Carb set up
06-05-2015, 12:05 PM
#361
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
Ive just changed back from the FIL mod to Hawks setup. On the road it runs clean and just works.
I stuck with 45s, long talk the other day with a local dyno expert pointed out our atmospheric conditions call for on average 15 points leaner jetting than the US.
I stuck with 45s, long talk the other day with a local dyno expert pointed out our atmospheric conditions call for on average 15 points leaner jetting than the US.
06-05-2015, 12:14 PM
#362
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Fran Freako
Posts: 393
Glad you are happy with the results NZ. I too dutifully followed Hawk's set up recomendations. It now starts, idles, runs well enough that I haven't been motivated to tune it closer. In fact I'm not sure how to go about adjusting for better mileage/power/drivability improvements. I need to learn since I am very reluctant to pay someone I don't know fiddle with it.
06-27-2015, 02:14 AM
#363
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
And so it starts again,,,,
07-12-2015, 11:21 PM
#364
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
Hawk, yesterday I went on a long ride on a quite cold day. The bike was a missile compared to normal. This again is making me think its to rich.
Current setup is 45 idles, .5mm shim front and 1mm shim rear. 1 hole blocked in both slides as I have Dr Honda stacks. Stock apart from that.
Reckon I should pull .5mm of shim of both our drop a main size?
Current setup is 45 idles, .5mm shim front and 1mm shim rear. 1 hole blocked in both slides as I have Dr Honda stacks. Stock apart from that.
Reckon I should pull .5mm of shim of both our drop a main size?
07-29-2015, 08:08 PM
#365
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 2
Hello folks,
I'm new to the hawk world (and forum, though I've lurked for some time) and I have been trying to find as much jetting info as I can before I go tearing into anything. I'm an amateur mechanic at best. There is some great info here but I am still unclear on finding the correct pilot screw/jet settings (I haven't touched them at all yet).
I was reading this page:
FAQ rejetting 101
Specifically the part on pilot settings:
"2) Pilot screw: (sometimes called a mixture screw) See photo below for typical location of screw. Turn screw in GENTLY until it bottoms. Turn out 1/4 turn at a time (wait 15 seconds between each 1/4 turn adjustment to give engine time to adjust) until highest RPM idle is obtained. Normally do not turn the pilot screw out more than 2.5 turns. If you must turn it out more than 2.5 turns go up to the next larger pilot jet."
What I'm wondering is how accurate the statement about 2.5 turns out max before moving up in jet size is?
Or reworded (probably poorly) in my mind, How far out can I go with pilot screw settings before I need to move up in jetting?
If this is covered somewhere I've missed, any direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I'm new to the hawk world (and forum, though I've lurked for some time) and I have been trying to find as much jetting info as I can before I go tearing into anything. I'm an amateur mechanic at best. There is some great info here but I am still unclear on finding the correct pilot screw/jet settings (I haven't touched them at all yet).
I was reading this page:
FAQ rejetting 101
Specifically the part on pilot settings:
"2) Pilot screw: (sometimes called a mixture screw) See photo below for typical location of screw. Turn screw in GENTLY until it bottoms. Turn out 1/4 turn at a time (wait 15 seconds between each 1/4 turn adjustment to give engine time to adjust) until highest RPM idle is obtained. Normally do not turn the pilot screw out more than 2.5 turns. If you must turn it out more than 2.5 turns go up to the next larger pilot jet."
What I'm wondering is how accurate the statement about 2.5 turns out max before moving up in jet size is?
Or reworded (probably poorly) in my mind, How far out can I go with pilot screw settings before I need to move up in jetting?
If this is covered somewhere I've missed, any direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
08-13-2015, 01:05 PM
#366
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
Hawk, yesterday I went on a long ride on a quite cold day. The bike was a missile compared to normal. This again is making me think its to rich.
Current setup is 45 idles, .5mm shim front and 1mm shim rear. 1 hole blocked in both slides as I have Dr Honda stacks. Stock apart from that.
Reckon I should pull .5mm of shim of both our drop a main size?
