similar problem here. nothing happened for a month so i ordered elsewhere

 

Just got off the phone with Fred, the GM of Hollister Honda.

The problem is they have gone from nothing to a top ten site in a couple of months. It's not an excuse, just they are growing as fast as they can, trying to keep up.

Also, what I can do, if there is ever ANY problem with HH, just shoot me a PM and Fred will personally make sure you are contacted and the situation taken care of.

Sorry for any problems or delays that have been caused by the rapid growth of their on-line store.

Cheers,
Mike

 

I believe you might have made the same mistake as superdutyd and didn't use the Honda part number when you ordered your pilots.

The proper number to use is 99103-MT2-0480 or 99103-KPS-0480
and you will get the parts with no issue.

 

KEIHIN PILOT JETS from Tucker Rocky Motorcycle 2004

PILOT JET KEIHIN 21 #48
46-9635 $4.99

 

Well buy them where ever you like. Yes I do have a personal vested interest in Hollister Honda and in a way it kind of sucks to have people point business in a different direction in a thread that I made but like I said buy wherever you want.

Though if you buy from the site I suggest, I can make sure any issues with orders can be quickly addressed and taken care of, can you say that about the site you suggested?

 

just tryin thelp a brotha out

almost $18 for what u can get 4 $5

 

Comparing the price of one part to the price of two parts plus shipping is a real fair comparison.... ya

Also the site you listed just states MSRP not what you are actually paying.

So like I said, do whatever you like but if you are going to compare prices, keep it fair and include the same number of parts and shipping costs before you say the site you listed is so much cheaper.

 

Oh and if you actually use the site you listed and click on find a dealer and then just use the first one the pops up you get this:
DG® KEIHIN PILOT JETS from Tucker Rocky Offroad

Which if you read the whole thing, the price each is $5.50 and you have to buy a pack of 5 for a price of $27.50...... what a great deal.....

 

Hi, I just wanted to chime in here on this thread since it seems fitting. It looks as though many others with their bikes have numerous variations on jetting and amount of holes drilled and needles etc etc.
I just wanted to list my current configuration here to get some feedback on it cause it seems like mine might be very off.
To give a little quick history I recently purchased a 98 Superhawk. It is my first Superhawk and also first v style engine. It has about 20k on it. The only mods on it that I know of is the obvious Jardine slip ons and the smog stuff was taken off. Pairs were blocked off.
Bike seemed to run ok for me but it wouldnt cruise. It seems to kinda "buck around" when just cruising. It seems to run fine when on the gas. There are no flat spots throughout the powerband. It occasionally does some light popping on decel. It also seems to idle fine but idle will rise when it gets warm. I had a buddy ride behind me and he said it smelt like it was running rich. My gut feeling was it was too. Sorry for the newbie talk but im a newbie. I love the bike by the way.
Ok So here is what I have found out so far:
Pilot jets were #50 front and rear. Other jets were #190 front and rear!
Front slide has 4 holes in it. (3 plus the 1 for the needle)
Needles look like stock needles. Front had I think 3 washers on it and 4 washers on the rear slider.
Also in the vacuum chamber I found bits and pieces of the breather foam stuff as when I pulled the air filter off I noticed one subfilter was rotted.
I also would like to add that I found that the pair reeds were blocked off but not flipped. And there was a "t" on the front carb vacuum that was not capped.
Ok lastly I pulled a spark plug and it was pretty black and worn out looking.
I can post a pic of the plug if needed.
Anyways I feel a little uneasy about returning back to stock since its going to be a big change but I also feel like ill get it running better too. I forgot to mention that gas mileage was **** poor.
So far I have cleaned carbs. Installed #48 jets. 175 and 180 jets. Plugged 2 holes in slides and installed 2 washers in front and 3 in back needles.
I also replaced subfilters, new plugs. air filter. set the tps to 500.
slotted the mixture screws and set them at 2 1/2 turns.

Ok so am I on the right track?

 

Well it sounds like you had at least a partial DynoJet kit installed.

So do the needles have adjustment slots (5 grooves to install a "c" clip to set the height of the needle) or does it look more like a nail with a large head?

Second, how long are the springs in the slides? Are the around 6" or 12" long?

Then also make sure you cap the open line on the front carb. I usually just run a straight line in the position and completely remove the "T" from the line.

Besides those couple of questions, it does sound like you are about ready to do the fine tuning.

 

sorry about leaving the info out. I believe I have stock needles as there are no clips and only washers. Yes there is the nail head tops to them. I have the long springs as well.
My only other concern right now is that is I dont have another fitting like rear one where I can attach a hose to synch the carbs. Going to have to fab something up to make it work. And also I ordered a BMC filter which sounds like I probably should have maybe kept it stock. I can run the old one as it isnt too bad looking.
Lastly I ended up not finding a 178 size jet... that is why I am going with a 180. (All I could find locally)
Hopefully I can get back on the road tomorrow. Wrenching all night tonight.

