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My Clutch Don't Work!!!!!!!

Old 12-26-2006, 05:25 PM
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Angry My Clutch Don't Work!!!!!!!

Hey guys, My first post ever so here goes:
I was replacing the rear wheel on my 98 SHawk and i took the left crank case cover off to do some cleaning. I put the thing all back together and the clutch feels like it's doing nothing (really light when you pull it), and come to find out, it really is doing nothing. When i took off the cover the Rod/Clutch lifter did come out a bit and i pushed it back in. The rod seems like it's not making contact with the spring. Did I mess something up internally?? I have plenty of fluid in the res.

Help Please
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Old 12-26-2006, 05:57 PM
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Check for the clutch actuator rod laying around on the floor where you were working on it. Or ethier the clutch cylinder is not lined up or tightened correctly when you put the cover back on . I personally never had mine off on the superhawk , but the vf1000r & the 1100 magna I had was this way when taking that cover off. Just a thought?
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Old 12-26-2006, 06:08 PM
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If you go to "General Discussion" in the menu at the top, one of the items in the list is a shop manual or repair manual available for download. If you don't have a copy - get one. Find the clutch/transmission pages and look at the parts. This may give you a clue as to how it all fits together. i doubt that you messed anything up - you just don't have it back together right. Good Luck!
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Old 12-26-2006, 07:24 PM
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The slave cyllinder worked its way out and you sucked air into the system. You will need to bleed your clutch. Do a search on "bleed clutch" and you will probably find your answer.
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Old 12-26-2006, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hrcvf1000r View Post
Check for the clutch actuator rod laying around on the floor where you were working on it. Or ethier the clutch cylinder is not lined up or tightened correctly when you put the cover back on . I personally never had mine off on the superhawk , but the vf1000r & the 1100 magna I had was this way when taking that cover off. Just a thought?
no, it's in there. But i do have another question: Should there be play on the rod, i mean, should it feel like i'm pushing on a spring or should it be solid? Because it's solid feeling when i push it in. Should I be able to push it in with my hand and affect or effect (never quite got all that in english class) the clutch?
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Old 12-27-2006, 01:16 AM
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hawkriders right, bleed it thats all it needs
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:51 AM
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Next time, pull in the clutch and tie it off until everything is buttoned up. I did the same thing and used the gaff to finally buy a brake bleeding kit. It is boxing sale week! Cheers
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by bowhawk View Post
Next time, pull in the clutch and tie it off until everything is buttoned up. I did the same thing and used the gaff to finally buy a brake bleeding kit. It is boxing sale week! Cheers
Us yankees have no idea what boxing day is!!!!!!!
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:02 AM
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thanks for all the help, i'll try bleeding it. Hopefully it works.
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:05 AM
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Bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder, if that doesn't fix it completely you may have to crack the brake line at the master cylinder to get any air caught up high in hte line / master cylinder connection area.

The rod will not be pushable by your hand, this is a hydralic clutch and takes more pressure than your hand can push.
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
Bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder, if that doesn't fix it completely you may have to crack the brake line at the master cylinder to get any air caught up high in hte line / master cylinder connection area.

The rod will not be pushable by your hand, this is a hydralic clutch and takes more pressure than your hand can push.
That is great to know!! Thanks.
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Old 12-27-2006, 02:08 PM
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Everytime I remove my slave cylinder to change countershaft sprockets I had to bleed the clutch.
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Old 12-27-2006, 02:41 PM
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That's why you do what Bowhawk says. By zip-tying the clutch lever, you block off the fluid path for the system to vent, this way there is no way for the slave cylinder to work its way out.
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Old 12-27-2006, 04:11 PM
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probably the easiest thing i've done. Thanks guys!! there was a boat load of air in the lines. I think it works better now than it did before.
Much respect for y'all!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:11 PM
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Hate to tell you this now, but the old fluid is probably black and junk. When you get time you should flush that crap out with new fluid.
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Old 12-28-2006, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
Hate to tell you this now, but the old fluid is probably black and junk. When you get time you should flush that crap out with new fluid.
No worries. I did. And yes, it was crappy.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:44 AM
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Hey guys,

I'm having the same problem and haven't been able to iron out a good fix. In swapping out the chain and sprockets I took off the front sprocket cover leaving the clutch slave cylinder attached to it (i did forget to zip tie the clutch handle). As I pulled off the cover the Clutch lifter rod came fairly far out (not all the way) and I just gently pushed it back in. I swapped out the chain and sprockets, buttoned it back up and I too had no clutch feel what-so-ever. So, I Jumped on our lovely forum and read a ton...I just got done bleeding the clutch and it hasn't made a difference. Could I have damaged the clutch lifter rod? Are there some things I might check through or for to diagnose the cause of my problem. I hate to take her to the shop but I'm running low on ideas.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:57 AM
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99% sure you need to re-do the bleeding...

It's not much you can screw up in there unless you disasemble it further... If the rod went in again without violence it's unharmed... Problem is that you now need to have the hydraulic clutch push it back in, and you have air in the lines resulting in no pressure... Ie up the creek and no paddle...

Did you open up he banjo at the clutch master cylinder? usually there is a big airpocket there...
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Old 11-21-2010, 12:08 PM
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I don't understand why the Superhawk clutch is so damn hard to sort out. I finally gave up on anything reasonable and bought a mini-vac. The positive force is required to get the fluid through the master and into the slave. It's a mistake that you will never make again. You cannot let the piston in the slave to come out.
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Old 11-21-2010, 12:10 PM
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I didn't crack the banjo yet and will also teflon tape the bleeder valve
(just in case).....heading out there now. Thanks Tweety!!!
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