Current setup is 45 idles, .5mm shim front and 1mm shim rear. 1 hole blocked in both slides as I have Dr Honda stacks. Stock apart from that.
Reckon I should pull .5mm of shim of both our drop a main size?
Fitted a lighter flywheel and she feels rich again.
Pull the plugs and showing rich. So yesterday I pulled the shims out so she now just has the stock little shims and went to a 42 idle on the front.
Lets see what that does.
08-15-2015, 02:12 AM
#367
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
So with the above set up I got the best riding bike I ever have. 
Im getting the tiniest hint of a surge just above idle.
Front plug is darker than the back, I still get no real response to the fuel screw on the front carb. Wondering if this is caused by the emulsion tube difference.
But we are getting there. Dont copy me as in New Zealand we run leaner settings to the US due Im told to atmospherics.
Hawks set up got me very close.
Im getting the tiniest hint of a surge just above idle.
Front plug is darker than the back, I still get no real response to the fuel screw on the front carb. Wondering if this is caused by the emulsion tube difference.
But we are getting there. Dont copy me as in New Zealand we run leaner settings to the US due Im told to atmospherics.
Hawks set up got me very close.
08-15-2015, 08:44 PM
#368
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Posts: 1,456
So with the above set up I got the best riding bike I ever have.
Im getting the tiniest hint of a surge just above idle.
Front plug is darker than the back, I still get no real response to the fuel screw on the front carb. Wondering if this is caused by the emulsion tube difference.
But we are getting there. Dont copy me as in New Zealand we run leaner settings to the US due Im told to atmospherics.
Hawks set up got me very close.
Im getting the tiniest hint of a surge just above idle.
Front plug is darker than the back, I still get no real response to the fuel screw on the front carb. Wondering if this is caused by the emulsion tube difference.
But we are getting there. Dont copy me as in New Zealand we run leaner settings to the US due Im told to atmospherics.
Hawks set up got me very close.
08-16-2015, 02:56 AM
#369
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
That's what gets me about these bikes.
I am in Oz and my bike is set up completely different to NZs and here are my plugs.
As close to perfect as I believe that I can get!
One on the left is front, and right is rear.
I am in Oz and my bike is set up completely different to NZs and here are my plugs.
As close to perfect as I believe that I can get!
One on the left is front, and right is rear.
08-16-2015, 06:33 AM
#370
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Posts: 1,456
08-19-2015, 12:56 AM
#371
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
I did a ride on the weekend of 200+ks and just pulled the plugs, both are a lovely light tan colour.
And she has power......
And the ROLD did not come on during the ride.
Thats it, Im done. No more carb work.
08-22-2015, 12:58 PM
#372
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Just passing along some information.
For those that have replaced the two carb isolators (rubber part that attaches the carb to the head), and want to replace the metal bands as well, I found part #16219-MBB-000 comes with the metal band and new bolt and nut.
I figured that part number just came with the band, so I was going to use stainless hardware. I was suprised to see all four bands came with new nuts and bolts.
I believe I posted the part number for the carb isolator a few pages back in this thread. These bikes are getting older and so are the rubber parts. They're not that expensive and you will know there won't be any vacuum leaks causing running issues.
For those that have replaced the two carb isolators (rubber part that attaches the carb to the head), and want to replace the metal bands as well, I found part #16219-MBB-000 comes with the metal band and new bolt and nut.
I figured that part number just came with the band, so I was going to use stainless hardware. I was suprised to see all four bands came with new nuts and bolts.
I believe I posted the part number for the carb isolator a few pages back in this thread. These bikes are getting older and so are the rubber parts. They're not that expensive and you will know there won't be any vacuum leaks causing running issues.
09-03-2015, 01:54 AM
#373
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Now to chase the perfect set up as I now have installed a set of H Power stacks.
I have read so much on here that I am totally confused.
I had a mate follow me through some favourite twisties where 3rd gear and wide open throttle are used from 4,000 revs up to about 8,000 revs and he said that he could smell unburnt fuel when I backed off.
The bike ran perfectly with the addition of the stacks and seemed a lot smoother.
Funny thing was that fuel economy was better as well.
