Bogged down Rattle
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 21
Bogged down Rattle
Hey,
Just wondering if this is normal. While accelerating from a high gear (2000 rpm in 4th) My bike has a little rattle that will go away as soon as the engine begins to build power. I've already replaced the CCT with APE manuals. I have a 1998 SH w/ 6000 miles. Thanks
Jon
Just wondering if this is normal. While accelerating from a high gear (2000 rpm in 4th) My bike has a little rattle that will go away as soon as the engine begins to build power. I've already replaced the CCT with APE manuals. I have a 1998 SH w/ 6000 miles. Thanks
Jon
ole dirty bastard
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 976
From: my house
Originally Posted by jtgraha2
Hey,
Just wondering if this is normal. While accelerating from a high gear (2000 rpm in 4th) My bike has a little rattle that will go away as soon as the engine begins to build power. I've already replaced the CCT with APE manuals. I have a 1998 SH w/ 6000 miles. Thanks
Jon
Just wondering if this is normal. While accelerating from a high gear (2000 rpm in 4th) My bike has a little rattle that will go away as soon as the engine begins to build power. I've already replaced the CCT with APE manuals. I have a 1998 SH w/ 6000 miles. Thanks
Jon
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 21
yeah previous owner never rode it. For example whenever i turn onto a road.....2nd gear starting from 2-3K and then if i get on it i can hear a little rattle. shouldn't this bike handle a pull from 2-3k without any strange noises? Maybe i'm just paranoid with the new bike
jon
jon
Senior Member
SuperSport
SuperSport
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 809
From: North Wales, PA
ahhh, thank god!! I'm so glad somebody else talked about it. I have been noticing a similar noise, that I thought had been there before but couldn't remember for sure. paranoid about the cam chain tensioner, I took it to a shop and had a guy listen to it. he said he thought the cct's sounded fine. couldn't really hear wat I was talking about. its more obvious when you're riding it. its a ticking between 2k, and 4k that goes away or gets drowned out when you really get on it. I too was worried about the valves, but I haven't noticed it getting any louder. but I guess its just normal engine noise huh? my last bike was like that too. it used to freak me out then too.
Senior Member
SuperSport
SuperSport
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 809
From: North Wales, PA
that's hillarious. my APE's should be arriving this week lol. same damn thing. I'll probably still have them installed. seems prudent. but I'm not stressing the ticking anymore.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 176
From: Chandler, AZ
I've been wondering the same thing! I was originally thinking it was some kind of pre-igniton/detonation problem! I've been caught in situations where I've slowed down, but haven't shifted down enough times, so I'm still in too high of a gear and hear that. I didn't check my manual. Does it say in there that if you lug the bike down it'll make that noise or something??
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 402
From: Florida
Lugging the engine.....
http://home.hamptonroads.com/stories...8031&ran=43046
probably not a good idea
From another web page:
"Lugging an engine means putting the engine under an extremely stressful load. A common way to lug an engine is to operate it at an extremely low rpm while the transmission is in a higher gear (for instance, leaving the transmission in fourth gear when it should be in second or third where engine speed is better matched to transmission speed). Lugging causes extreme stress between the rear thrust faces of each piston and the cylinder walls. Small bits of piston skirt can break away causing the rear surface to scuff. The best prevention for lugging an engine (either old or new) is to downshift to a lower gear where the engine runs more freely, and the transmission assists the engine in delivering peak power to the rear wheel."
http://home.hamptonroads.com/stories...8031&ran=43046
probably not a good idea
From another web page:
"Lugging an engine means putting the engine under an extremely stressful load. A common way to lug an engine is to operate it at an extremely low rpm while the transmission is in a higher gear (for instance, leaving the transmission in fourth gear when it should be in second or third where engine speed is better matched to transmission speed). Lugging causes extreme stress between the rear thrust faces of each piston and the cylinder walls. Small bits of piston skirt can break away causing the rear surface to scuff. The best prevention for lugging an engine (either old or new) is to downshift to a lower gear where the engine runs more freely, and the transmission assists the engine in delivering peak power to the rear wheel."
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