Changing CCTs
03-12-2013, 09:52 PM
#1
THE LANE CARVER
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Changing CCTs
When changing out the CCTs does the oil need to be drained? I have stock CCTs and also was thinking of pulling the bolts without pulling the unit to check it with a screwdriver like another thread suggests; would that require oil draining as well?
And how can I determine if my CCTs are busted?
And how can I determine if my CCTs are busted?
Last edited by whatthefnck; 03-12-2013 at 10:03 PM.
03-13-2013, 04:02 AM
#2
Retired- but not tired!
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All the oil in the engine drains down to the sump after the engine is shut off and cooled so draining oil is unnecessary for servicing tensioners. However, due to the angle the rear one sits at, there will be a small amount of oil that will drip from that one when removed.
Just be very careful to follow the manual for setting TDC and cam locations per cylinder prior to releasing the tensioner pressure or you risk mis-timing the cams when you unload tension from stock or aftermarket tensioners.
Just be very careful to follow the manual for setting TDC and cam locations per cylinder prior to releasing the tensioner pressure or you risk mis-timing the cams when you unload tension from stock or aftermarket tensioners.
03-13-2013, 09:10 AM
#4
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03-13-2013, 01:14 PM
#6
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Just a FYI, checking them is completely pointless, and just increases the risk of a failure... You won't be able to tell if they will fail the next minute of running or not, so why take the risk of damaging the engine just to look at them?
If you know them to be good, keep riding... If you don't... Well, then do yourself a favour, and just swap them instead of "looking"...
If you know them to be good, keep riding... If you don't... Well, then do yourself a favour, and just swap them instead of "looking"...
03-13-2013, 09:01 PM
#7
THE LANE CARVER
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Just a FYI, checking them is completely pointless, and just increases the risk of a failure... You won't be able to tell if they will fail the next minute of running or not, so why take the risk of damaging the engine just to look at them?
If you know them to be good, keep riding... If you don't... Well, then do yourself a favour, and just swap them instead of "looking"...
If you know them to be good, keep riding... If you don't... Well, then do yourself a favour, and just swap them instead of "looking"...
Point made, thx. I'm pretty tight on money, so I'm tryin to avoid unnecessary expenses. I saw a video where a guy showed how to check them for a bad one. And if I was going to change them, I'm not sure I'd do it properly and inevitably cause more harm than good. But like you said, could still cause harm so I'm not sure what to do. I have a strange sound coming from engine mostly pronounced around 2200 rpm. My guess its either a valve needing adjusting or bad CCT [since they say the stock CCTs go bad often].
03-26-2013, 05:49 PM
#9
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Point made, thx. I'm pretty tight on money, so I saw a video where a guy I'm tryin to avoid unnecessary expenses. I saw a video where a guy showed how to check them for a bad one. And if I was going to change them, I'm not sure I'd do it properly and inevitably cause more harm than good. But like you said, could still cause harm so I'm not sure what to do. I have a strange sound coming from engine mostly pronounced around 2200 rpm. My guess its either a valve needing adjusting or bad CCT [since they say the stock CCTs go bad often].
If you can come up with a link to that video I would like to see it. Maybe there is something to learn from it.
03-26-2013, 10:41 PM
#10
THE LANE CARVER
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I wanna say it was this guy, but he doesn't do it in THIS video
03-27-2013, 07:59 AM
#11
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I'd highly recommend putting in new ones or Manual ones if you don't know the condition of the stockers:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...32/ccts-29882/
You've already done all of the hard parts by fixing the timing that has skipped. Putting in manual ones is easier than what you just had to go through.
There's only one "extra" step, but if the covers are off it's a cinch. Once you have the manual CCT installed where the auto one was, you just tighten it until there is about 1/4" of play in the chain between the two sprockets, then lock it down. The extra step can be written in one sentence
. Getting to the sprockets and making sure timing doesn't skip is what throws most people off. Even if you skip timing, you know how to fix it now...
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...32/ccts-29882/
You've already done all of the hard parts by fixing the timing that has skipped. Putting in manual ones is easier than what you just had to go through.
There's only one "extra" step, but if the covers are off it's a cinch. Once you have the manual CCT installed where the auto one was, you just tighten it until there is about 1/4" of play in the chain between the two sprockets, then lock it down. The extra step can be written in one sentence
. Getting to the sprockets and making sure timing doesn't skip is what throws most people off. Even if you skip timing, you know how to fix it now...
Last edited by 7moore7; 03-27-2013 at 08:04 AM.
03-27-2013, 05:13 PM
#13
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If those two things are taken care of, then it will go 80k miles or more.
The ways to fix this are to replace the stock ones at regular service intervals or install manual ones which cannot brake other than user install issues.
Not trying to be a pain, just trying to save some future headache!
03-28-2013, 01:29 PM
#15
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MCCT'S
Check out my video!
I put the Superdutyd cct's on this bike without using the normal proceedure and you can tell from the vid it went well. I pulled the plugs, turned the rear wheel in 6th, and using a screwdriver brought the first piston to TDC while watching the intake valve stems go closed assuring that it was on the right, compression, stroke. Then I wedged a fuel line hose in the spark plug hole and blew hard to insure all valves were closed. If it was on the exhaust stroke breath would blow on through, they'd all be open and I'd have to turn it over 360* with the rear wheel. Now it's safe to pull the cct's and replace. I seated the mcct's finger tight and locked the nuts down and tested by turning the engine over with the rear wheel. After that went well I put the compression tester in each and turned it over with the starter reading 165psi in each jug. Buttoned it all back up and the result is in the vid. It had about 5k miles at the time and now has maybe 10,000 and still runs fine.
Last edited by zxbud; 03-28-2013 at 08:18 PM.
03-30-2013, 12:29 PM
#19
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@zxbud looks/sounds good, but why no 'neutral' light
03-30-2013, 07:18 PM
#20
THE LANE CARVER
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