Wondering if all I need to do is sync the carbs and adjust the mixture screws . I didn't do this as all I wanted to do was ride.
I run DJ needles on 4th clip, 180 front and 182 rear, and no extra hole on the slides.
I have standard filter and airbox with TPS set at 490.
Will synch carbs tomorrow and do mixtures but was just looking for opinions on what to do.
The stacks are both longer than the short one that was standard.
The bike felt perkier and it was a lovely spring day so temp was not cold or too hot.
Idle is the same as before and there was no hesitation when whacking the throttle wide open from idle.
My bike very rarely farts but it did it twice yesterday when blipping the throttle on the down change at low speed.
Any thoughts please.
I have read so much on here that I am totally confused.
I had a mate follow me through some favourite twisties where 3rd gear and wide open throttle are used from 4,000 revs up to about 8,000 revs and he said that he could smell unburnt fuel when I backed off.
The bike ran perfectly with the addition of the stacks and seemed a lot smoother.
Funny thing was that fuel economy was better as well.
Wondering if all I need to do is sync the carbs and adjust the mixture screws . I didn't do this as all I wanted to do was ride.
I run DJ needles on 4th clip, 180 front and 182 rear, and no extra hole on the slides.
I have standard filter and airbox with TPS set at 490.
Will synch carbs tomorrow and do mixtures but was just looking for opinions on what to do.
The stacks are both longer than the short one that was standard.
The bike felt perkier and it was a lovely spring day so temp was not cold or too hot.
Idle is the same as before and there was no hesitation when whacking the throttle wide open from idle.
My bike very rarely farts but it did it twice yesterday when blipping the throttle on the down change at low speed.
Any thoughts please.
09-03-2015, 02:57 AM
#375
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
Now to chase the perfect set up as I now have installed a set of H Power stacks.
I have read so much on here that I am totally confused.
I had a mate follow me through some favourite twisties where 3rd gear and wide open throttle are used from 4,000 revs up to about 8,000 revs and he said that he could smell unburnt fuel when I backed off.
The bike ran perfectly with the addition of the stacks and seemed a lot smoother.
Funny thing was that fuel economy was better as well.
Wondering if all I need to do is sync the carbs and adjust the mixture screws . I didn't do this as all I wanted to do was ride.
I run DJ needles on 4th clip, 180 front and 182 rear, and no extra hole on the slides.
I have standard filter and airbox with TPS set at 490.
Will synch carbs tomorrow and do mixtures but was just looking for opinions on what to do.
The stacks are both longer than the short one that was standard.
The bike felt perkier and it was a lovely spring day so temp was not cold or too hot.
Idle is the same as before and there was no hesitation when whacking the throttle wide open from idle.
My bike very rarely farts but it did it twice yesterday when blipping the throttle on the down change at low speed.
Any thoughts please.
I have read so much on here that I am totally confused.
I had a mate follow me through some favourite twisties where 3rd gear and wide open throttle are used from 4,000 revs up to about 8,000 revs and he said that he could smell unburnt fuel when I backed off.
The bike ran perfectly with the addition of the stacks and seemed a lot smoother.
Funny thing was that fuel economy was better as well.
Wondering if all I need to do is sync the carbs and adjust the mixture screws . I didn't do this as all I wanted to do was ride.
I run DJ needles on 4th clip, 180 front and 182 rear, and no extra hole on the slides.
I have standard filter and airbox with TPS set at 490.
Will synch carbs tomorrow and do mixtures but was just looking for opinions on what to do.
The stacks are both longer than the short one that was standard.
The bike felt perkier and it was a lovely spring day so temp was not cold or too hot.
Idle is the same as before and there was no hesitation when whacking the throttle wide open from idle.
My bike very rarely farts but it did it twice yesterday when blipping the throttle on the down change at low speed.
Any thoughts please.
09-26-2015, 08:06 PM
#376
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 972
#4 washers?