 

update... Ok so got it all together and she runs friggin awesome! Way way smoother. I can prolly do some fine tuning to it to make it run tip top but its night and day different. I had to say I was a little leary of doing so many changes at one time but it definitely paid off.
Some things I wanted to add and have been said elsewhere is that when you synch the carbs make sure the synch tool (homemade) is about 3/4 full with fluid. That makes it alot easier. I used some old 2 cycle oil I had on the shelf.
Also its a good idea to have the right tools. Things are tight in these bikes, but with the right tools and right angles you shouldnt have a problem.
Big thanks to everyone on this forum that share their knowledge to others.

 

No worries and glad the bike is running well

 

8541Hawk,

I will echo the thanks from other folks. I reversed the DJ mod on my SH and applied your recommended changes and the performance is quite a bit improved.

Thanks much,

Dave.

 

Again, glad to help out.

 

First post Newb here, just bought a 98 SuperHawk today for a bargain (first bike). Bike runs decent but has some of the same symptoms that have plagued a few in this thread like the bucking and dead spots in power band. The ex owner told me he put a KN on the bike and and did some jet mods and has had issues with the tuning since- but we both figured it was just running ltoo rich now. This thread is great news, I will be ordering a stock filter asap and will check the state of the jetting too. Thanks

 

Took the SH for first real ride, and there is a complete dead spot on the top end of the throttle. I passed my kid in his Mustang doing about 60 mph then it lost power like it was fuel starved . I pulled over and restarted it with a little choke,drove back home at 4000 rpm and under. What controls the high speed mixture on these carbs? Ordered a stock air filter this am but it really looks like these carbs need to be inspected, any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

 

I would start by checking the emulsion tubes (or needle jet holders) to make sure the small passages are clean and that they are in the proper carb.



Also pulling out the choke when the problem happen can determine if it is going rich or is fuel starved.

 

OK, the prev owner (friend of mine) played with the carbs and could have easily swapped them up. Thanks for the help.

 

Hi Mike,
Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. My bike came with the Dynajet and K&N kit installed and I was never able to get things quiet right. I haven't had a chance to do final tuning, but I rode the bike this evening and it runs much better, also starts easier with less choke. One thing I did a little different was replace the K&N with a Purolator filter for a car. I opened a lot of boxes at two different stores to find one that fit.

 

Great thread! My stock filter is on the way, in the mean time I took painters tape and covered about 25-30% of the K&N filter to increase vacuum a little and WOW what a difference. The bike runs fantsastic all the way through the rpm compared to just the K&N.Looking forward to my first real Hawk ride today.

 

So, does anybody have a foolproof technique for compressing the springs and reinstalling the vacuum slides while making absolutely sure the slide lip is correctly in the gland all the way around the top? This can be quite tricky I've found.

Thanks.

Dave.

 

First position the diaphragm so it kind of looks like an umbrella (or down towards the slide) and install it into the carb. Make sure the needle is in position and either use your finger or find something to put in the carb throat to hold it in this partially open position. Then take a long screwdriver and first put the spring on the blade, then using the screwdriver as a guide compress the spring into the cap and cover the hole with your thumb.

Then place the cap in position and slide your thumb out of the way and then seat the cap. Lightly seat the screws and check to see if you hear air being forced out and sucked back into the carb chamber (it will kind of sound like the carb is "breathing" when you cycle the slide) then do the other one. The sldie shouldn't just slam closed when you do this, if it does, take it apart and try again.

It takes a little practice but isn't that hard once you get it down.

 

I use a screwdriver handle of the appropriate size to prop the slide 1/2 way open, otherwise it's next to impossible to keep the lip seated. Works like a charm.

Mike's method of installing the spring is what I use as well.

 

Putting something in the carb throat is a good technique, thanks. (I used a piece of 3/8" wood dowel to compress the springs.)

Quick question about the number of washers and thicknesses:
I noticed in Post #77 Dan installed two #4 washers and the stock washer for the rear carb. My calipers tell me a standard #4 washer is about .030" thick and the stock washer is .020" thick. So, it looks like he's installed .080" worth of washers on the rear needle and .060" on the front needle. Is that correct for a baseline setup?

Thanks again.

Dave.

 

The ones I have used are approximately .020" and the recommendation is based on that measurement.

That is another reason for the "baseline" disclaimer. There will be some fine tuning required as each bike is a little different and also the washer\shim size might also be a bit different from place to place.

 

Well, I will have to see how mine turns out as I was in it before I saw this thread. If the mid range is to rich I am going to plug a hole. As a reference, which spring length is stock and which is from a kit? 6" or 12"?

 

Stock springs are the longer ones

 

Ok, I was pretty sure of that, and I am almost sure that my jet kit didnt come with the short ones (factory pro?)

 

My understanding is that Dynajet is the only kit to use shorter springs. FactoryPro, HRC, etc all use stock length