Carb jet Question
10-19-2010, 07:15 AM
#1
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Squid
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Location: Jupiter, Florida
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Carb jet Question
After sitting for a couple of months my bike wouldn't idle and ran very ruff at low speeds. I pulled the tank, changed the air filter. The two little filter no longer existed. (looked like they had evaporated). New plugs. All this hoping to get around jetting. Loaded up with SeaFoam and ran it a few times. Better but still not right. Hadn't had a chance to run it again for a couple of weeks. Had to start it using full choke and had to leave it out to keep it running. Again, low speed running very ruff and had to keep blipping to keep it up. On the highway, into the throttle, it's ok. As soon as I let off, it dies. So, I guess it't time for a jet kit. Threads say Factory pro is the one to use. I've read the "How To" for rejetting. I also see the "additional things needed" thread. This one says a carb sync is mandatory if you rejet. Is that necessary?
It's a 98 with 15K miles on it. I've done the rectifier swap and installed Trucks CCT's so I think I can follow instructions for the carbs. So, the bottom line is this; Does it sound like it needs a jet kit? Is the Factory pro kit all inclusive? If I pull the carbs to do the kit, is this forcing me to perform any other tasks? if so, which ones? Sync , TPS.
Thanks for any input.
It's a 98 with 15K miles on it. I've done the rectifier swap and installed Trucks CCT's so I think I can follow instructions for the carbs. So, the bottom line is this; Does it sound like it needs a jet kit? Is the Factory pro kit all inclusive? If I pull the carbs to do the kit, is this forcing me to perform any other tasks? if so, which ones? Sync , TPS.
Thanks for any input.
10-19-2010, 07:40 AM
#2
Former Superchicken Owner
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Sounds like you need to pull your carbs and clean up the low speed needles instead of throwing other jets into it. You should be proficient at the TPS adjustment as well as synching the carbs.
10-19-2010, 08:08 AM
#3
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SuperSport
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Forcing? No... other than the sync which ought to be done whenever the carbs are pulled. Mostly the other stuff is recommended cause you're in there anyway.
Do you "need a jet kit"? nope to that too. Sounds like you need to clean carbs. Did it all work to your satisfaction before? If so then forget the kit.
You should get those little filters replaced.
Do you "need a jet kit"? nope to that too. Sounds like you need to clean carbs. Did it all work to your satisfaction before? If so then forget the kit.
You should get those little filters replaced.
10-19-2010, 08:54 AM
#4
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Squid
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Thanks guys. I guess "forced" was a bit much. I meant that if I pulled them to clean or re-jet did it become necessary to have it run right. Yes, up until the time it wasn't being ridden regularly, it ran fine. It does have a set of Two Brothers pipes but I bought it with them. I did replace the little filters. I kind of think the way they disintegrated, may be some of the problem. Is there a best way to clean the needles?
10-19-2010, 09:27 AM
#5
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Diassemble the carbs , clean all the jets (pilot , main ) . Spray all orifices in the carburetor housing .You can use carb / choke cleaner or brake cleaner . Do not spray anything on the slide / diaphragm assembly as the rubber will swell and lose its shape . Remove the fuel screws counting how many turns out they are and jot this down to remember this for reassembly (they are 2 3/4 turns OEM ) . Also remove the float valves ( do not spray with any cleaners as well) and floats . Clean the entire housing and all the jets , reassemble and you are good . Also there are small o-rings , springs , and washers underneath the fuel screws , they are very small and can be lost very easily . Remove all of this for cleaning (of the housing orifice not these pieces , just set these aside ) and refer to your service manual for proper orientation upon reassembly . The needles shouldnt need cleaning , just inspect them to make sure they are set up correctly and check for any scoring or wear .
Last edited by motormouth; 10-19-2010 at 12:01 PM.
10-19-2010, 11:29 AM
#6
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Also when removing fuel screws turn clockwise counting revolutions till lightly seated . Then remove fuel screws , when reinstalling turn clockwise till lightly seated and turn out the screws to the previous counted revolutions . Also it may be necessary to soak the jets if any are clogged .
Last edited by motormouth; 10-19-2010 at 11:33 AM.
10-19-2010, 11:44 AM
#7
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Not sure exactly what you mean by remove the throttle valves.....
Otherwise the things you need to be careful of are:
The emulsion tubes are different from front to rear, so don't get them mixed up.
Also if it has the stock needles, they are different front to rear also.
The filters coming apart may be causing the slides to stick, so make sure you clean the bodies very well.
Otherwise the things you need to be careful of are:
The emulsion tubes are different from front to rear, so don't get them mixed up.
Also if it has the stock needles, they are different front to rear also.
The filters coming apart may be causing the slides to stick, so make sure you clean the bodies very well.
10-19-2010, 11:58 AM
#8
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Not sure exactly what you mean by remove the throttle valves.....
Otherwise the things you need to be careful of are:
The emulsion tubes are different from front to rear, so don't get them mixed up.
