CCT install
04-05-2009, 07:41 AM
#1
hardened stihl
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CCT install
I bought some TBM CCT's and gave them to a local shop to put on while they were doing a valve adjustment. Ya Ya- whatever, I took it to a shop.
The guy was initially concerned over the CCT's themselves but I pulled up a pic of APE's and explained as best I could that, as far as I could tell, they are an improvement if anything.
Then he called back and asked if I really wanted the front one on there. I am concerned because I know the front one would be a little more difficult to install and I really hope hes not just copping out and that if he's working on my bike, he has the skills to do it.
That said, he brought up the point that he thinks it would be difficult to adjust the front with the fairings on, which may be true. I dont mind taking them off- but do you think this is at all a valid reason to keep a stock front CCT?? Also- I understand the front CCT rarely fails. Again- seems like a gamble but is this a valid reason not to change it???
The guy was initially concerned over the CCT's themselves but I pulled up a pic of APE's and explained as best I could that, as far as I could tell, they are an improvement if anything.
Then he called back and asked if I really wanted the front one on there. I am concerned because I know the front one would be a little more difficult to install and I really hope hes not just copping out and that if he's working on my bike, he has the skills to do it.
That said, he brought up the point that he thinks it would be difficult to adjust the front with the fairings on, which may be true. I dont mind taking them off- but do you think this is at all a valid reason to keep a stock front CCT?? Also- I understand the front CCT rarely fails. Again- seems like a gamble but is this a valid reason not to change it???
04-05-2009, 07:47 AM
#2
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No. they're a bit wonky to adjust (though T-Duc's look easier due to the recessed allen bolts), but is "It takes me an extra second and a half to put on my seatbelt" a legit reason not to wear one? My opinion: If you've already got it, you might as well install it.
04-05-2009, 08:15 AM
#3
hardened stihl
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Right- I called him back- his concern over ease of adjustment was communicated to me through a voice mail,
and hes has everything apart and he said the chain is SUPER tight and that his biggest doubts are over the mechanism through which the cam chain is tightened. On Tuc's it is a pan-head bolt (or carriage or whatever). The stock ones, he said, are much more clean and cushioned. He also said, in his opinion, the probability of a stock tensioned actually failing before the 25,000 manufactuer spec'd replacement interval is probably less than the chance of failure occuring with a manual one due to the lock nut backing out.
I'm stating to think about just leaving them in there. If it aint broke dont fix it... Hes got a good point about solving one problem and introducting many potential new ones.
and hes has everything apart and he said the chain is SUPER tight and that his biggest doubts are over the mechanism through which the cam chain is tightened. On Tuc's it is a pan-head bolt (or carriage or whatever). The stock ones, he said, are much more clean and cushioned. He also said, in his opinion, the probability of a stock tensioned actually failing before the 25,000 manufactuer spec'd replacement interval is probably less than the chance of failure occuring with a manual one due to the lock nut backing out.
I'm stating to think about just leaving them in there. If it aint broke dont fix it... Hes got a good point about solving one problem and introducting many potential new ones.
Last edited by vermontzx6r; 04-05-2009 at 09:15 AM.
04-05-2009, 08:19 AM
#4
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If your going to change one , you should change em both ! If your "lazy mechanic" doesn't want to ....find another mechanic that will ! Its not that hard as long as its done correctly .And as far as adjustment on the front , its a little more difficult to adjust ( not that you should have to that much) and you dont have to remove the fairings. Oh , and if I was you ...I would use a different mechanic in the future . 
There are a still a few out there that actually still give a **** !
There are a still a few out there that actually still give a **** !
04-05-2009, 08:31 AM
#5
hardened stihl
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I really dont think, after talking to him, that it has anything to do with laziness.
His concerns were really more of a concern with non-stock hommade parts being of less quality than a much more complex OEM part. I understand the the complexities of the OEM part, in this case, is part of their down fall. He also thought the lock nut could easily vibrate loose.
I'm going to have him put them on I guess, Tuc's seam just as good as APE's and no one has had problems with them.....that I know of.
His concerns were really more of a concern with non-stock hommade parts being of less quality than a much more complex OEM part. I understand the the complexities of the OEM part, in this case, is part of their down fall. He also thought the lock nut could easily vibrate loose.
I'm going to have him put them on I guess, Tuc's seam just as good as APE's and no one has had problems with them.....that I know of.
04-05-2009, 08:34 AM
#6
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Its been debated many times and I personally agree with your mechanic's point of view regarding the viability and convenience of the stock ones. HOWEVER, you made the decision to go manual already, and putting them on for you should be an issue, nor should adjusting them in the future. And the suggestion to just do one really does say something about the guys working on your bike.
I can't weigh in on the design of these custom CCT
I can't weigh in on the design of these custom CCT
04-05-2009, 08:43 AM
#7
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a touch of blue loctite on the lock nut should put yer mind at ease...
... and from what I've read, afaik no one has reported the necessity to adjust anymore than the recommended valve check interval...
... and from what I've read, afaik no one has reported the necessity to adjust anymore than the recommended valve check interval...
04-06-2009, 09:01 PM
#9
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I would highly recommend blue or red loctite on the lock nut. That and locking it down very securely.
Its a maintenance item. You dont set it and forget it. It needs to be checked every now and again.
That being said, Im going to be running them on my bike. And I wouldn't EVER run anything that would ever potentially cause damage to my engine. Not after putting about 100 hours into rebuilding it.
Its a maintenance item. You dont set it and forget it. It needs to be checked every now and again.
That being said, Im going to be running them on my bike. And I wouldn't EVER run anything that would ever potentially cause damage to my engine. Not after putting about 100 hours into rebuilding it.
04-06-2009, 09:24 PM
#10
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I also have reservations about the fate of my engine being decided by two springs. I would think it should be manditory for Honda to recommend a service interval for a wear item, or warranty the failures.
04-06-2009, 09:37 PM
#11
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The factory one is known to fail at anywhere from 8000 to 50000 miles.. And it was not originally specd to ever be replaced.. only after they started failing was it listed as a replace at 25000 mile part.
Also the front one is usually the one to fail.. It is theorized that this is because it never gets oil and the rear one does.
Finally, most people find that they never need adjusting even after many thousands of miles.. (do still check it at the same interval that you do your valve shims though)
All in all, getting the manual ones installed and adjusted properly is the right thing to do to ensure a long life for your engine.
Also the front one is usually the one to fail.. It is theorized that this is because it never gets oil and the rear one does.
Finally, most people find that they never need adjusting even after many thousands of miles.. (do still check it at the same interval that you do your valve shims though)
All in all, getting the manual ones installed and adjusted properly is the right thing to do to ensure a long life for your engine.
04-06-2009, 09:47 PM
#12
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Good point, spring failure does seem to be more of a likely scenario than the locknut loosening.
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