Somehow I didnt get that Qty (2) #4 washers were recommended per slide. Didn't see that until Dan C asked for confirmation. Apparently each #4 is .020? Sure hate to pull the front slide out again. Hhhmmmm
11-21-2015, 05:14 PM
#377
Member
Squid
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Posts: 30
This will work with any exhaust, that is why it also states this is just a base line set up. As with any carbs set up, it will need to be tuned to each bike as they all are a little different. So you might need to add or remove a shim or tweak the pilot screws for your bike but this set up will get you close.
03-15-2016, 09:06 AM
#378
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA, South of Heaven
Posts: 342
I just got my carbs rebuilt and synced at a shop. Very oddly the tech had to change also the jets although I never upgraded my engine since the last setup about 3yrs ago. He also ended up using different size jets for the front carb (still waiting for the exact info). I'm a bit baffled by this. His explanation was that the front cylinder runs cooler and a bit leaner so it needs a different setup. The bike runs smooth but it feels a bit less responsive. I'm tempted to drill the pipes and have a dyno run to read A/F on the front and back cylinders, but before shelling money for that I would like to hear some feedback. Is it typical having to setup different jets sizes?
05-09-2016, 11:20 PM
#379
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 29
Let me just make sure I got this right before I order new parts
I just got this bike running again after it's been sitting for a few years in someone else's garage, so I don't know for sure if it was running well or just running. I'm struggling now with tuning and I'd like to get to a decent baseline.
I have a 1998 Hawk with several mods - K&N air filter, PAIR mod, high-mount MIG exhaust, and a Micron Jet kit. I think Micron is gone now but seems to be the same as the DynoJet kit including the drilled extra hole in both slides. I did have the carbs out for cleaning and confirmed the kit is installed per the instructions I got with the bike.
I've seen a lot of carb tuning threads here referring back to this baseline setup as a recommended starting point. I've read this a few times but I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly before I order any parts. I don't have any of the original carb parts.
Hawk is recommending:
- #48 slow jets front/rear (to replace the stock #45s)
- stock needles shimmed (.40in to start)
- stock springs (is this the tiny needle spring or the long slide spring?)
- one vacuum hole on the front carb slide (as opposed to two stock)
I found all the recommended sources for these slow jets are out of stock or out of business but most of the stock parts I will need are on Partzilla. I don't know if I trust the eBay sources as the descriptions are vague and the parts are all China sourced.
I don't know if the mains have been changed so I may order these too just to know for sure I'm at baseline when I have all the new original parts installed. I'm at sea level here in Annapolis so I guess I'll start with stock 175f/178r.
Any corrections here? Thanks for the help.
I have a 1998 Hawk with several mods - K&N air filter, PAIR mod, high-mount MIG exhaust, and a Micron Jet kit. I think Micron is gone now but seems to be the same as the DynoJet kit including the drilled extra hole in both slides. I did have the carbs out for cleaning and confirmed the kit is installed per the instructions I got with the bike.
I've seen a lot of carb tuning threads here referring back to this baseline setup as a recommended starting point. I've read this a few times but I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly before I order any parts. I don't have any of the original carb parts.
Hawk is recommending:
- #48 slow jets front/rear (to replace the stock #45s)
- stock needles shimmed (.40in to start)
- stock springs (is this the tiny needle spring or the long slide spring?)
- one vacuum hole on the front carb slide (as opposed to two stock)
I found all the recommended sources for these slow jets are out of stock or out of business but most of the stock parts I will need are on Partzilla. I don't know if I trust the eBay sources as the descriptions are vague and the parts are all China sourced.
I don't know if the mains have been changed so I may order these too just to know for sure I'm at baseline when I have all the new original parts installed. I'm at sea level here in Annapolis so I guess I'll start with stock 175f/178r.
Any corrections here? Thanks for the help.
05-10-2016, 04:20 AM
#380
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 1,858
......
- #48 slow jets front/rear (to replace the stock #45s)
- stock needles shimmed (.40in to start)
- stock springs (is this the tiny needle spring or the long slide spring?)
- one vacuum hole on the front carb slide (as opposed to two stock)
I found all the recommended sources for these slow jets are out of stock or out of business but most of the stock parts I will need are on Partzilla. I don't know if I trust the eBay sources as the descriptions are vague and the parts are all China sourced.