Also if it has the stock needles, they are different front to rear also.
The filters coming apart may be causing the slides to stick, so make sure you clean the bodies very well.
Otherwise the things you need to be careful of are:
The emulsion tubes are different from front to rear, so don't get them mixed up.
Also if it has the stock needles, they are different front to rear also.
The filters coming apart may be causing the slides to stick, so make sure you clean the bodies very well.
I actually meant float valve . I stand corrected . Thanks .
Last edited by motormouth; 10-19-2010 at 12:03 PM.
10-20-2010, 07:29 AM
#10
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10-20-2010, 10:08 AM
#11
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Make sure you soak the pilot (slow) jets in carb spray to dissolve all the crap that plugs them up. Then blow out with more carb spray followed by compressed air.
If you remove the pilot screws, you should clean the tips of them as well.
Disassemble and reassemble one carb at a time to prevent mixing parts.
10-20-2010, 10:22 AM
#12
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Superstock
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I'd bet you got the remnants of the little foam filters stuck in the jets. They disintegrate into little pieces and can clog up the holes. If your pilot jet is clogged, it won't idle very well but might run fine (or at least relatively fine) at higher RPM.
10-21-2010, 06:11 AM
#13
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Squid
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Evines,
My thoughts as well. And I'll do as VTRSurfer suggests and do one at a time. Makes sense. Since I'll have it apart what are the thoughts about the TPS? Looks like about 50/50 on the posts. If I wasn't having any issues before this, should I just leave it alone? And, if I do mess with it, after removing and replacing the non-screw things, is the actual adjustment made by turning it counter clockwise? Posts seem to show that the "after" adjustment has it turned as far as the bolts let it go. And that's without going inside and adjusting the flap inside to get more.
My thoughts as well. And I'll do as VTRSurfer suggests and do one at a time. Makes sense. Since I'll have it apart what are the thoughts about the TPS? Looks like about 50/50 on the posts. If I wasn't having any issues before this, should I just leave it alone? And, if I do mess with it, after removing and replacing the non-screw things, is the actual adjustment made by turning it counter clockwise? Posts seem to show that the "after" adjustment has it turned as far as the bolts let it go. And that's without going inside and adjusting the flap inside to get more.
10-21-2010, 06:42 AM
#14
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Superstock
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When I did the TPS adjustment I really couldn't notice a difference. And my TPS kinda fell apart while I was removing it (it cracked at the bolt holes, and the crack extended up to where the flap and spring are located internally). After inspecting it, I realized that the metal that it's bolted to was bent slightly, and that bend had cracked the TPS plastic. I thought it was ruined, but I was able to piece it back together with JB Weld. It's held for the last 4 months at least . . .
My recommendation would be to not make the adjustment unless you are experiencing the problems associated with it. It's an easy adjustment to make, but things can go wrong.
If you want to do the adjustment, yes, just turn the whole thing counter-clockwise. Small adjustments make a big difference in the ohms. I had to drill out the holes a little bit to get down to 540, and that was good enough for me.
My recommendation would be to not make the adjustment unless you are experiencing the problems associated with it. It's an easy adjustment to make, but things can go wrong.
If you want to do the adjustment, yes, just turn the whole thing counter-clockwise. Small adjustments make a big difference in the ohms. I had to drill out the holes a little bit to get down to 540, and that was good enough for me.
11-06-2010, 12:22 PM
#15
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A great big thanks to everyone. My son (A duck rider),and I pulled the carbs. We found pieces of the little filters inside. The fuel screws were clogged. Cleaned them and set at 2 3/4 out. (That's not were they were, but we'll see). Cleaned up everything else and put em back together. Decided to check the tps and found it at 1050. Dremeled the non screws and got it down to 535. Put it all back together and then NOTHING. Wouldn't start. Stopped and ate lunch. Went back and found we missed the vacume hose going to the fuel tap. Fired right up. I had to get the idle set back down because I had it so high to keep it running before. Settled right in at 1K. No burping or missing. I've got to do some hubby things the rest of the day but plan on getting some time on it tomorrow. The weather here in south florida just changed and more suited for jacket type riding. We'll see if it still needs some fine tuning. Thanks again for a great forum and information sharing.
11-07-2010, 06:18 AM
#17
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Squid
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I thought that might be misinterpeted. No, I only ride suited up. Even if it's only up to the grocery store around the corner. Statistics show that most accidents happen close to one's home. Idea being you get relaxed as you enter familiar surroundings. My meaning is that in So. Fla., in the summer, 92-95 degrees, suited up, sitting at a stop light, it gets hot. This morning it is in the mid 60's. It's a nice change.
11-16-2010, 11:29 AM
#19
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Squid
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i put together a video installing my stage 1 dyno jet kit in my super hawk (190 front jet & 195 rear jet)
http://www.youtube.com/user/capecodc.../0/WpMHsmIBcmE
http://www.youtube.com/user/capecodc.../0/WpMHsmIBcmE
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