Clutch is losing friction point
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Squid
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 34
From: 207
Clutch is losing friction point
So I have a 05 SH. The clutch was great when I got it but over the course of a few hundred miles(maybe 500 tops) my clutch went from 100% normal to now my friction points way way out. To the point where if you move the lever the slightest it'll shift for you. One time the clutch even slipped but that was with a passenger, by myself it has never slipped. I was going to order a clutch kit for the bike but I was doing research and realized the clutch was on the right side and coincidentally there's a ever so small crack in the right hand crank case of my bike. I bleed the clutch last fall and my bike didnt improve or get worse so I still kinda think plates/springs. Any thoughts? Also I have a 98 that jumped timing but was having no clutch issues, would those parts all be interchangeable? Usually I wouldnt use old parts but I'm seriously considering robbing the crankcase cover as that ones solid, and if I'm that far in 
why not I suppose. If the crankcase doesnt fix it after swapping all the clutch components around I'll order new parts
why not I suppose. If the crankcase doesnt fix it after swapping all the clutch components around I'll order new parts
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Air in system
Master or slave dirty
Clutch disk friction material deteriorating
Energy saving oil used and friction material is contaminated
Any time this model has clutch issues my suggestion is always, clean / inspect/ rebuild master and slave, use fresh fluid from a sealed container and belled the system, then back bleed, then bleed one more time normally. A somewhat short cut is to replace the slave with an Operon aftermarket unit...the cost is not bad and about /23 more then the rebuild parts,,,but you get a better slave cylinder that results in better feel.
A braided SS line is also a good upgrade for better clutch action and feel.
That corrects many issues, after that you pull the clutch cover and instact / measure the drive and driven disks, and spring free length
Master or slave dirty
Clutch disk friction material deteriorating
Energy saving oil used and friction material is contaminated
Any time this model has clutch issues my suggestion is always, clean / inspect/ rebuild master and slave, use fresh fluid from a sealed container and belled the system, then back bleed, then bleed one more time normally. A somewhat short cut is to replace the slave with an Operon aftermarket unit...the cost is not bad and about /23 more then the rebuild parts,,,but you get a better slave cylinder that results in better feel.
A braided SS line is also a good upgrade for better clutch action and feel.
That corrects many issues, after that you pull the clutch cover and instact / measure the drive and driven disks, and spring free length
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 34
From: 207
Air in system
Master or slave dirty
Clutch disk friction material deteriorating
Energy saving oil used and friction material is contaminated
Any time this model has clutch issues my suggestion is always, clean / inspect/ rebuild master and slave, use fresh fluid from a sealed container and belled the system, then back bleed, then bleed one more time normally. A somewhat short cut is to replace the slave with an Operon aftermarket unit...the cost is not bad and about /23 more then the rebuild parts,,,but you get a better slave cylinder that results in better feel.
A braided SS line is also a good upgrade for better clutch action and feel.
That corrects many issues, after that you pull the clutch cover and instact / measure the drive and driven disks, and spring free length
Master or slave dirty
Clutch disk friction material deteriorating
Energy saving oil used and friction material is contaminated
Any time this model has clutch issues my suggestion is always, clean / inspect/ rebuild master and slave, use fresh fluid from a sealed container and belled the system, then back bleed, then bleed one more time normally. A somewhat short cut is to replace the slave with an Operon aftermarket unit...the cost is not bad and about /23 more then the rebuild parts,,,but you get a better slave cylinder that results in better feel.
A braided SS line is also a good upgrade for better clutch action and feel.
That corrects many issues, after that you pull the clutch cover and instact / measure the drive and driven disks, and spring free length
But that still leaves me with my crank case cover, even if that isnt the direct cause of my problem it is still ugly and stove up. Anyone know how interchangeable the covers are?