I think the slow jets are something that should be removed from that sticky. You should run the stock #45 jets. As for the needle shims, only do this if you have slip-ons. Slide springs can be left stock and you also don't need to worry about plugging that hole in the front slide.
In summary, just leave everything stock and add shims if you have slip-ons. Simple as that!
05-10-2016, 10:16 AM
#381
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
I agree with Jamie.
For jets, buy them from Jetsrus. Great to deal with. Bought many jets from them. Actually here, I looked up the Superhawk jets for you...
HONDA VTR1000 SUPERHAWK main jet slow air pilot kit
Since they are so cheap, maybe buy those 48's if you want to.
For jets, buy them from Jetsrus. Great to deal with. Bought many jets from them. Actually here, I looked up the Superhawk jets for you...
HONDA VTR1000 SUPERHAWK main jet slow air pilot kit
Since they are so cheap, maybe buy those 48's if you want to.
05-10-2016, 09:34 PM
#382
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 29
Thank you for the link. I will save that one in case I need it.
And thank you both for your recommendations. I'm going order those parts to get it back to stock as you suggest. I know for sure the needles are aftermarket and very likely the springs too. I'll plug the extra hole the PO drilled in each slide to get back to stock too.
I spent some more time tonight tuning the mixture and idle. Running better now but still haven't taken it above 5000rpm on the road as I don't have a license plate on it yet a just riding around the neighborhood. Still seems lean below 3000rpm a pops a lot off throttle but definitely gets better as rpm so go up.
I got it all back together tonight - fairings and all. Should be ready for inspection now so should get to test more thoroughly soon.
I'll be getting in touch with you soon Jamie, for a rear shock update and maybe some front springs too
And thank you both for your recommendations. I'm going order those parts to get it back to stock as you suggest. I know for sure the needles are aftermarket and very likely the springs too. I'll plug the extra hole the PO drilled in each slide to get back to stock too.
I spent some more time tonight tuning the mixture and idle. Running better now but still haven't taken it above 5000rpm on the road as I don't have a license plate on it yet a just riding around the neighborhood. Still seems lean below 3000rpm a pops a lot off throttle but definitely gets better as rpm so go up.
I got it all back together tonight - fairings and all. Should be ready for inspection now so should get to test more thoroughly soon.
I'll be getting in touch with you soon Jamie, for a rear shock update and maybe some front springs too
05-11-2016, 10:59 AM
#383
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Glad you got 'er together!
05-12-2016, 03:19 PM
#384
Banned
MotoGP
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lake View Terrace, CA
Posts: 5,942
I think the slow jets are something that should be removed from that sticky. You should run the stock #45 jets. As for the needle shims, only do this if you have slip-ons. Slide springs can be left stock and you also don't need to worry about plugging that hole in the front slide.
In summary, just leave everything stock and add shims if you have slip-ons. Simple as that!
In summary, just leave everything stock and add shims if you have slip-ons. Simple as that!
I'll happily edit my thread and remove all mention of 48 pilot jets if anyone can answer a simple question for me, though it has always been ignored by the anti 48 pilot crowd.
If 48 pilots do not work in a VTR1000 why is it that every VTR1000 sold in Europe from 2000 on came factory stock with 48 pilots? Are you really saying Honda doesn't know how to jet their bikes? Or could it be that where emission rules allow Honda feels the bike runs better with 48 pilots?
So once again, if anyone wants the info changed then please tell me why Honda made the change that they did.
Then the blocking a lift hole to run with a short velocity stack. Again everyone can have their own opinion. The one presented here says it is not needed. HRC says you should do it to make things run smoother.
So again believe whichever source you like best.
The biggest issue I see is most folks raise the needles too much. In fact if I were to change anything it would be all mention of #4 washers.
.040 is just too big a jump with these carbs. You really need the proper .5mm or .020 washers to really get things dialed in IMHO.
05-12-2016, 10:46 PM
#385
Who are you?
