I did check the main fuse and I think lazn hit the nail on the head with his diagnosis. The main 30A fuse was blown. I replaced it, plugged in that 4-pin connecter behind the fuse and about 2 seconds later it blew that fuse too. I had the iginition off while doing this, the battery was still hooked up though.
My question now is, would a bad R/R blow the fuse without the ignition on? Maybe the R/R's short internally and cause the fuse to blow even when the bike is off? I didn't have anymore 30A fuses, but next I'd like to try disconnecting the R/R and see if the fuse still blows.
Thanks again for all the help.
My question now is, would a bad R/R blow the fuse without the ignition on? Maybe the R/R's short internally and cause the fuse to blow even when the bike is off? I didn't have anymore 30A fuses, but next I'd like to try disconnecting the R/R and see if the fuse still blows.
Thanks again for all the help.
Strange, I would have thought the R/R would be on switched power. Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems it's always hot, wired straight to the battery throught the main fuse.
what year R1/R6 r/r is the best for replacing the stocker? tough to find in search since r/r is not a legal search term
edit: think i found it - 99-01?
edit: think i found it - 99-01?
Last edited by sassage; Jun 11, 2008 at 07:39 AM.
If it blows without the ignition on it is some kind of short.
Perhaps test for short with ohm meter so as to not blow another fuse, check resistance to ground from both sides of removed fuse with R/R both plugged in and unplugged.
Perhaps test for short with ohm meter so as to not blow another fuse, check resistance to ground from both sides of removed fuse with R/R both plugged in and unplugged.
Check this thread (if it wasn't the one you found).https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=7660
I just installed a Hayabusa R/R this weekend, same as the GSXRs. I uploaded a couple photos into the gallery of what I did here https://www.superhawkforum.com/galle...er/3727/sort/2
Hi Sassage,
Check this thread (if it wasn't the one you found).https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=7660
I just installed a Hayabusa R/R this weekend, same as the GSXRs. I uploaded a couple photos into the gallery of what I did here https://www.superhawkforum.com/galle...er/3727/sort/2
Check this thread (if it wasn't the one you found).https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=7660
I just installed a Hayabusa R/R this weekend, same as the GSXRs. I uploaded a couple photos into the gallery of what I did here https://www.superhawkforum.com/galle...er/3727/sort/2
u definitely have a bad r/r if u pull your rear plastic off and stick main fuse in ill bet u will see smoke off the r/r. more than likely u have a pin hole in r/r and its oozing the insides out of it wheres its literally cooking itself.
My R/R was on its way out. Headlight fading and getting really bright, etc..I found Regulator off an '07 R6 for $50 on ebay. Installation was pretty easy using the links that have already been posted in this thread. Solder the wires and tape it really well. I used the upper mounting hole only, but I did have to buy longer bolts. M6 thread i believe i used 25mm length. Zip tied the turn signal relay it works great. Now perhaps I willnot blow out another $20 silverstar headlight.
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