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Makes no difference at all, they all interchange
Dont forget you will need a new gasket
GASKET, R. COVER
11394-MBT-000
https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...e18e476781faf7
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 34
From: 207
maybe they'll be the project that finally convinces me to do it haha. Thanks for all the info you've been very helpful 
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
I agree with everything Erik said, plus I would first think of air in the clutch lines. Doesn't matter when you bled it. 1) You may have done it wrong 2) Air can get in at any time so yesterdays bleeding may not be good today. Air will take up space and "ride the clutch" all the time causing slip, plus overheat it also causing slip.
Open the cover, you don't even need to drain the oil, just tip the bike (a pile of tires works).
You can remove and examine the plates, then scuff them with sandpaper and/or a ball hone to revive grip levels.
Change the oil to remove the auto oil friction modifiers that may be causing it. Some will have seeped in but you can brakecleen the plates to alleviate some of the issue. Then scuff and reassemble with the bled hose and you are very likely to feel huge improvement if not a full cure.
Open the cover, you don't even need to drain the oil, just tip the bike (a pile of tires works).
You can remove and examine the plates, then scuff them with sandpaper and/or a ball hone to revive grip levels.
Change the oil to remove the auto oil friction modifiers that may be causing it. Some will have seeped in but you can brakecleen the plates to alleviate some of the issue. Then scuff and reassemble with the bled hose and you are very likely to feel huge improvement if not a full cure.
VTR virgin
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 447
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I would think the symptoms point to a blockage in the tiny compesation port in the floor of the master; this allows pressure to release from the line after you've used the clutch. If that blocks you will build more pressure in the line to the point where the slave can't retract, causing the clutch to slip. I'd try cleaning the master carefully first.
If you had air in the line, you'd have the opposite problem i.e. you'd have to pull the clutch all the way in to shift, and it wouldn't slip. And I would expect wearing plates or spings to be a gradual fault developing over many thousands of miles.
If you had air in the line, you'd have the opposite problem i.e. you'd have to pull the clutch all the way in to shift, and it wouldn't slip. And I would expect wearing plates or spings to be a gradual fault developing over many thousands of miles.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 125
From: Dayton,Ohio
I always replace the clutch springs if I'm going to disassemble the clutch
,their the the cheapest part of the assembly. I replaced a slipping clutch on a Honda Pacific Coast years ago that slipped under load in high gear. New plates and and friction discs, it still slipped. a $15.00 set of Barnett springs fixed it. The Barnetts and EBC springs are about 10% stiffer than stock.
,their the the cheapest part of the assembly. I replaced a slipping clutch on a Honda Pacific Coast years ago that slipped under load in high gear. New plates and and friction discs, it still slipped. a $15.00 set of Barnett springs fixed it. The Barnetts and EBC springs are about 10% stiffer than stock.
Last edited by ascothawk; Mar 23, 2020 at 02:13 PM. Reason: correction
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
Cadbury I agree about the issue or a pressurized line but air in the lines can to the same thing. And if the springs have to fight pressure from either one Ive seen even heavy duty race clutches burnt in less than an afternoon. The are dragging against each other constantly and creating heat and glazing not to mention wearing down.
Ive seen guys on the racetrack totally destroy a clutch in one 25 min race with this type of issue. (I doubt his is destroyed but it does not take much time to do it)
Ive seen guys on the racetrack totally destroy a clutch in one 25 min race with this type of issue. (I doubt his is destroyed but it does not take much time to do it)
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 34
From: 207
So I have already order a new slave, and a master rebuild kit. I'm planning to switch crankcase covers as the original has a crack. Idk if air got in through there or not cuz it never dries just always looks a little oily. So while I'm in there I'll check my discs, and if springs are that cheap I'll order some tonight and do those regardless while I'm in there. I dont quite remember for a fact what kind of oil I used but I'll make sure to do a deep cleaning while I'm in there.. I'd like to think I was smart enough to buy the proper oil but who knows 
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 34
From: 207
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
Either one really. At the racetrack if the clutch was slipping wed just shim the springs there since time is crucial. Either way it gives more pressure on the plates so stronger engagement and less slipping.
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 34
From: 207
I was all revved up to go riding but 50-60's and sun just turned into a week of snow, rain and Corona virus finally hitting my state 
perfect timeto tear the bike apart again Haha
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