SuperSport
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 731
I really hope that you asking about why Honda did something is rhetorical, for it would be like me asking you why a 2004 GTO leaves power on the table but also has a lean cruise setting in the stock tuning as justification that the stock tune is best: it's because they found the settings that would work best all around, as well as be safe for engine longevity, in the majority of settings. Meaning that it could be the best for your current setup or it could be less-than-perfect.
05-13-2016, 04:39 AM
#386
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: St.Louis Mo
Posts: 317
Here are my symptoms...... Dynojet kit installed - Rough idle, loping, carb farts etc at lower rpms - not fun. I plan on filling in the slide hole, ordered up #45 pilots, 178 & 180 mains, can I still use the dynojet slide springs or need to reinstall stock ones? Also can I use the dynojet needles? I do not have the stock ones available.
05-13-2016, 08:45 AM
#387
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Go ahead and use the DynoJet needles.
As you can see, the stock needle and DynoJet needle have the same profile. Sorry for showing a crappy stock needle. It was the only one available at the time.
As for the stock slide springs versus the DynoJet slide springs, I know there is a difference between the two. The information is on this site somewhere. I'll try looking for you.
As you can see, the stock needle and DynoJet needle have the same profile. Sorry for showing a crappy stock needle. It was the only one available at the time.
As for the stock slide springs versus the DynoJet slide springs, I know there is a difference between the two. The information is on this site somewhere. I'll try looking for you.
05-13-2016, 09:16 AM
#388
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Mike perhaps you missed the previous requests...
Please, would you post the A/F graphs on sequential set ups and dyno runs you used to develop and support your jetting decisions? It would really help others see and understand why you chose the jetting you did.
We all know seat of the pants is no way to reliably choose jetting, it is subjective and fraught with mistakes in judgment and jetting direction.
So I have no doubt you have copious Dyno runs and A/F graphs that show your jetting and carb mod decisions are best...please post them.
Thanks
Please, would you post the A/F graphs on sequential set ups and dyno runs you used to develop and support your jetting decisions? It would really help others see and understand why you chose the jetting you did.
We all know seat of the pants is no way to reliably choose jetting, it is subjective and fraught with mistakes in judgment and jetting direction.
So I have no doubt you have copious Dyno runs and A/F graphs that show your jetting and carb mod decisions are best...please post them.
Thanks
05-13-2016, 09:37 AM
#389
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
05-13-2016, 08:59 PM
#390
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Prague - Czech
Posts: 219
Mike perhaps you missed the previous requests...
Please, would you post the A/F graphs on sequential set ups and dyno runs you used to develop and support your jetting decisions? It would really help others see and understand why you chose the jetting you did.
We all know seat of the pants is no way to reliably choose jetting, it is subjective and fraught with mistakes in judgment and jetting direction.
So I have no doubt you have copious Dyno runs and A/F graphs that show your jetting and carb mod decisions are best...please post them.
Thanks
Please, would you post the A/F graphs on sequential set ups and dyno runs you used to develop and support your jetting decisions? It would really help others see and understand why you chose the jetting you did.
We all know seat of the pants is no way to reliably choose jetting, it is subjective and fraught with mistakes in judgment and jetting direction.
So I have no doubt you have copious Dyno runs and A/F graphs that show your jetting and carb mod decisions are best...please post them.
Thanks
For me seat of the pants is good enough, when you have correct afr at top revs, that means you have correct main jets. This has to be confirmed by dyno, or just by stock jets on stock bike.
If the top end is correct, I can work on smooth power delivery from 5-8 (needles), if there is dip about 7, it is caused by afr difference between main jet and needle. If there is no noticable drop, needle is ok. The rest is just pilot jets settings, where idle drop procedure is good start. I feel discussion between 45 and 48 pilots is theoretical, both can work.
Based on info I gathered, I would recommend stock 2 slide holes for every setup and jet kit, but I respect Mike has different suggestion.
I agree on needles shimmed too much, I think needles works good when they are on stock position or close to stock.
Just my two cents, when I look on various dynos, I saw so many working setups it leads me to think there is not only one correct answer
Last edited by Stephan; 05-13-2016 at 09:05 PM.
