Carb jet/engine damage question
03-21-2010, 02:25 PM
#1
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Carb jet/engine damage question
Hello. I have a 2000 Hawk with a devil high mount exhaust. The previous owner didn't jet the carbs. I know I need to get it done. Problem is I can't afford it until May. Will this cause engine damage? Dealer says no, but wanted to see what some of you had to say. Thanks
03-21-2010, 02:32 PM
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Form what I have read on this forum, I would say no it wont damage anything. I have Erion Racing slip ons and I am still running stock jetting on my bike. It runs just a lil rich even after carb synching and adjusting. I was told by a fellow rider that it wont do any damage. Hope that helps you out.
03-21-2010, 02:38 PM
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Thanks for answering. Makes me feel better. I would hate to let it sit until May. I was knida worried about burning up a piston or the valves. Any others with input, I'd love to hear it. Thanks
03-21-2010, 02:51 PM
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03-21-2010, 02:54 PM
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Also make sure to set the TPS while you have the carbs out.
03-21-2010, 04:34 PM
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Yes the TPS is the throttle position sensor. They are all set high from the factory. Spec is 490 ohms =\- 10 ohms and usually they are set in the 800-900 ohm range. In order to get a good idle and low speed driveability you need to set it to spec by removing the tamper proof screws and replace them with allen heads.
03-22-2010, 11:27 AM
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Yes I am pretty sure If I remember right. Had cornandp up here in seattle at the end of december and he showed me how to synch the carbs and remove them. When we had the carbs off we checked to see if the bike had a jet kit and it didnt. He told me that a jet kit would help but if the bike runs fine on the stock settings then to just ride it how it is.
03-22-2010, 12:47 PM
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Well you won't do any damage but you can get everything dialed in for under $15. All you need to do is replace the pilot jets with #48s and shim then needles up .040 and the bike will run as good if not better than any jet kit you can buy, well except for the HRC kit (if you can find on and are will to pay $230 or more for a jet kit)
Also make sure to set the TPS while you have the carbs out.
Also make sure to set the TPS while you have the carbs out.
03-22-2010, 12:58 PM
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Last, as someone who has worked on motors but never carbs, let alone on a motorcycle, is this even something I can handle? I know I just asked a mouthful. I'm hoping with the help of forum members and advice from the dealer if I get stuck I can do this. Let me know. Thanks
Cheers,
Mike
03-22-2010, 12:59 PM
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Yes I am pretty sure If I remember right. Had cornandp up here in seattle at the end of december and he showed me how to synch the carbs and remove them. When we had the carbs off we checked to see if the bike had a jet kit and it didnt. He told me that a jet kit would help but if the bike runs fine on the stock settings then to just ride it how it is.
03-22-2010, 01:12 PM
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8541 Hawk. Stupid question. To determine if I am still running too lean after the shimming, do I need to put the bike on the dyno? Or is this something I can tell simply by riding it?
03-22-2010, 09:55 PM
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Well the only way to know for sure is to do a dyno pull. You can get close with the seat of the pants method and for a lot of people that is good enough.
03-22-2010, 11:08 PM
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Thanks. Gonna try to get started tomorrow. Seems as if I'm gonna need a special tool to adjust the pilot screws from what I read in other threads. Is this the case? I also downloaded the service manual. Hopefully this keeps me from screwing it up. I'll post any questions. I'm sure there will be more. Haha. I really appreciate your help.
03-22-2010, 11:14 PM
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Oh yeah I forgot to ask. Do I need to sync the carbs after I complete the shimming and changing the pilots? I would assume as much, but not sure. The less I have to do the lower the chances of screwing something up.
03-23-2010, 09:35 AM
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There is a special "D" shaped tool you can use or the common "fix" is to take a dremel and make a screwdriver slot in the end of the pilot so you can adjust them. Yes the carbs need to be sync'd when you are done and should be checked from time to time as normal maintenance.
After re-reading this the only a couple of small things that were left out.
1) to get the needles out, take one of the screws that held the slide in place and thread it into the needle holder and use it to pull it out.
2) when you pull the needles, there will be 1 washer under each needle. remove it from the front carb but leave it in the rear to shim the rear needle a little more than the front. (just like the staggered jetting)
3) To re install the slides, put the slide in the carb (making sue the needle is in the needle jet) and find something (I have big hands so i just hole it with my finger) to put in the throat of the carb to hold the slide about half way up (so the diaphragm is resting in the full down position) then to install the spring, take a long screw drive and use it to hold the spring while you compress it, hold it inside the cap and kind of slide you finger out of the way when you pop the cap back on. It's not that hard, just takes a little practice.... When the cap is back on, lift the slide and let it close. You should hear air blow out when you push up and hear air being sucked in when you release it. If you don't hear anything and the slide just slams closed the diaphragm is not properly installed (you can try it before you take them apart to see what it should sound and feel like)
4) on the #48 pilots, set the front on at 1.5 turns out and the rear at 1.75 turns as a starting point.
Let me know if you have any problems and you can shoot me a PM and i'll send you my number in case you run into problems and would rather call than try to ask questions here.
Cheers,
Mike
After re-reading this the only a couple of small things that were left out.
1) to get the needles out, take one of the screws that held the slide in place and thread it into the needle holder and use it to pull it out.
2) when you pull the needles, there will be 1 washer under each needle. remove it from the front carb but leave it in the rear to shim the rear needle a little more than the front. (just like the staggered jetting)
3) To re install the slides, put the slide in the carb (making sue the needle is in the needle jet) and find something (I have big hands so i just hole it with my finger) to put in the throat of the carb to hold the slide about half way up (so the diaphragm is resting in the full down position) then to install the spring, take a long screw drive and use it to hold the spring while you compress it, hold it inside the cap and kind of slide you finger out of the way when you pop the cap back on. It's not that hard, just takes a little practice.... When the cap is back on, lift the slide and let it close. You should hear air blow out when you push up and hear air being sucked in when you release it. If you don't hear anything and the slide just slams closed the diaphragm is not properly installed (you can try it before you take them apart to see what it should sound and feel like)
4) on the #48 pilots, set the front on at 1.5 turns out and the rear at 1.75 turns as a starting point.
Let me know if you have any problems and you can shoot me a PM and i'll send you my number in case you run into problems and would rather call than try to ask questions here.
Cheers,
Mike
03-24-2010, 09:36 AM
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Thanks for all your help Hawk. I worked long into the night, but I got her done. No more hiccups in first gear under quarter throttle. You were right about that spring. It was a bitch. Closest I could get the TPS was about 600 ohms. It feels ok, but I'm probably gonna get a pull on the dyno just to check my fuel mixture. And, I'm also curious about my rwhp. Again, thanks a lot.
Steve
Steve
03-24-2010, 10:26 AM
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Geeze, I love this site. So often reading these threads I get the same feeling I get while watching a teenager holding a door open for a post menopausal adult. But without the purse snatching.
03-24-2010, 12:23 PM
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