Electrical. Again.
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Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
Electrical. Again.
Long story short, after replacing my r/r my tach back light doesn't work, temp gauge light doesn't work, and low beam doesn't work. Everything else on the cluster works fine as well as the high beam. All fuses are good, I'm just wondering if it makes more sense to replace the cluster (if I do, ill get a newer one with the digital displays) rather than tear into to. After some searching I'm assuming its either the bulbs or resistors, what do you guys think?
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,481
From: Pittsburgh
+I'd replace most lamps except possibly idiot lights and turnsignals. Sounds like the failing R/R went over voltage on its way out and shortened the life of your lamp filaments. Just my 2 cents.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 505
From: Twin Cities
I know they are two different things here, but.... I just helped a buddy get a snowmobile running that he got for dirt cheap in non-running condition. Little bit of carb work and it ran like a champ. However, the regulator was toast. And so was EVERY bulb of any kind on the thing. Replaced regulator and bulbs, and no problems since. From talking to other sled guys around, this is sorta common. Just food for thought.
If it were me I'd just throw in a couple new bulbs and see what happens.
If it were me I'd just throw in a couple new bulbs and see what happens.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
I'll look into it. I dropped a chain guide bolt down into the head when reassembling it, so now pulling the crank case cover off and removing the bolt is my first priority. I feel like smashing my head into ny palm repeatedly.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 273
From: Pompano Beach, Fl.
Ext. Magnet
As for the fried electrics, have you tested continuity from the battery negative post to the frame? Should be .1ohm or less but it could be over 1ohm and will result in an overcharge condition of 18 volts or so and wreak havoc you've described. I learned this the hard expensive way
.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
Im going to try that tomorrow before pulling the cover. I really hope the bolt made its way down into the oil pan, that way I can just drain the oil, use a large magnet on the outside to guide the bolt to the drain hole and retreive it that way. I wasnt even trying to put the bolt in when it fell, I was reaching across to bike to grab a rag to stuff in the head to keepit from falling in if I did drop it. I was 5 seconds too late.
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
Well it really is no big deal if you did drop the bolt.
You will not find it with the magnet but you can try if you want.
There is no gasket on the oil pan, just a bead of HondaBond.
Just don't glob the stuff on, a nice thin coat actually works better....
But pull the pan and find the bolt. While you are in there remove the oil pick up screen and remove the crap that will be stuck in it. Clean the surfaces.
A Bead of HondaBond (or high quality RTV but I do like how HondaBond works myself) and put it back together.
You will not find it with the magnet but you can try if you want.
There is no gasket on the oil pan, just a bead of HondaBond.
Just don't glob the stuff on, a nice thin coat actually works better....
But pull the pan and find the bolt. While you are in there remove the oil pick up screen and remove the crap that will be stuck in it. Clean the surfaces.
A Bead of HondaBond (or high quality RTV but I do like how HondaBond works myself) and put it back together.
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